Recommended maintenance after snow and rivers

I ride like you described regularly. If it was me, I'd make sure the oil and fluids have no discoloration like water got inside, other than that, clean the bike, check all of the nuts and bolts for tightness while cleaning, clean the airfilter, and clean and lube the chain. Then, I'd be ready to go ride again.

My experience is that the fork seal will start leaking and need replacement eventually, that's a good time to complete a full service on the forks, the rear shock is the same. Almost everyone her will cringe when I say that, but they are a bunch of old motocross/competition geeks. If I was racing the bike, I would service these items sooer too, but I'm riding thousands of miles yearly across the back country and then I ride my bike to work every day and this works for me. A blown rear shock or fork seal won't keep me from getting home.

Engine maintenance on the other hand is critical. I checked my valves at 500 miles, at 1500 miles, at 3500 miles, and am about to check them again at 6000. The valves once they seated at 500 have needed no further adjustment.

I change the oil every 12-1500 miles, and I know this is a lot further than the reccomended hours in the book. Well, with the synthetic oil, and a magnetic drain plug, my KTM 525 has 35,000 off road miles on the odometer with no engine failures and it still doesn't smoke or burn oil. I can't afford an oil change every week, so this is my schedule.

I would get a good chain and sprocket as soon as you wear the original trash out, SuperSprox makes a great set that gets a lifetime guarantee with the purchase.

Other than that, ride and enjoy, and pay attention to these sites, people will discuss little issues you might want to look at along the way.

I pull my axles and swing arm once a year and grease the axles, swing arm shaft and bearings the with high quality grease

Frank

As you are riding in snow and water I can recommend to grease in the axles with bushings and cover the wheel bearings with some grease. That will help to keep the water out. I check and if needed clean and re-grease it now and then.
I'm also very picky with my suspension so after I cleaned the bike I make sure no **** is stuck to the fork legs as that can dry up and later rip the bushings. I also spray WD40 on the chrome to protect it and I do a quick spray before I go next time to lube it up. If you have dry fork legs the first compression is dry meaning that you have higher friction which in the long run wear out the bushings. When the forks/shock has moved a few times the fork oil lubes everything. You dont need to go for expensive WD40, whatever cheap similar spray will do as the purpose is just to avoid that first dry compression. If make that into a routine your fork bushing will hold longer giving you less dirt inside, less oil leaks and less friction -> better operation.
After cleaning the bike I also like to blow away whatever water from the fuse-box and general electronics using compressed air and then spray some CRC or similar over it. Yes I am a bit picky when it comes to details like that but I'm sure it's good in the long run as we 70 degree owners are so dependent on the electronics.

Generally I would say use common sense. If it look like it needs some TLC give it

One thing I learned when I had my 45h service was that the needle bearings on the swingarm are dry. All the water and dirt had destroyed them and I needed professional help to squeeze them out. He put some heavy duty marine grease there to protect them and they have been fine since then. Maybe if you feel for it you can save you a future problem by checking and grease them up now before it's too late?

c337b said:

I pull my axles and swing arm once a year and grease the axles, swing arm shaft and bearings the with high quality grease.

Frank

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When I change tires or about once a year, I willa pull thein wheel seals, take dental pick and remove the wheel bearing seals and repack the wheel bearings. Still, I carry an extra set of wheel bearings. Was stranded once with a bad wheel bearing for quite a while. The rear wheel bearings on Husabergs and KTM's are undersized. If one goes out, I reccomend going with the MSR kit that has oversize bearings and a new crush tube.

After riding through a lot of water I always pull the axles and regrease them and pack abit more into the wheel bearings. If the water has been up over the engine I will do an oil change as condensation can form with the rapid cooling. (only takes a litre so good insurance) I also take the tires off if deep water rides as have found water gets inside the rims and starts rusting the spoke nipples, gets in somehow but doesn't seem to dry out by its self. If you have a cooling fan check inside the thermostat cover as water gets in here too and can pop the fuse. All fluids,(brake, clutch, forks and radiator change every year )Deep water is good riding past the carburetor bikes with breather tubes under water and air box flooded. Not a problem for the FE bergs.

if you do a lot of river crossing i would have a look at the head stock bearings once in a while. I've had to change mine because they seized from water damage. :cuss: