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Rekluse or Revloc?

blumpkin

blumpkin

Joined Feb 2010
70 Posts | 0+
East Bay CA!
:?: Hi guys,

I'm thinking about an auto-clutch for my '10 FE450. I have never had one before, and I have only a couple of short rides on bikes that have had them. Sooo, I'm looking for some opinions, good points, bad points, etc... I am mostly interested in the "no stall" advantage these offer. I ride some pretty technical stuff from time to time, and while I usually make it, there are times when things just don't work out. 8O That's where I would like an auto clutch.
Any input is appreciated.

Blumpkin
 
I have a Rekluse on my KTM 200XCW and love it. Riding with it is almost like cheating! There is a bit of a learning curve - like when trialsing through a tricky turn, if you let the rpm drop too low the bike will stop; I have fallen over once or twice when that happened. The other issue is if you get stopped on a steep uphill the bike will roll backward and killing the engine doesn't help. I haven't bought one yet but a left-hand rear brake kit (replaces the clutch) works real good with either auto clutch and addresses the stopping on steep hills issue, along with making technical downhills easier, especially when standing. A friend of mine paralyzed below the knee on both legs has a Revloc on his 450 KTM and took the rear brake pedal off completely and runs the rear brake with the left hand only although originally the left lever was slaved to the rear master cylinder.

Bottom line - get either one and look into the left hand rear brake conversion. Once you get used to it you'll never want to go back.
 
I've got the Revloc Dyna ring. Works very well and retains all the feel in the clutch lever. I like it better than the Rekluse in my wifes TTR, and it does not freewheel unless you shut the engine off.
Still, if you stop on a hill, keep the bike running and apply a small amount of throttle to keep from going backward. BIt of a learning curve on that one!
 
Thanks,
I've been leaning toward the Revloc Dyna ring. I like the simplicity, and the price. It also seems to be an advantage that you could "bump" the bike if you needed to.

Blumpkin
 
i take it you can only bump start with the dyna ring if you have cable adjustment on a cable clutch?
bump start can't work with a hydraulic clutch? right?
..weed..
 
I happen to have seen it with my own eyes, You CAN bump start a 2010 Husaberg FE450 that is equipped with a Revloc Dyna ring. There is a small adjuster knob on top of the clutch master cylinder, just turn it until the clutch is engaged, and you have a manual clutch again. It seems pretty simple, and quite easy to install.

I'd really like more firsthand experience before I decide to purchase, but I might just have to "bite the bullet" and buy one and really see for myself.

Blumpkin :rock:
 
if the auto clutch used didn't have that feature it wouldn't be that hard Weed to make up a bolt or a screw and a thrust washer in the clutch cover to lock the clutch for emergency bumps

might be a bit awkwardsly with the riding boots though
 
bushmechanic said:
if the auto clutch used didn't have that feature it wouldn't be that hard Weed to make up a bolt or a screw and a thrust washer in the clutch cover to lock the clutch for emergency bumps

might be a bit awkwardly with the riding boots though
Click to expand...

It is difficult to visualize how this would work out in practice.
 
some bikes have the clutch pushing bit mounted on the clutch cover, it works the same as normally but the inner of the 2 pressure plates is pushed away from the clutch pack instead of the outer, eg rmx 250, ktm 65sx

you could use the same kind of setup to push the outer pressure plate toward the clutch pack and lock the clutch engaged,

would only have to be a thrust bearing, screw, lock nut and an o ring etc. I can't bump start my bike most of the time anyway beacuse of the sand so it doesn't bother me but if someone wanted to do it its possible.
 
Quick update on my quest for an auto clutch...
I called both companies, and I asked a few questions (to whoever answered the phone)
It sounds like the Revloc Dyna ring & Rekluse EXP work in nearly the same fashion... I don't know the specifics of each design, but they do essentially the same thing when installed. There are of course some relatively minor differences.
The biggest thing for me, is that the Revloc is adjustable for bump starting or minor tuning from the handle bar, whereas with the Rekluse, you must take the clutch cover off to adjust for bump starts... it may be a silly concern, but with all other things being equal. I decided to get a Revloc.
I'll let you know what I think after I get it installed.

Blumpkin
 
The Revloc Dyna Ring or the Rekluse EXP 2.0 should work fine on the 450, however I would be leery of using them on a 570 or larger engine due to the fact that one or two(?) fewer friction plates are used. I used the standard Revloc clutch in my '04 KTM 540 EXC which I then swapped to my '09 Beta 570 RS when I sold the KTM. The standard Revloc clutch does a superior job of harnessing the big bore torque.
 
what i would really like to know chas is,
say if i fitted the dyna ring to my 650,would the dyna ring be able to handle the power without actually destroying it? :roll:
if it wears the remaining clutch plates out a bit quicker than normal,then...so be it.that is expected.
in other words,if i had it installed & ride it as i normally do.i'm thinking, %95 of the time the clutch is not slipping,it will be locked out under power,so clutch plate wear should not really be an issue,but can a dyna ring handle say 60hp without imploding?
i can imagine going through a snotty tight rocky creek bed where it would be an advantage,instead of using first gear and trying not to blip the throttle,i would just click it into 2nd & let the dyna ring ride the clutch for me.
i could imagine starting off in 3rd gear & giving it handfuls of 650 would burn the plates out in no time.
that is not what i intend doing with it.
any comments?
..weed..
 
I think the problem with the bigger engine isnt the outright power but it makes more tourque and power lower down in the revs so getting enough RPM into the clutch pressure plate to create enough force to lock the clutch at low rpm is an issue.

there is a slightly different type of autoclutch, the EFM where they bolt the pressure plate to the basket sop it gets more force at lower revs than the revlock or rekluse.

theres a review and some pics on here somewhere, i'm testing one out soon so we'll find out if it slips :twisted:
 
any idea if that can be adjusted,so it does take up at lower rpm's,or it is what it is?
..weed..
 
AFAIK can be adjusted by adding tungsten balls to lower the engagement rpm same as the others but becasue the pressure plate rpm is allways the same as the clutch basket rpm it gets more force.

i reckon weed that any fool can tell if a clutch is slipping excessively, if the auto is slipping too much then it will burn out the plates, need to go lower gear and more rpm or make it lock up sooner by changing the design

I wonder though if a slipper clutch would be better for the big bikes
 
I know for a fact that the standard Revloc clutch (not the DynaRing) will effectively harness the power and torque of big bore bikes.

The primary method for changing the auto clutch engagement point is by decreasing or increasing spring tension on the clutch pressure plate to lower or raise the engagement point RPM. Note that all the balls in the Revloc clutch are tungsten.
 
It has been well documented that the standard Revloc auto clutch works well in all bikes up through the Husaberg 650. The standard (original) Rekluse auto clutch worked fine on up to 450 bikes but was borderline with KTM 525's. In fact, Rekluse would not knowingly sell a standard Rekluse clutch for use in the Husaberg 650.
 

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