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Re:What is the right way to adjust the float height?

Joined Dec 2002
759 Posts | 0+
western NC
I know this may be a old hat for some of you but I have run in a problem.I have tried adjusting the the float level about all day and the results have either been flood or famine.I also checked in the service manual with no results.My question is how do you adjust to get the correct float height and what is it?Also what part of the float lever do you adjust?Hopefully I will have this thing running sometime.Thanks for the input. PS. the carb is a Dellorto VHSB 38mm.
 
ok

from memory

pull the carb float bowl off and lay the carb on the belmouth face. check that both floats look to be square and true and that one isn't buckled around. this should put the pivot pin for the float below the float. gently tap the float in until it starts to put pressure on the fuel valve (looks like a plumb bob) this is where, in a moment, you'll measure.

having done that you need to look at the flat 'base' on the underside (if it was stood normally) the nearest float and that flat base line should be parallell with the face that the floatbowl fixes to on the carb.
if the two aren't parallell you must remove the float by drawing the pin out of the pivot with pliers, and by holding the float still just bend the metal tab in the middle that fits the fuel valve. best done where you can hold everything down bar the tab so as to isolate your actions.

double check the floats being parallell and then check with the carb on it's face again.

then reverse fit, get a big station wagon and tow start the bloody thing!

Taffy
 
wildbill,

Taffy's explanation covers partly the procedure required when you have connected floats (i.e. the floats don't come with the float bowl when you remove it :wink: ) and the thing is you can get the same Dellorto models with connected or disconnected floats.

If your carb has connected floats you need the Dellorto specified measurement as, for example, on the PH series carbs the correct measurement is anything from 15.5mm to 24.5mm. With connected floats you would follow Taffy's procedure but measure the distance between the face of the carb and the bottom of the float as it lies on the bellmouth side. Sorry, I don't have those for the VHSA/B

If you have disconnected floats life is a lot simpler and you merely lay the carb upside down and make sure the arms are parallel to the carb body.

You should also check the operation of the float valve just in case this is sticking and causing problems.

Hope this helps,
Simon
 
well said simon and i, like you, couldn't find numbers for the float to carb body but parallell is the rule anyway.

Taffy
 
she is running now

I got it running this evening right before dark.I managed to set my idle and then rode it around just a little,cut it off and it restarted on the 2nd kick.I will ride some tomorrow to make sure everything is right.Thanks for all the help.
 
Bill, that's great news. Look forward to hearing a ride report from you tomorrow :)

thanks,
json
 
schwim said:
Bill, that's great news. Look forward to hearing a ride report from you tomorrow :)

thanks,
json
I have rode the bike roughly 3 times,have done 2 oil changes and cleaned the oil filter twice.The second time I changed the oil there was very little metal and it was on the oil drain plug.I think it might be broke in now.Power wise this motor makes my old one look very weak usually can run at least a gear higher,in first or second gear can yank the throttle open and the front end will come up very quick.The down side is,I can`t start the bike unless I have my right foot on top of a milkcrate,like that hot or cold.The kickstarter sometimes does not return when I kick it and other times the kickstarter will not budge.I`am hoping it is just have not had time to break in yet.Other than that the bike is very strong.Once I can start it consistent without a crate I will be very happy.Starting is the only problem I have now.Thanks
 
Wildbill,

Sounds almost exactly like the problem I was having with my '02 550. If you read the link json provided you will get a better explanation of what I was experiencing. The only problem though was that I never found out what was causing the issue. Wish I could be of more help but it does sound like something to do with the decomp mechanism. I had every other bit and piece aligned with the stars and planets, checked and double checked, and the decomp was the only thing I had never messed with as I was unfamilure with it and did not want to open a can of worms. Hopefully your luck will be as good or better than mine and it will "snap" out of it. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Best of luck,
Sandskipper
 
Thanks.I checked a few things today.I removed the sparkplug and then turned the engine over with the kickstarter.It turns over but not as easy as it should.The only thing I know is leave it alone and maybe it will straighten itself out in time.The engine at most might have a hour on it so I think it is just part of it breaking in.I`am like you I don`t want to open a can of worms.I looked in the service manual some time ago at the kickstart part,looks to much like the inside of a clock and I never was any good fixing clocks.I will just have to wait and see if it cures itself.Now I just have to figure out a way to carry a milkcrate :lol: .Thanks
 
needle valve spring

When adjusting float height on the Dell-Orto with the two floats attached in the bowl, it is said to look for parallel between the arm and the mating surface of the bowl. Within the needle valve is a spring, do you check for parallelism with the spring free standing or do you compress the needle spring and check for parallel?

thanks,

Mark Piechowski
 
thanks Joe,

The arms were not paralell either way, I set them strait, now we will see if it makes a difference in the running.

thanks,

Mark Piechowski
 

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