This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

OBEKR vs JD jetting blue or red needle

Joined Nov 2010
235 Posts | 17+
montreal,Canada
Hey Guys

My 2005 fs 650e was jetted like this: outside temp 40 -90 degs fer. 200ft above sea level

Main jet #185
starter jet #85
MAJ #200
Idle air jet #100
pilot jet #42
air screw 3 1/2 turns
JD red needle 5th clip
acp pump still connected.

The bike ran great but it has getting harder and harder to start. the idle last summer was an issue as when the engine was cold it would'nt idle so you turn it up manually and when the engine was hot the idle was way to high. I solved this problem by turninh the air screw out 1/2 turn but at the end of the summer i found myself turning the idle up again. when I took the bike apart for the winter I noticed the carb needle was slightly bent?

I have a JD jetting blue needle and a OBEKR needle. I've read good this about the OBEKR needle and was wondering which needle I should use. From what I've also read, my main jet is way larger than stock and larger than what others are running. This is what I was thinking of trying.

Main jet #170
starter jet #85
MAJ #200
Idle air jet #70
Pilot jet #40
air screw 1 turn out ?
OBEKR needle 4th clip

Tell me what you think: any help would be appreciated

Regards Dave
 
Gday Dave

I found if you change the main air jet to be slightly bigger than the main it makes the whole carb easier to understand

with the #200 MAJ the bike goes lean at extended or high rpm even if you have a 180MJ because the overall fuel curve is wrong with the #200MAJ

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tun ... s,Pat.html

so if you test the EKR needle with a 165 main and a 165 MAJ you could then aim for something like a 160 main without being lean at high rpm. you might end up with a 170 main though, have to test them.

I never tried the JD needles, only the EKR DVT honda NKBT and the lineaweaver needle, lineaweaver needle was best for my 650 followed by the EKR

bottom line is I think the MAJ is more important than the needle and as the main jet and MAJ both even effect starting id make a start there

others will probably have a different take on things

cheers
Bushie
 
Not the answer you were looking for, but have you adjusted your valves recently?
 
Hey Berger.

I check my valves every 15-20 hrs


Hey Bushie. are you saying I should drop my MAJ to something like 190? and go with a 170 main.



Thanks for the advise
 
that would probably be only slightly better not much difference 200 to 190

i would start with the EKR needle and MAJ of #165 and then bring the main down to suit say 170 - 165

only because I know it works and have no experience with the JD needles

can solder up the jet and drill it to 1.65mm

maybe try a faster idle setting first
 
Thanks Bushie

I have plenty of jets lying around that are the same dimension as the MAJjets so I will drill them out to the appropriate size.

This will be my new starting point.

Main Jet #170
MAJ #170- 172
pilot jet #40
idle air jet #70
OBEKR neddle 4th clip maybe go to 5th
air screw 2 turns out.

It's going to be 23" F tommorow so I don't think I will be doing any testing. Hopefully it's going to warm up soon
 
You answered your own question to start with by saying you had to turn mixture screw out this means your pilot jet is too small, now you going leaner again I noticed try a 48 or a 50 hopefully it will start easier then.
 
Hey Birdwood

You are correct that I'm going leaner on my pilot jet but I'm also dropping my idle air jet which would make it richer.

I have done tons of reading on this subject and I have found that there's are 2 different ways of thinking when it comes to tuning these carbs. One way is like you said, Go bigger on the jets if it's too lean, and the other is to go smaller on the jet size but smaller on the air jets as well.

I am used to tuning carbs that don't have air jets so you're method of thinking works, Go bigger. I'm trying to figure out if that's the proper way to go. There are tons of knowledgeable people on this site that say the best way is to tune these carbs is to drop the air jets which makes sense, if you drop the air jets it will richen the system.
I have owned this bike for over three years now and have put 25000kms on it, to which I never had to do any sort of adjustment to the carb. It was only last summer that I had to start playing with the air screw. So now while I have the bike apart for the winter It's a great time to tackle this problem.

Thanks for the insight though, any type of information is always useful. Like my dad always said: It's a waste of a day if you didn't learn something new.

Regards Dave
 
Mine wouldn't even idle on a 40 pilot but mine has a akropovic these spec come with pipe and are pretty close 50 pilot 165 main obekr needle 3rd clip from top. Summer in Australia I could go to a 48 pilot any lower is to lean these motors are so fussy to get a good idle if pilot is not spot on.Tired motors idle badly and are harder to start check for blow by into air filter area. I understand what you are saying but something has caused your problem if a previous setting doesn't work.
 
Good Point Birdwood about the motor being tired. I just replaced my piston as the old one had 300hrs on it and I was getting blowby out the tailpipe at the end of the summer So that could have been why I had to keep adjusting my Idle. Even though it was way to cold to ride this weekend I bench tested my bike in the garage With:
Main jet #170
Main Airjet #180
pilot jet #40
idle air jet #70
OBEKR 4th clip
air screw 2 1/2 turns

The bike started right away and idled. After making some adjustment, It idles at 1800rpms but the air screw is out 2 1/2 turns so I will go with a larger pilot maybe a # 42 or a #45

Thanks Dave
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions