I didn't like Berg (or KTM690) OEM key.
The whole idea of changing map according to the terrain is great, but if you need to stop, to remove gloves, to remove the rubber cup, to twist the base, to rotate it to the map you want, to put back the rubber cup and to put back the gloves...you got the point.
I measured the key resistance. Was 15K in map 1 and 6.8K in map 2, and open circuit at map 0.
I bought std. SPDT SW from Radio Shack, and the correct resistor.
Some simple soldering and the switch was ready. Then I reinforced it with epoxy to protect the resistors.
Since I couldn't find the female connector to mach the OEM key, I took simple male-female connectors, sealed them, and install it instead of the OEM one on the wiring harness. Worse case I will connect it back, no big deal.
It might not look very pretty, but it super functional, and cost the fraction of the OEM key...
ccasion5:
The whole idea of changing map according to the terrain is great, but if you need to stop, to remove gloves, to remove the rubber cup, to twist the base, to rotate it to the map you want, to put back the rubber cup and to put back the gloves...you got the point.
I measured the key resistance. Was 15K in map 1 and 6.8K in map 2, and open circuit at map 0.
I bought std. SPDT SW from Radio Shack, and the correct resistor.
Some simple soldering and the switch was ready. Then I reinforced it with epoxy to protect the resistors.
Since I couldn't find the female connector to mach the OEM key, I took simple male-female connectors, sealed them, and install it instead of the OEM one on the wiring harness. Worse case I will connect it back, no big deal.
It might not look very pretty, but it super functional, and cost the fraction of the OEM key...
ccasion5: