Rebuild 1997 FE600

You again?? haha just kidding Marcel, here is what i would recomend doing at the top of the list being the most important and getting less important farther down the list:

-connecting rod/pin/bearing-its going to be hard to find but definatly something you should do if going that far
-sealed cam bearings
-the starter sprague/rollers/needle bearings (assuming you have the electric start)
-piston and rings, head gasket
-main bearings
-valve seals, lap or replace valves
-timing chain
-all exterior seals
-clutch

check over very closely any interior seals and needle bearings on the transmission shafts and inside the clutch assembly, when i did mine i just replaced them all, if your going in as far as the connecting rod the rest may just as well be replaced too, youd hate to replace a few of the case bearings onyl then have one go out later IMO, when i did mine i replaced ev-re-thing just to be sure......

most all the bearings and seals have size indicators on them, the seals will be labeled something like 20x5x15 or something, that is their part number. the bearings of course will have a number style like 2306rs2 or something i think the info for the cam bearings is in the owners doc on which part number to get, i left both of my seals in, some people talk about removing one side or semthing but i didnt mess with it. For manuals, i used the 99 manual i think i found it online, it has the torque specs and almost all of the service/repair info is correct except that reguarding the stator info because the 99 has a different sytel than our old girls

ill try to dig up some p/n info for you later, i have the receipts for most all the parts i purchased still somewhere....i have been meaning to document all of the part info for later use ive just been lazy since my engine is running great, i wont need that info for another 800 engine hours or so i hope :lol:

I'm doing a 2000 FE600e right now. I'm able to deal with most things but the outside gear for the electric start has gone. luckily it was still 'sweet' inside.

regards

Taffy

I'd like to know the winner of the 3.30 at Haydock....before they run!

Taffy

Ok here is my list, I believe this list is missing one seal, the seal for the clutch side of the crankshaft isn't listed and I don't remember the size, it is an interior seal right behind the camshaft drive gear on the clutch side of the crankshaft, also may be missing one of the clutch bearings or needle cage, I remember I had to order that one later and I don't think I found the receipt for it so a very, very, close to complete list.....

1 x K20x24x10 Needle Roller Cage Assembly 20x24x10mm
1 x SKF NJ202ECP Single Row Cylindrical Roller Bearing 15x35x11mm
2 x SKF 62012RSHC3 Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 12x32x10mm (sealed cam bearings)
1 x SKF 61806 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 30x42x7mm
1 x SKF 6205C3 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 25x52x15mm
3 x SKF 6203C3 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm
1 x 30x42x7mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC
1 x K20x24x13 Needle Roller Cage Assembly 20x24x13mm
1 x SKF 6206ETN9C3 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 30x62x16mm
2 x HK1010 Drawn Cup Type Needle Roller Bearing With Two Open Ends 10x14x10mm
1 x K18x22x10 Needle Roller Cage Assembly 18x22x10mm
1 x K20x26x17 Needle Roller Cage Assembly 20x26x17mm
1 x 20x30x7mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal R23 / TC

2 x 3514597 BEARING-NEEDLE,22X26X13,SPLIT -this is off some kind of Polaris something or other, they are the split bearings on the gearbox shafts

2 x NJ205ECPC3-SKF
1 x CR 10X14X3 (HM4 R ?)
1 x CR12X22X6 (HMS5 V ?)
4 x 036 109 675 valve stem seals

I got the following items from taffmeisters.com

1 x 289050a gasket set note: do note use the base gasket if you don't already have one!!!!!!
2 x 0760101844 water pump seals
1 x 101006 kick start o-ring
2 x 0770010013 strainer long o-ring
2 x 0770191016 rocker end cap o-ring
1 x 0760304270 gearbox output seal
1 x 0770022016 gearbox output o-ring
2 x 0770291016 cam cap o-ring
1 x 100046 modified auto decomp (not completely necessary)
2 x 20001901 cam follower bearing - I didn't mention previously but these are critical to be replaced
1 x 80034007053 gear lever bushing
1 x 20007501 head gasket (doesn't come in the gasket kit)
2 x 0770380020 oil filter housing cap o-ring
1 x 23015801 modified sledge (this isn't completely necessary but I think it help me start it easier during kick starting)

A lot of the O-rings could probably be matched up locally but I figured instead of 20 trips to the hardware store I would just buy them all from taffy and save myself some time

