No start, 99 FE501 Running out of ideas...

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 99 FE501 and a 97 FC501 for CHEAP.
I got the 97 running, so now I'm working on the 99.

What I've done:

-Thoroughly cleaned the carb, checked needle for wear, cleared all passages, etc..
-Checked valve clearances.
-Good plug
-HOT spark
-PO installed a Sparks rewound stator
-New timing marks etched, set 1mm left of new mark
-Kill wire disconnected (I have spark anyhow)
-turned the idle screw up and down trying to get something to happen while kicking.
-mixture screw 1-3/4 turns out.
- I wanna say 45 start jet, 45 pilot, (stock jetting?)

So, I have fuel, air, spark, I believe it's timed correctly now, the ONLY thing I'm questioning now is the coil...

I have a black coil, which I believe is the right coil for 99.
It has a red, green, black, orange AND a white(?) wire. I have tried grounding the white wire and tried with it disconnected. It sparks either way, is this an adjustable map wire?
I've attached pics of the coil. The P/N appears to be:

ICU10/DE556
855 191 01
9?836

Is this the correct coil?

I have kicked this bike over 150 times, at least, and the most I've gotten was occasional spit back, a couple kick backs, and once it started for about 1 second and promptly died. I'm tearing the muscles in my leg and I'm out of ideas.

Taffy,

Thanks for the reply.

So are you saying I have the wrong coil or will this coil work? Your wording confused me, my coil ends in "01". If it's not the right one, what coil number do I need or which ones will work? I do have a couple red coils from <98'.

I do have electric start, but I'm currently not using it. When I wire it in, does the white wire get wired into the one that goes to the starter relay from the starter button?
What exactly does the white wire do?

The brass in my carb is in good shape but not brand new. The jets that meter the starts and idle circuit are in excellent shape so I'm not thinking that the problem. If I can get the bike to start then I'll consider the a new needle and needle jet.

I've heard and tried many different timing configurations. You're telling me to time the bike 1mm left of the OLD mark on the rotor (I have 2 marks on it stock, and one I etched a few degrees to the right of those) , and the stator mark should be timed slightly left of center in the timing hole, am I right?

I apologize for any frustration, I'm just hearing many different methods to use and none are working for me.

Thanks.

Just a thought, is it possible for the auto decomp on the cam to get stuck in the engaged position?

Ned,

Thanks. I was kicking the bike both just past TDC and also just whacking through it. I've had success with my other two Bergs using either method.
I'll go back to your suggested method though.
Unfortunately the whole damn bike is about disassembled so I can't bump it off, but I can set it on fire and throw it down a hill.

And yes, the slide is going all the way down, I can feel it stopping against the idle screw. I've set idle everywhere between just about shut to 4 or 5 turns in. Any more than that and I was afraid I'd get kicked back.

Can anyone elaborate on the coil I have?

Update.

Moved the ignition back to 1mm left of the old mark.
Now I'm getting semi consistent backfires, still no start.
Yes, my vacuum barb for the pump is blocked off as i'm using a fuel bottle.
I'm really starting to think valve timing may be off, but I really wanna make sure I've checked everything on the outside before I pull the valve cover.

I believe my coil is correct, but what does the white wire do?

Thanks.

That explains why the white wire was plugged into the starter relay wire.
After researching the part number I'm fairly confident the coil is correct for my bike.
Unless anyone has any other ideas I think I'm just gonna verify cam timing and check for proper swing on the decomp mechanism.

OK, pulled the cam cover. Set TDC with dial indicator and lobes pointed UP.
Put a straight edge across the lobes and it's almost level, but not off enough to make me think it's wrong. And no, the straight edge isn't hitting the valve springs. Possibly chain stretch, and yes, if the bike would start I'd treat it to a new chain and even a steel cam gear.



Rotate engine to 180 the cam and set to TDC and it looks like it should, cam wheel bolt 90 degrees from cover mating surface.



I'm really scratching my head now. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble finding a problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Rocker bearings are ehhh but good enough for now, I have a valve cover I reconditioned last year that has about 15 hrs on it with new bearings, and a head with new valve seals. 2 of the valve seals (one intake, one exhaust) are blown off the guides on this one. I found this on my last FE. Weird. My old bike didn't smoke either, probably cause the top end gets JUST enough oil to keep itself from eating itself alive.
Lastly, I have a cam with a steel cam gear and new bearings (although they are not sealed) that I was gonna swap out, too.
But IIRC the 00 cam is more aggressive than the 55 cam, does that sound right?
If so I'll put a steel gear and new sealed bearings on this cam (it's a 55) so I don't beat the piss out of the valve train as much.

But as far as no start the cam timing seems fine. At this point I KNOW I'm overthinking it.
Any other idears?

Thanks so far.