Here's some pictures of my pipe after ceramic coating from Precision Powder Coating in Virginia Beach, VA. Cost me $85 but I wanted it fast.
Which stats would you like to know? Just got it back and haven't mounted it up yet. Waiting for the header wrap as I'm going to do both to insure I don't DNF any more events.
I assumed that you had the pipe coated to reduce radiant heat. So I was wondering what the coating company you used said their coating would do
Pipes look great
I've wrapped all my four stroke pipes for reduced heat and protection, works great
Wrapping the pipe does cause it to tarnish bad
Let us know what the coated pipes look like after a few months
I've wrapped all my four stroke pipes for reduced heat and protection, works great
Wrapping the pipe does cause it to tarnish bad
Let us know what the coated pipes look like after a few months
I have a set of headers Jet Hot ceramic coated on a 514 Ford I built and using an infrared heat gun the header temps dropped from about 500 degrees to 280. Sold me!
Well, it seems like it hasn't solved my problem. I coated the header and mid-pipe and also installed a CV4 blanket under the tank. Well, was charging in my race Sunday and was closing on second when the bike died again. Blew the fuse again for the fuel pump. The fuel was boiling again. I have been through all the wires and there's nothing cut, rubbing or even scratched. My next thought is maybe the fuel pump itself has an issue.
After the bike died, I sat down for awhile and waited for a sweep rider. The sweep rider went to my pits and retrieved a few more fuses for me since I had blown through the three spares I had. I rode the bike back to the pits on fire roads at a decent speed so the bike was getting plenty of air. After sitting and cooling off and then getting changed, I hit the tank under the seat with an IR temp reader. The fuel tank was at 200f. I wonder if the fuel pump itself is overheating and causing the problem. We'll see.
After the bike died, I sat down for awhile and waited for a sweep rider. The sweep rider went to my pits and retrieved a few more fuses for me since I had blown through the three spares I had. I rode the bike back to the pits on fire roads at a decent speed so the bike was getting plenty of air. After sitting and cooling off and then getting changed, I hit the tank under the seat with an IR temp reader. The fuel tank was at 200f. I wonder if the fuel pump itself is overheating and causing the problem. We'll see.
Have you checked the fuel pressure?
If the pressure regulator is messed up and it is causing too high fuel pressure it could be overloading the fuel pump.
Or.
Have you checked the in tank filters? If the in line filter is clogged this could also raise the pressure really high putting too much load on the fuel pump.
Or.
Have you pulled the fuel pump itself to make sure that it is seated in the holder correctly?
Is there anything else that is fed from that particular fuse?
If the pressure regulator is messed up and it is causing too high fuel pressure it could be overloading the fuel pump.
Or.
Have you checked the in tank filters? If the in line filter is clogged this could also raise the pressure really high putting too much load on the fuel pump.
Or.
Have you pulled the fuel pump itself to make sure that it is seated in the holder correctly?
Is there anything else that is fed from that particular fuse?
DaleEO said:
Fuel Pump Fuse is solely for the Fuel Pump. Takes this path:
12 Volt direct from the Battery via 20Amp Fuse in the Starter Relay.
Fuse 2.
Black/Blue Wire to Pin 14 on EFI Computer.
Pin 15 EFI Computer to Fuel Pump. Not sure of the wire color. Diagram says Blue/Green, but the picture looks Blue/Grey. It also looks to be Blue/Grey maybe Blue/White on the bike.
The Brown Wire out of the Fuel pump goes straight to Earth.
Time to put that bike on the Dyno with an Air Fuel Ratio meter to see if it is running lean.
Like Dale said, Fuel Pressure Check is a good idea.
I can only guess the Fuel pump is faulty or the regulator is faulty if it is blowing fuses.
The EFI Computer uses TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) for the Fuel Mapping "somewhere" off idle to WOT, so are you sure your TPS has not come loose and moved and things are running lean and hot?
Muffler not blocked with something?
It's just coated with ceramic. That is the color of ceramic coating this company uses.
Well, believe I have found the problem. I've been on the phone with some contacts from Husaberg. I had previously checked the wiring harness as thoroughly as I could. After speaking to them, I was advised several areas to pay special attention to on the harness. In the area under the tank on top of the engine cases I saw the metal had been rubbed shiny. I looked really closely at the harness with a bright flashlight and found a very, very small slice. After opening up the harness, I found the blue/silver wire had been grounding on the engine case.
View from the top down in the area where the loom rubbed.
You can see the rub marks on the top of the engine cases
View of the micro slit on the wiring harness
If you look close, you can see the wiring insulation is discolored and you can see the bare wire.
View from the top down in the area where the loom rubbed.
You can see the rub marks on the top of the engine cases
View of the micro slit on the wiring harness
If you look close, you can see the wiring insulation is discolored and you can see the bare wire.
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