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no horn power!!

Joined Jul 2008
80 Posts | 0+
yorkshire england
Can anyone suggest the cause to this problem? The horn is very weak at tick over then even weaker if you build the revs up. I was thinking that building the revs would increase the power going to it but alas no, perhaps a 6 volt horn could be the way as it would require less juice??
 
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corrosion on the reed??
 
Sorry i should have mentioned it is a brand new horn, i got it as i thought the original was bummed out, now i have tested both of them on a car battery and they function ok!!!

I'm liking the hand pump horn idea, dont ancy it jamming into me if i came off though :oops: :oops:
 
340610_X_2007-06-29_094015_627.jpg

The curled horn could be an alternative if you are afraid of getting stabbed. :shock:
Give it a spray of WD40 or CRC5-56 every now and then to keep the rust away from the reed.
 
Are the connections on the horn ok ? Are the wires ok ?
Maybe have a look at the inside of the switch itself, it might need a clean up ?

Just thinking aloud here ...
The only other thing i can think is that the horns are maybe made for cars and your bike battery cant give it enough juice to sound correct. Is it just a universal horn or a motorbike one ? I'm not sure if there's any difference to be honest but thats the only reason hte car battery would make it sound better than the bike battery. I take it your bike battery is healthy ??
 
Does the horn work without the bike running on this model bike, I think it should, so I would be checking the wiring and switch, check the plugs behind the headlight, my 06 had some damaged cables where they run up over the radiator and steering lock area, hold the horn switch in while fiddling with the wires/plugs you may just notice a change and help narrow the search
 
I dont have a battery guy, its the kick start only model, i wonder if its not generating enough juice? The horn is a bike specific one and the original works fine on a car battery!! It gives a very mild mumble on tickover then building the revs takes any power away!
 
upshegoes said:
I dont have a battery guy, its the kick start only model, i wonder if its not generating enough juice? The horn is a bike specific one and the original works fine on a car battery!! It gives a very mild mumble on tickover then building the revs takes any power away!

All the horns on KTMs and Husabergs are on reg./rectifier equipped bikes with DC power I think?

Maybe they dont work on an AC only system (if thats what yours is?)
 
Try cleaning up the contacts in the horn switch. They are not especially weatherproof and can generate this symptom.

Steve
 
It is not "juice" related. You said your bike has no battery. Is there a rectifier either directly in the wires to the horn or in the entire electrical system? If not, you have AC going to the horn & there aren't many that work well on AC.

If you do have a rectifier somewhere in the horn circuit, does the horn work better when you put some extra load - eg headlight - on the electrical system? If so, with no load the regulator works to short out the stator most of the time, leaving only a series of short duration pulses of power to run the electrics. While the peak of each pulse might be 15 or so volts, the average voltage over time is probably only a few volts. Revving the engine shortens the duration of the pulses and reduces the average voltage, making the horn work worse as the engine speeds up.

Putting the electrical system under more load makes the pulses wider and increases the average voltage.

The best way to fix it is to put a capacitor across the electrical system - after a rectifier of course! It effectively works as a small battery and smooths the DC supply voltage to somewhere up near the peak voltage of the pulses.

If you already have a small rectifier fitted into the wires going to the horn, just a capacitor directly across the horn shoud help.

Check the threads about putting a capacitor across the electrical system. There have been lots of them.
 
Ah sorry i didnt realise there was no battery on yours !
In that case i havent a clue sorry, i thought all car/bike horns were supplied with 12v DC only, you learn something new every day !
 
not sure, but recalll on the early bergs with no batteries these horns had a little screw in them that you could adjust the sound with,,,, it is along shot, but have a close look at it and see if there is a screw that can make the difference?
 
Thanks for the info gents, as usual plenty of suggestions, i think i'll go with Bundybear on the capacitor theory. The mot is due on saturday and the horn is last to sort out. I'll let you know his thoughts on the pipe and the plate position..........

http://husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNph ... d7b01cb58e

I'm sure its all perfectly legal of course!!!
 
yeah let us know how you get on with the plate position pal, interested to know how that one rates?
 

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