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Oil Leak in Top End

wpeteman

wpeteman

Joined Aug 2006
2 Posts | 0+
Great Northwest
My 2002 FX470e is leaking a little oil out the top end. With the bike running a little bit of oil is bubleing/seeping out. My question is, do you think I should just re-torque the bolts on top or replace the head gasket???? or can I just leave it be? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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they all do it on the front left corner i'm afraid!

people have tried many thingas and a well cleaned and prepared surface covered in wurths webasto silicon sealant is considered the best stuff to use. put it on the cover and not the head.

also check that the breather tube is tight - they're all lose.

and look for a split in the engine breathger - they really can't hack it!

regards

Taffy
 
From the photo's the oil appears to be coming from above the area your indicating, take the tank off and have a look at the breather hose as Taffy has stated they come loose and some do split.
 
I too would suggest taking a look at the breather hose. I've found that if you tighten them too much you damage them, tighten them too little and they'll leak. It's a bit of a catch 22....
 
I use loctite 510, 518 or 515, though 518 is best

just make sure to put a bead over the bearings as well. some people have concerns the bearings can spin because the loctite cures as you tighten the cover down and cures thicker than the silicone.

dries imediately, no residue no leaks easy to clean off and beats silicone gunk everywhere (for me anyway)
 
I agree with Bushie..... 518 loctite is the stuff to use. It only cures were it has no oxygen thus wont set on inside of motor and wipes off the outside real easy (if you happen to be one of those people that use too much product).
Silicone on the other hand does set and perchance some set silicone drops off inside your motor the results can be undesirable.
I must have got a good motor as I dont get oil leaks (except the water pump hole, from new..... 10000k's and its no worse) but then i am very careful with surface prep and use an excellent product (sparingly).
My breather split around 130hrs old.
I did find some small air holes in the casting whilst cleaning up the castings but nothing that looked like it was porous.
Synthetic oils seem to find any little gaps easier than minerals.
my coupla sense worth.
 
Do you have to drain coolant to do this?

Can you leave the valve covers on to take this 'cap' off to do the sealant?[/quote]
No
Yes (unless valve covers interfere with the frame)
 
Anything special I have to do when I do this? I assume I just remove the tank, the breather hose, I guess I have to disconnect the decompression from the outside? That is the only thing really that concerns me.
 
Bad News. Took the cap off and silicon reseal it up. Everything looks fine. The bike has 80+ hours Ive never checked the valves so I tried to do this and it would seem that they are a bit tight on the feeler side (occording to the correct specs) so I try to loosen them up, I put it all back together. Now it would NOT turn over with the electric start. Does part of a revolution and you can tell some thing is halting the starter up, never had this problem before. I know the battery and starter are good. I dont think the decompression lever is right, unsure how to adjust this. I looked in the manual and said 10mm before resistant on the lever and I did that, dont seem right.

It would appear (upon further investigation) that the manual decompression shaft has rotated into a wrong position if this is possible does anyone know? Its round on top instead of flat I think that is wrong. (this is wrong I think, disregard)
 
it should be possible so i guess you found a way!

get the exhaust valves open to their deepest point and get the shaft right aagin. then set your tappets again.

regards

Taffy
 
I am Confused. The microfiche shows the shaft having flat on top, and round on the bottom. These pictures of a KTM RFS motor show it like I have it round on top flat on the bottom. Click on the URL below.

http://www.ledametrix.com/valves/

On another note when adjusting the valves am I suppose to be laying the feeler gauge flat on to the Spring Retainer or am I suppose to try and put the gauge on an angle to get it pass the Spring Retainer and onto the center most part which ultimately appears to be lower then the Spring Retainer.
 
The pictures shown on that thread are correct. Flat to bottem so when you pull decomp lever it opens the ex. valve.
KTMs must have more of the valve stem protruding than Bergs by the look of the feeler gauge that bloke is using.
I had to trim part of my feeler away to make it easier to get an accurate reading but you can buy narrow, angled gauges nowadays.
Hope this helps.
 
Well Ive took the cap off, reseal it because it all looks ok, tried to do the valves again, and it will not turn over all the way with the electric start, I never ever had a problem with the starter before (unless it was the battery being old) it is a new battery. You can tell something is halting up the starter. Once is stops I can have it go round again but something halts it up. I am lost.
 
So I figured out that it wont crank over because I was not holding the decompression lever, which before I never had to do that. So it cranks over when using the lever, but have yet to put the tank on to see how it runs.

If someone can verify that this sounds correct, please do so.
 
Well I thought I had this beat, because it would crank over nicely with the Decompression lever pulled in, I can feel the engine thumping on the lever, but the bike wont run at all. Just turns over and over and over. Gas is on, it is fresh fuel. Utter *********! I think I am gonna take it to someone... :oops:
 
Looked at the plug and it is dry, I don't see how the bike is not getting gas if that is the problem, it is getting spark. The catch can is empty so I don't think it is vapor lock. It just worries me that the bike wont turn over unless I use the decompression lever, and doesnt appear to be sucking fuel, the card is full of fuel, Choke is on. Can valves being adjusted wrong cause it not to pull in air/fuel mixture.
 
Sounds like you adjusted the valves on overlap, that is you adjusted the valves with the motor on TDC on the exhaust stroke.

Be sure it is on TDC on the compression stroke.

To explain, by setting your valves on the overlap or TDC on the exhaust stroke, the valves are now so loose the auto decompressor cannot dip the exhausts at all.
 
Sounds like you know what your talking about. So as long as the piston is at the top, and both valves closed, I have it in the correct position?

I thought I was adjusting it on compression stroke. I was watching for the Intake to open, then getting it on TDC. Maybe Im wrong. I know decomp lever was working in this position.

The way the bike is set now, does this explain why the engine wont crank over unless I have the decompression level down?
 

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