REALLY HARD TO UPSHIFT GEARS.

sounds like the common shifter problem i had. you will need to remove the clutch cover and examine the shift selectors in there. try not to remove the kick start mechanism as it is confusing the first time you have to put it back together.

the selector claw is prone to burring, and there is a bolt in there that comes loose too(main culprit, add red locktite). i am by no means a mechanical guru but i got it figured out so i would suggest that this is a job you can try yourself.

Have Fun
Jeff

miller said:

THANKS FOR THAT I HEARD THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WILL I NEED ANY GASKETS???

Click to expand...

i got away without it, just drain coolant+ oil, remove gear shifter and kickstart, then all the clutch cover bolts noting their home positions.

then carefully tap the cover off a little, if you are lucky it will peel away from one side most the way around. then you can use a razor blade to remove the gasket from the areas it is stuck. see how you go, you may need a new one as your bike is a couple of years old now.

when you refit the cover, you will need to apply some silicon to the problem area near the bottom front from memory, as it is common to leak from this point. i am sure someone who has done this a little mroe recently will be able to shed some light on this matter.

I found the workshop manual which you can download from this site or www.husaberg.de to be very useful.

Have Fun
Jeff

I just had that region of my bike apart a couple weeks ago, as jjw501 advised don't remove your kick starter shaft if you can help it. I did and didn't get it back together right the first time, my kickstarter would not return to the up position, so that took another hour and a half to figure out how the darn thing worked and to get it assembled. It didn't make for a relaxing evening, if you replace the gasket be sure to put a light layer of grease on both sides of the new one, I just use my fingers to apply it. That keeps the gasket from sticking to the case if you ever have to tear it apart again. Thats a little trick I learned from my local berg dealer. Good luck

Hi guys,
It sounds as if I may be having similar problems with my 2000 FC600.
I was out on the bike at the weekend at the local track & everything was running well, but when I took it out last night to give it a good clean (no time at the weekend!) it would not upshift or downshift out of 2nd gear.
It started easily enough and selected 1st and 2nd gears without a problem before sticking in 2nd.
I had to turn off the engine and get the bike back into neutral by hand (even this took a while).
The gear lever seemed to move up & down easily, but the gears would not 'snick' home.
Do you think this is the same problem as you gus are / have experienced?
Cheers,
Ross

there are so many small things that could go wrong that you need a shgeet of paper. run through the owners doc and you'll see details on :
binding selector plate
worn fork on the selector plate
loose spring tensioned 'star' roller


then we have
worn clutch drum
warped plates

then we have
hydraulic fluid goes AWOL

then finally we have
gearbox
chipped teeth
worn dogs
worn shims and washers

the list is endless.

regards

Taffy

I'm having the same problem only perhaps alittle further along. I'm stuck in 2nd gear and won't budge. when motor is running kicker moves back and forth. thought it was a problem like a bent shift fork, as it wasn't staying in 2nd or 3rd, but after talking to a dealer in michigan he told me about the burring of the shift mechanizm. haven't got that far yet draining the oil tonight gonna rip into her tomorrow after work. one question, jjw recomends draining the coolant, may I ask why? while i am down its been about 13 hrs since i adjusted the valves, so i am going to drain the radiator anyway, but just curious as to why the coolant needs drained to remove the clutch cover. gotta go now and read the owners docs.

On your 99 model the warter pump is driven off the cam in the head and you do not have to drain the coolant .On the 01 and up models the water pump is in the clutch cover.

osubuckeye said:

, so i am going to drain the radiator anyway, but just curious as to why the coolant needs drained to remove the clutch cover. gotta go now and read the owners docs.

Click to expand...

What year is your bike Bucky?
If your bike is 2000 or older, you won't need to drain the coolant (different and much simpler design). Hell, you won't even have to remove your exhaust!

Don't let Taffy scare you all. The number one reason for shifting woes is burring on the sliding plate of the shifting mechanism. File the burr and even buff it if you can. Shifting will be a joyous occasion and you'll even be able to find neutral!

log

i have a fe 501e 2000 model that did the same thing hard to find gears jumping out of gear. the problem was the bolt that holds the star plate on had come loose and bent the little roller guide. it was a easy fix but like the others say be careful of the kickstart can be frustrating. cheers flatchat

Problem solved!
It was the selector fork mechanism which had burred-up slightly as most of you guys stated.
I agree about not removing the kickstart mechanism - I never removed it while working on the selector forks, but it must have moved round slightly during re-assembly and would not budge once everything was back together.
Took it to bits , fixed it & it's now workin A-OK.
Cheers,
Ross

miller

did you mean that it jumps out of gear and that you can hear the teeth clatter etc. does it fall between 2nd and 3rd so when it's in neutral your not sure between which gears it has happened?

regards

Taffy

logjump said:

osubuckeye said:

,
The number one reason for shifting woes is burring on the sliding plate of the shifting mechanism. File the burr and even buff it if you can. Shifting will be a joyous occasion and you'll even be able to find neutral!

log

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Can anyone post a photo showing exactly what needs to be filed etc ?

I want to do this as preventative maintainence but have never had a Berg before and would like to know excatly what I should be doing before starting. I have an '07 FE650 Cheers

Hi Gazza,
Providing you're bike is shifting smoothly at the moment, I wouldn't bother taking it to bits to buff-down the sliding plate on the shift mechanism.
I think the burring must build-up over a period of time due to the action of the moving plate sliding over the fixed one, so you'll eventually get shifting problems after a period of time due to the burring, even if you buff down the plate while the bike is new.
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong!
Cheers,
Ross

ross

i would recommend doing it before it burrs up!

all you do is get a file and radius all edges and then finish with some emery cloth to tidy it up.

find a mention of it [http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php/Wear_items_amber_alert here] under amber in the doc.

regards

Taffy

Ross,
Glad you got it sorted. It's really cool when someone comes back to let us know things worked out!

Gazza,
Really haven't heard of this problem with the newer bikes. Not sure if the factory made improvements or not.
Look for pictures on this thread.
shifting mechanism
Look for the six pointed star shaped wheel. I'll call it a "star wheel".
The pronged plate behind the star wheel makes contact with the pins of the "star wheel" as it forces up or down on the pins while shifting. These pins eventually cause the pronged plate to swedge or "burr" out at the contact point. This is what needs to be filed or sanded and possibly buffed. The swedging of the pronged plate ends up interfering with the fixed plate behind it causing a bind, thus messing up the shifting process.

My buddy, Cheeseberger, has more than 5,000 miles on his 04' 550 and has never had this shifting problem so I'm not sure I'd want to tear into your new 07' and risk a leaking weep hole or something of that nature upon re-assembly. Just a thought. On the other hand, it could prove to be good preventative maintenance as taffy suggests.

log 8)