I believe you can get a piston/ring kit from weisco for our bikes still, I was able to do a very light hone on my cylinder bore as it was in good condition but don't know what your going to find there until you disassemble but I would deffinatly expect some scuffing at the least maybe worse, replating would always be the best, maybe expensive out in the desert...
Check cam sprocket for wear, replace as needed, I stuck with the aluminum one just because I got a new one for free some step up to the steel cam sprocket but I know some machining modifications are required on our bikes to make that work.
as far as I know there aren't many differences from our bikes other than the starter gears as stuff but because of that there is probably an extra couple bearings and a needle bearing but I cannot be for sure, the best way to know would be to tear yours down first and compare you list to mine or else you will end up with a couple extra parts.
also some of the bearings I listed are not exactly the same number of parts I removed, all the part number I used were ones recommended by others, like adding the "c3" designation to the end of the number or adding the "rhs" to the camshaft bearings to get the ones with rubber seals or "etn9 c3" to add strength to the main bearings etc. etc...., remember bearings numbers are somewhat generic between manufactueres but some are brand specific I believe that my list is most all SKF bearing part numbers like the factory ones were, definalty use the highest quality brand as you can.... the bearing numbers I have are the upgraded numbers like those recommended in the owners doc and they may not be the exact same number of those in the bike currently. how to read and cross bearings numbers is a whole other lesson of its own for sure......if you wee to disassemble your engine and compare the numbers on your bearings to the numbers listed you will see the changes that have been made more clearly.....

I apologize for my delayed response but I hope it was worth the wait and helps.....

good luck my friend, be sure to ask if more questions, good luck finding a connecting rod kit too, maybe taff still has one around... :cheers: :cheers:

yes I still have one left.

this 2000 FC/FE600 I'm working on says '501' at the base of the cylinder and as usual there is no base gasket. the cam chain fits absolutely perfectly. but the piston is nearly 3mm from the head.

I've checked and if 1.75mm were to be machined off the barrel and the modified CCT blade were used the chain would be fine. the cam timing would need advancing. this would be a nice performance boost.

I have a rod kit left. just one!

the C to C on the 600 rod is 130mm but husky do a 132. it has a 22mm little end and it is 22mm wide and not 20 but it could be milled down. there is an after market rod listed by a chinese company and I beleive that there is a Ducati rod that is similar.

some lads in the village race ducati desmo singles and I'll ask them some time.

regarding stuff for these bikes, well I've always used posts here as my note book so I guess

note to self:
O rings same as later bar the disc covering the starter gear housing.
all gaskets available.
can now split crank succesfully.

unavailable as job went on:
rocker pins (I'm having some made)
kickstart bush - I will source these.
little end bush for the 400 (18mm) - I will soon source these
CFBs (I've found some)
Valves (grind down later ones)
headgaskets have stopped (KTM HG fit straight on)
rocker bushes (I have again found a new source)

that is about it.

regards

Taffy

this forum needs a thumbs-up smiley

hey no wait there is one!

:thumbleft:

Now let me ask ... Wasn't important to take info like this to the docs ???? Or is it so hard to understand ???
:cheers:

as Zaga also says: it would be nice to put this in the doc but you need to be clear that the 1997-2000 engine is separate and therefore to do it, it must be done well = lots of work.

as for your problem well, your bike never had a base gasket and that way the cam chain works well.

the piston is a long way from the top of the cylinder. you can take 2mm off the barrel and use a later cam chain tensioner blade to take up the slack of the chain.

the problem is keeping the coolant in. the cylinder studs are a lot longer than they are on the later bikes. try 30-50% longer and this causes expansion problems.

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

as Zaga also says: it would be nice to put this in the doc but you need to be clear that the 1997-2000 engine is separate and therefore to do it, it must be done well = lots of work.

Taffy

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"it must be done well" --- if you remember that is what I always tell you when we make new instructions

"=lots of work" --- that is why we put together a team, this is not our job (at least not mine)

:cheers:
ZAGA

Interesting stuff, and no doubt relevant if I ever get around to rebuilding my 98 501.

And Marcel, still want the big tank? Its still packaged and ready to go.

Bergini, do you know what seal/ bearing would be leaking on the right side of the bike? I removed the cover for the ignition system. I am currently waiting on an order for the flywheel puller. So I can't get any pics. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks.

elliot: if you are indeed "cool", try not to mix up yor questions in more than one thread.

Elliotisacoolguy said:

Bergini, do you know what seal/ bearing would be leaking on the right side of the bike? I removed the cover for the ignition system. I am currently waiting on an order for the flywheel puller. So I can't get any pics. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks.

Click to expand...

No clue!! im sure I left a flywheel puller in one of the boxes of husaberg spare parts I gave the kid that bought it, I would verify the stator bolts are tight, before you do that id also pull the bolts out and silicone the **** out of them and put them in, I had issues with them leaking previously, even when tight, they go through the engine into the case and would leak by the bolts......I know the seal size is printed onto the side of the seal so look at it closely, it will be listed in a 10x14x7 format (that's a random number not the seal number just for an example of what your looking for) then when you find that number you can google the number and youll find places with it for sale....but im putting my money on the bolts themselves just due to history...

elliot: if you are indeed "cool", try not to mix up yor questions in more than one thread.

Click to expand...

classic Ned, still busting the new guys balls and yet trying to be helpful at the same time I was going to post more info in the other thread then saw this one and decided to do it here, just to be one of those guys, your welcome

Thanks for the advice guys and sorry for the duplicate post. I have never been on a forum but I see how I could be confusing some people. Thanks for the help so far. I will get those bolts sealed and let you know what happens. Hopefully this bike will be back on the streets this week!