This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Parts on the magnet

O

OldNewbie

Joined Jun 2010
216 Posts | 0+
Anderson, Indiana, USA
Drained my oil, engine has 11.5 hours on it, found pieces of a tiny spring on the magnet. It's probably 0.5 mm diameter and was maybe 20mm long or more.

I've studied the parts manual, and I believe it can't be anything other than the tension spring for a valve seal.

Things could certainly be worse, but I didn't plan on going into the engine quite this soon.

Any harm in running it this way? I have a big ride planned this weekend. I can't see how it would hurt anything, but I don't want to cause serious damage.

I can tear into it when I get back, was about ready to put it away for the winter anyway.
 
Right now it doesn't sound like you have any engine damage but running it any longer could result in some significant problem developing. There may be more loose pieces floating around that the magnet hasn't caught yet and if they end up in the wrong place could cause an expensive failure. If that were to happen you would really kick yourself for riding it.

Just my thoughts.

Randy
 
could be valve seal but you also have springs around the back of the crank seal in the left cover, water pump seal, the crank seals themselves, so it's not cut 'n dried what you have wrong.

regards

Taffy
 
OK, good advice, guys. Looks like I'll take the Rubicon on my trip north and maybe do some 4 wheeling instead.
 
No doubt I need to tear it down, split the cases, and

1. Find out what failed and fix it
2. Find all the rest of the pieces and clean them away
3. Make sure all oil passages are clear

My concern is that I'll have to send the crank assembly away to have it broken down in order to clean out the lubrication passages.

However, since the oil that is pumped to the engine goes through the screen, then the filter, no pieces would be able to make it into the passages, is this correct? The screen and filter were intact.

Is #3 above a valid concern?
 
an '07 with 11.5 hrs?
the most i would do is pull the top cover, look at the valveguide seals, inspect the rocker bearings, readjust the valves, and ride. prolly in reality, i'd just ride.
that's why there are oil screens and filters
 
You're probably right, but I don't want to ruin a new engine, and I don't want to wonder if and when I'll be stranded 30 miles from nowhere.

There's a seal failed in there somewhere, I will at least get that fixed and clean out the cases, find out if anything else is damaged.

Gonna start on it tomorrow, I'll let you know what I find.
 
i understand. i actually put an alarm system on my garage when my 98 600 was new. these bikes make you do strange things
 
I've thought about doing that same thing (alarm).

It's always best to control the things you can.

On the other hand, if I leave it to chance, odds are it will be OK, and what's the worst that can happen? The engine gets damaged, and I have to pull it and tear it down. Same place I'm at now anyway.

The only thing I'm saving by this pre-emptive teardown is the price of parts that might get damaged by a tiny piece of spring steel.

Haven't started yet, I've been ill over the weekend, didn't take my trip, but feel great today and have 2 days vacation that were supposed to be for my trip.
 
Engine's out, all four valve seals have their springs on.

To remove any other seals, looks to me like the cases should be split.

Engine's going to Columbus tomorrow to a dealer.
 
You know, I could buy all the special tools for a lot less than I'll pay these guys to do this work.
 
I think that all the specialty tools you would need is a correct flywheel puller and a case splitting tool - Motion Pro makes a great one that I've considered but yet to have bought (I use a home made one I originally made for working on Swedish-built Husqvarnas years ago) that is fully adjustable and will work on virtually all motors. I almost forgot, but it is much easier to remove/install the cam chain if you have one of the heavy-duty chain tools that is also made by Motion Pro ($90 well spent). It is possible to do it without one but it is a 2-person job to install the connector link and flare the ends. Husaberg motors are quite simple to work on as long as you are familiar with the insides of motorcycle engines and have a shop manual which, if you don't have one, can be downloaded from http://www.husaberg.com/Downloads.33.8.html.
 
Hi, Preety sure what the problem is it happened to me if you take your clutch cover off and look under the primary gear you will see the crankshaft seal it might off poped out slighty hence gone squed and the spring has broken on the seal and all the bits of spring have gone to ur magnet .dont worry no damage because it hasnt gone through your mesh filter or filter.Just make sure you put the primary gear in the same position. Also if it is the seal on that side i put some locktite on the seal so it cant do it again.If it isnt the main seal on that side it will be the main seal on your stator side.Just a word of advice to replace your waterpump seal on your clutch cover while you have it off and buy a weephole kit to stop that annoying oil leak coming out of the weephole for good send me a reply if you want it and ill tell you where to get it from.
 
Thanks, all. I feel like a bit of a wuss for taking it to the dealer, and I'll not be happy about the bill, either.

I'm just tired of working, that's all I freaking do. This was to be my toy, not one more headache. Got it in July, have only put 11 hours on it.

Anyway, I copped out, the dealer in columbus has the engine. It will be at least $500 to get it fixed, but I should have a good engine.

I got a deal on the bike, so I'm not hurt too much by it, and this was the risk I took.

There are 5 places with seals that have the spring: valve stems, crankshaft, kick starter, shifter, and counter shaft. Could be any, but it's not the valves, I checked those. It went into the case, and I'm certain no piece could have gotten into the passages, or even to the oil pump.
 
Just talked to the shop.

One of the main crankshaft seals came out of the case. The metal seal body was rubber-coated, and it just came loose and was rattling around getting chewed up. That explains all the black rubber particles on the screen, and explains why I've seen so much metal shavings on the plug and screen. I thought it was a little heavy, even for break-in.

2 hours labor and a seal, and it's ready to go.

Back to columbus, if I leave at 5 am or so I can be there when they open and have it in tomorrow evening.

I'll have 14 hours driving time in the two round trips to the dealer. I've only put 10 hours on the bike!!!
 
Do you know if he put a bit of locktite on the seal because chances are it will do it again.
You will know anyway when you check your sump plug .
 
Yup, I picked it up on the 20th and had it going the next day.

I hope the mechanic put loctite on! If it happens again I will do it myself.
 
That seal is to keep clutch / gear oil off the ball bearing. The bearing wants only nice, filtered oil. Clearances in ball bearings are very small, and they don't do well with dirt.
 

Similar threads

K
AM fuel pump parts sourcing problems
Replies
1
Views
1K
o6550
o6550
2ndGen
570 longevity question...
Replies
6
Views
2K
2ndGen
2ndGen
J
Help. Oil pressure relief spring & bearing
Replies
2
Views
3K
johnb
J
C
For Sale For Sale: 2008 FE 550 - Restored and Adventure-ready
Replies
1
Views
663
canadius
C
C
For Sale: 2008 FE 550 - Restored and Adventure-ready
Replies
0
Views
2K
canadius
C

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions