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oil breather, loosing oil

R

RejekzNoodles

Joined Jan 2011
74 Posts | 0+
Manchester uk
hi every one just a quick question, why is my 03 berg loosing lots of oil threw the frame from my oil breather, its that bad it was fouling my plug as it went back threw the carb and makin the bike cut out, and smoking more than a bike eva should. so i a made a little mod on the rubber boot on the carb using a 2mm hole and some tube for it to drain out instead of getting sucked threw the carb and fouling my plug, i know its not the oil level as it is filled well below the glass peep hole. its worrying me as i can leave it ticking over and the amount of oil dripping out of the tube is way too much. hope some one can help me out with this one.

thanks
 
first of all, what bike and what year. a couple of things to look for. check that the reed valve at the base of the motor is'nt broken. second (depending on what motor you have) if you have two breather vents on the rocker cover try blocking off the rear one. you can also do a search for engine breather mods, I did a mod and added an automotive breather valve and it solved my problem of oil loss through the vent. If your loosing enough oil to foul your plug I think maybe the reed vavle is broken.
 
did you tip the bike over then noticed the oil and plug fouling? if you tiped it over then a lot of oil can get in there, also when the engine is cold or ran at high rpm more oil can get in there, a lot of people modify the breather system so the hoses dont go into the frame but get rerouted elsewhere then theres no way oil can get in there if yours has a front and rear hose coming out of the head and into the frame some people block off the rear one and reroute the front on or something, if you search breather mod you will find some different ways how to do it, how much oil are you actually losing though? do you need to add oil because it goes low? if i remember right i also seemed to add oil (not a lot) after a few shorter rides until i rerouted my breather now i dont lose any and starts immediatly even if tipped upside down, im not sure if this is what you have got going on or not but it may be worth a look into, you also may want to check your reed valve inside the clutch cover to make sure its not clogged or broken off..
 
helithumper beat me to it... i have been trying to finish typing that for half an hour, my kids arent leaving me alone :?
 
thanks very much lads for ur replys my bike is 650 fe 2003 and it only has the 1 cone style breather at the front of the rocker cover, i can loose about an egg cup full if i leave it ticking over for 15 min and when i take the air filter off the fame is pissed wet threw with oil from being cleaned just before, will take clutch cover off tomorrow to see wot its like and have a look for these breather mods. and same here bergini took me ages as my kids wont let me type lol :D
 
I guess it depends on how quickly the problem started. Overnight, maybe the reed valve. Most likely rings. Checking the reed valve is a lot easier than checking the rings.
 
Berger, in two lines you said it all !
There is also the possibility of the valve gides.
:cheers:
ZAGA
 
Hey BERGER and ZAGA. how could it be the piston ring or valve guides, He said the oil was coming throught the breather into the intake. He also said the inside of the frame was covered. the rings and the valve seals would be my first two I look at if I'm buring oil with no evidence of oil in the frame.
 
if the piston rigs are bad it wil cause a excessive blow by which will increase crank case pressure. which will excape trough the breather.

but with bad valve guied's i don't se it blowing through the breather just burnig oil.
 
I didn't understood that the frame was covered ???, the oil must come down the frame in to the carb boot, that's the way it got there.
:cheers:
ZAGA
 
Typical symptoms of worn valve guides and seals are blue smoke on initial start up. Excessive blow by is not a symptom. I would not rule out the guides being coincidently worn as well.
 
right lads pulled clutch casing off today and pulled the reed valve off, and it is all still in one piece, i cleaned it all up and put it back on cleaned the frame left it ticking over for 10-15 mins still puffs out blue smoke when i give it a quick throttle leave for a couple of seconds throttle up again and puffs out blue smoke i pulled the air filter off to see it is still coming down the frame but had not reached the carb boot yet,so it is still leaking down but not as fast as it did so still buning oil but obviously not from the frame

thanks
 
how long since your last rebuild. Has the problem just started or has it progresively gotten worse. was the reed valve bent or was it still flat.if it's all of a sudden I would say the rings are gone or the cylinder is out of round. does your bike overheat if you let it Idle for 10-15min, because mine would overheat after only 5min.

sorry for all the questions.
 
last rebuild was 12 month ago i had the liner re nikasil and used the same rings and piston as they was in spec, new head gasket new mains and other varius bearings, new cam and chain and rollers bike only does a couple of hours on the weekends for motocross at a easy pace. the reed was only bent a fraction of a degree so i put it on the other way
 
Have you ridden this yet since you found the problem and got it warm and really monitered oil loss? or is this all with cold engine? You can always do compression test and/or cylinder leakdown test and check the rings...
 
wot psi should the compression be with throttle wide open n can i still do it with kickstart auto decompression still atached

thanks
 
compression should be 130 psi or so, it shouldnt make a difference wether throttle is open or closed? if it was a two stroke it could make a diffence just leave it closed on yours when you check it.... you can still check it with auto decrompression hooked up when using kick start or electric start, electric start will be a lot easier to check it, if you use the kick start to check it you will probably need another person to help hold the bike and kick it for you, to get an accurate compression test the engine should got through 2-3 compression strokes, then reeat the test a few times to make sure your readings are the same, if the compression is low a cylinder leak down test can help you pinpoint whats causing the low compression and possibly your oil loss, if you can hear air hissing out the tailpipe you can expect and bad exhaust valve, if its hissing back through the carb and intake you could expect a intake valve defect and if its hissing out the breather pipe you could expect defective rings, cylinder wall, or piston, if you did a leakage test you will probably need to disconnect the breather tube from the frame to know if air is escaping from the breather or through the carb into the airbox...
 
You always do a compression test with the throttle open. You can't get an accurate compression number with the auto decompression device working. CLT is the best bet, but still not sure if the decompression device would come into play. Probably not at TDC.....my brain hurts too much right now to really think about it.
 

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