sickd said:
IF YOUR SCARED TO USE A NON JASO OIL SUCH AS DELO 400.. THIS WILL EASE YOUR MIND
read this and especially the parts
JASO CERTIFIED;
CHOOSING OIL FOR YOUR MOTORBIKE
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
basically says less zinc may cause your clutch to slip and act out MAY, so try it and if its good use it, will not do anything for engine life just effect your clutch Maybe (slipping)
Respectfully submitted,
From the article you linked.....
"In fact, the JASO spec is mostly a reaction to the decrease in zinc-phosphates in SJ and SL oils,
and the added molybdenum disulfide in energy conserving oils. Personally, I don't care about JASO standards - they're really not on my radar."
It is in fact the addition of the friction modifiers that concerns wet clutches. The main additive that will lead to clutch problems is Molybdenumdisulfide, or Moly as it is typically called. Moly is an extremely slippery substance, especially when put under extreme pressure. While you may not have a problem with your clutch initially, who knows maybe never, over time the moly will impregnate itself into the clutch material, and will make your clutch slip. Moly has another interesting nasty habit that the author fails to talk about, that once Moly comes under heat and pressure and is then exposed to moisture it will combine with moisture and form an acid, I believe Sulfuric Acid if memory serves. I have had a good deal of experience using moly, as I used to coat my bullets with moly, with the supposed advantages of less barrel fouling and longer barrel service life, and less cleaning. In practice however there were several drawbacks, the first noticeable drawback was a roughly 200 feet per second drop in muzzle velocity caused by the bullet moving so easily through the barrel, and consequently, lower chamber and barrel pressures, resulting lower fps, so one had to increase their powder charge. The second was this formation of acid in the barrel after shooting, IF the barrel was not at the very least coated with a light oil such as Kroil. There were unfortunately some shooters with the thought in mind that cleaning was not required as frequently and had been out shooting some rounds and left their guns un cleaned, and over time the accuracy of their weapons dropped off. After a thorough cleaning of the barrel and barrel scoping, it was found that the barrel was indeed pitted, or acid etched. No it wasn't me thank goodness, but, I have long since left moly coating of bullets behind.
And as most folks know, anytime you burn hydrocarbons, moisture will form. In an engine application, there are other oil components present to keep this acidic action from happening, but, thought you all might find it interesting non the less.
Honda motor oils, especially those used in the divorced transmissions of the CRF, contain quite a bit of Moly. Again, Moly is an excellent friction modifier, but, this oil is NOT used in the transmission area where the wet clutch is.
Again from the article:
"There are a few special problem areas for motorcycle oil. Most motorcycles have wet clutches, which means the motor oil runs through the clutch. If the motor oil has too much molybdenum in it, there are fears that the clutch can start slipping. No one I know has ever actually had this happen to them, but the warnings are all over your owners' manual and the oil companies' web pages. On the back of all certified oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle."
DELO used to be a great oil for our bikes, however the addition of Moly (about 200ppm) several years back put it into the category of don't use on a wet clutch. And in further reference to the article, while DELO may not be JASO certified it is API CI-4 PLUS certified.
