please please please help the noob!!!

Hi everyone!
I am new to the site and recently purchased my first husaberg and it has had a problem since I bought it 2 weeks and still have not gotten to feel the power and its really bumming me out any help would be really appreciated!!!!!

I am really sorry this is so long just wanted to get everything a know and don't out there! Thanks guys!

To start the story from the top, I just purchased a Husaberg 1997 fe600e, when I bought the bike it ran like crap and still does, my friend also rode it right after me and said it was great so I bought it, lol, thanks buddy!, got home and same thing immediately again every time, basically the bike starts great (with electric start, haven’t really tried to figure out the kick start) and seems to idle pretty good, on very light acceleration it is ok with just a little occasional misfire feeling blip here and there, on medium or hard acceleration its ok at the bottom of the gear and has torque for faster take off but then in the middle of the gear 4000 rpm? It starts spitting and sputtering, still accelerating when not misfiring, and seems to top out at maybe 5000-6000 rpm will just not go a higher engine speed like the power band goes flat. Seems to be worse in first three gears, still felt in higher gears but not as bad usually just feels like a misfire. Happens hot or cold, I have noticed I do not need to choke it to get to start immediately @ 70 deg F low humidity?

I was told that the bike has less then 3000 miles on it, was initially purchased by a 50 year old guy who used it for trail riding and was the guy I bought it from, he said the fuel was a year old or so, I know he had the engine apart to "check everything" but everything looked good and was put back together with new gaskets, which was done 4-5 years ago and hasn’t really been driven much since, at least not driven hard at all he said he never knew there was any problems with it because he short shifted it everywhere but has only been a few hundred miles. It has a dellorto Phm 40mm carburetor that is completely factory settings and jets. The valves were adjusted when all apart as well.

So far what I have done to try and remedy the problem is remove and disassemble carburetor and soak in chemical for 48 hours and blew out and reassembled, and rechecked it multiple times, changed spark plug, have richened and leaned carb slightly with screws and by moving the needle clip up or down one, engine feels like it goes rich then lean but problem still there, air filters are clean, set the stator timing like the manual says (it was turned all the way clockwise but the book says to loosen screws and turn anticlockwise) still the same! it has new fuel and cleaned tank, I cleaned out the pump and verified its operation/check valves, the carb to engine mounting boot is new, continuity through the plug wire and 5000 ohm connector was 5.032 kohms and if the connector is removed it will jump a gap of 10-12mm w/electric start, I have cleaned ground connections by coil and by battery, unplugged and checked all connections. Changed oil and filter and installed another new plug.

I compared spark to my friends Honda 400ex atv (I know completely different) his ignition coil would jump my automotive style hei spark plug tester without cheating, if I test my bike without the connector it randomly jumps it but will do nothing with connector on unless I make the gap less with a paper clip, with connector on HT lead and spark plug grounding to head bolt it sparks nice and white.
After an 8 mile loop and putting in a new spark plug just before leaving it looks to be just a little sooty or dark on the plug it not wet though just a little dark and sooty looking?

I have a 1999 service manual that mentions a reed valve? I am unsure if the 1997 has reed valves or not but I do notice a little fuel residue in the precarb boot and frame channels by air filters?

After doing everything I was thinking maybe cdi coil not advancing timing or causing misfire? After reading a ton of posts I decided to ohm check the stator coil just to see, my readings were 1.807 kohms on red and black, 20.6 ohms black to green and also checked green to red and got 1.826 Kohms? 0.0 ohms on the two yellows and unsure of what the blue wire coming out does!

I am just plain out of ideas, my wife is just about to pop out our second child and I just don’t have time for this but it kills me to see it sit, I just wanna ride in my spare time and get it road ready, and don’t have the money to throw parts at it and the old lady will be banning me from the shop here soon i am sure!

I really appreciate any responses or ideas!

I also forgot to mention I ran a compression test consistanlty at 150 psi, also tried doing a cylinder leakage test but it wont hold more than 20psi without spinning over the cylinder going clockwise. I am an automotive technician and i guess the only experience that i have performing a cylinder leakage test is on a car with more than one cylinder and it wont spin the engine over even at 100 psi or higher but of course there is more cylinders that still have plugs and compression in the not affected cylinders, is this normal for it to want to spin off top dead center like this?
My stumble on acceleration/misfire problem seems to be timing related to me? due to the very low top end rpms that it can reach and low top speed, i didnt think it would be possible for it to even run if it was off like a car could because of multiple cylinders on a car, but maybe it can because of the large camshaft duration overlap time?

The guy i bought it from did have it completely apart and it wouldnt totally surprise me if it were off a tooth, i noticed the gasket on the timing chain tensioner is crooked so only the top bolt is going through the gasket and the lower one missed completely, if that was screwed up who knows about something like actual timing.

thanks again guys for the help!!

Thanks guys for the responces, i have read a bunch of posts about the sem stators and the lower voltage reading i got was 20.6 with the spec i found in the fourms at 23 ohm+-10% and minus 10% is 20.7 so it knew it was border line and was suspiscious due to there reputation on here, i guess most of the guys problems on the posts i saw were with no spark at all and i wasnt sure if they would cause this bad of a driveability problem, it will definatly crap out at wide open, the lest throttle i give it the better acceleration i get

I knew Taffy would be an option, I see he has three of them on ebay! If thats not him anyway someone has stolen his name.
Taffy, what exactly does mk1 or mk3mean? the one one mine looks like the one you have on there right now but is listed for a different year, is your ebay pricing about the normal price for a stator rebuild?
LOL, I am about tapped out with just buying this bike and the new kid about here and whatnot! guess the bike may just have to sit a couple weeks at least its better than replacing the cam chain or something!

just want to run my last series of tests past everyone and see if they are still thinking stator or something else? i am just gonna start throwing parts at it soon as i get some money i think just want to be most educated as to what i try first, i am on a small/negative budget!

i did try running it on full choke and it spits and sputters significantly worse with choke on and the jet needle in stock position, after i had soaked the carb i blew out all the channels and i beileive the air circuit you are talking about are the two holes at the bottom of the inlet side of carb that run though it, i did blow these out specifically and blocked off where it was coming from to make sure that all the channels were clear because i think they both go in and split, blew through all the passages over and over for half and hour and then while assembling, everything in carb as far as i can tell is beautiful and it was pretty clean originally.

the bike starts fine, idles good, ok or good low end power, seems to cut out from the start of mid range of rpm band and higher if opened 1/2-3/4 throttle fom the start, if accelerating slower maybe opened only 1/2 throttle or so from the start it will take a little longer like 1/2 way through before it starts cutting out, if wide open from the start it will also seem to start it at seemingly very low 3000-3500 rpm?

i did check the valves and looked at springs and rockers as good as possible and everything seemed ok, the valves were too tight, there was no slack in the tappets, i readjusted to spec. also pulled timing chain tensioner for inspection and it has alot of adjustment left it is maybe 1/4-1/3 used up, was only six clicks out. significantly less then half way out for sure

to know if i was running rich or leak, 1st off i went to extremes and raised needle one position so would be rich, drove it short distance just felt boggy and doggy before misfire started in, lowered needle one position and drover short distance, and felt lean like it wanted more and then misfire thing still started at same rpm/time in powerband, both above things were driven a very short distance, like less than 1/4 mile.
and also with jet needle in stock position i went out with the fuel screw up to 3.5 turns or so in half inch increments and once even in a little farther in like down to 1/2 turn out.
everytime i make a carb adjustment i feel it in performance but power loss/misfire? still happens at around same time/rpm in powerband

i put a timing light on it and it seems to be in spec at idle 5-6 degrees bdc and if opening the throttle slightly it does advance but doesnt seem to get all the way to 33 degrees, maybe 1.5 cm away from 33 degrees bdc, i think i read in another post that these were the specs anyways, i cant even remember what was what anymore after reading so much, my timing light has a nob that goes from 0 to 60 degrees advanced

any ways i think i have eliminated the carb by running all these different tests? everything mechanical in valvetrain seems ok and the timing chain doesnt seem worn and i think adjusted ok. in all my findings i have to beleive either the stator or cdi coil is bad and due to the issues with stators i am kind of leaking that way, any other ides of things to check or test to run to help verify this or anything else i can eliminate before i get the stator done?

thanks guys for the help
any and all coments appreciated!!

Taffy,
my flywheel is outside of the stator, first you remove the plastic startor cover with three bolts, then you use the special 26X1.5 flywheel puller, remove the flywheel and then the stator is bolted down to engine case with 3 bolts.
is there another tast i can run on this other than an ohm test? can i measure running voltage or anything unsure what kind of voltage out i should see, ac voltage? dc voltage? specs?

bergini

I know i read in another post that it is possible to be one tooth off and the valves still not contact piston, is it possible for the engine to run like this?
Or are you thinking possibly just not put back together properly like cam sprocket was rotated or holes elongated or otherwise? I too feel like the timing is incorrect in one way, shape, or form. i know i read about the dead stop method but did not fully get it, ill go back through when i get more time later and can have the bike next to me, like i said in previous post the guy did have it completely apart and i did find a couple things that make me question his abilities as far as completely dissassembling and reassembling and engine, would not be surprised if something is off, i still dont know why for sure he took it all down and he still wont tell me if problem started right after or not
thanks taffy, ill keep you posted

I ordered a new gasket kit for the carburetor with a new needle and needle jet but it isnt goign to fix the problem,
i think i got it fixed, have to test drive later tonight to confirm, but if this wasnt the problem i am gonna take a break from working on it for a few weeks till my parts come in! i cant tak it anymore lol!

ok i had verified that the marks on the flywheel that the other guy made were correctly timeed with tdc and had taking readings with timing light and adjusted so was correct, still just felt like timing was not accurate, i should have just done this when i adjusted the valves but anyway, pulled cylinder head cover and found that the camshaft timing was one tooth off! cant beleive it ran as good as it did like that! anyways i verified ignition timing still in spec and readjusted valves, feels a little better at idle and when revved at idle doesnt cut out like it used to, guess we will find out on road test when i am done with work but i am sure it will be good to go!

thanks for the advise guys!

anybody have any thoughts about running an engine out of time like that? supposedly it was torn down and put back together a few years ago and has not been driven very much at all since and not driven hard enough to even know the problem was there (which i find hard to beleive due to the low rpm it started at)
can i expect other problems from this? seems to be ok now so far?

happy to report all is well after test drive, camshaft timing definatly the problem, camshaft one tooth off making the point of ignition in the cylinder closer to 15-20 degrees? maximum advance but still showing proper ignition timing with timing light, just some minor tuning and adjusting and will be good to go, does seem a bit rattly in the top end of engine, guess i will have to recheck valve adjustment asap but its all down hill from here. pulls hard, lots of top end power
thanks again guys for all the advice
special thanks to Taffy, a guy who sells stators tells me he's not convinced it was a stator....main reason i went further into engine, with the known problems with them i was about to send it out! If i ever need one i know who to call