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New user needs SERIOUS help!

huskyscott

huskyscott

Joined Aug 2006
8 Posts | 0+
Sacramento
I am currently in the process or restoring a 1994 Husky TE610. This bike as a SEM Stator. I am told that this stator was used on 98 and earlier Husaberg bikes of simular displacement.

It has one red, green, blue, and a black wire. These all go to the coil. There are also two yellow wires that I "THINK" go to the voltage rectifier that is mounted at the rear section of the bike. There is also a "orange" wire coming from the coil.

My questions are as follows, What does the "orange" wire from the coil go to or what is it used for? And these two yellow wires that I think go to the rectifier, are they ground???

Guys I am in need of some SERIOUS assistance here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have contacted several dealers in Northern and Southern California. Nobody seems to be able to help me.

Thanks in advance.

You can reply here or send me an email at [email protected].
 
Hello there,

Go to the left of the screen and scroll down to Down Loads.

Click on downloads then on parts manuals.

The first item will be the 98 Electrical Schematic or wire list.

It will answer your questions...Let us know if you have any more.

Regards,

Joe
 
Ok, here is what I found out so far. Well first off, I would like to thank you guys for such a quick response.

All of the wires that come from the stator on this unit go to the coil. the orange lead is for the kill switch. The two yellow wires go to the regulator/rectifier box located in the sub-frame section. The black and red fused wire coming out of the regulator/rectifier should supply about 100-120 watts DC.

They go into my wiring harness and are tied directly into my battery as well(for charging). From there I go into my harness and up to the headlight/switch assy.

Now I can begin to map out my entire electrical system. This bike was converted to street legal for CA but they used various parts some from Baja Designs and some from Yamaha. And the wiring is a rats nest!

Again thank you all for your assistance. And a big thank you to Dan at Motoxotica in Vacaville, CA. Without him I would never have found this forum.
 
Ok, here is a stupid question... Should one of the AC leads that comes from the stator on this ignition be grounded to the frame?

I for the life of me can't figure out why it would need to be grounded but the original owner has a splice in one of the AC wires that go to the frame ground. There are two (Yellow) leads that come from the staror and two yellow leads that go into the voltage regulator/rectifier.

Thnaks again for all you help with this. Oh yeah, here are some before and after pictures of this project.
husky2.jpg
P4020020.jpg
 
huskyscott said:
Ok, here is a stupid question... Should one of the AC leads that comes from the stator on this ignition be grounded to the frame?

I for the life of me can't figure out why it would need to be grounded but the original owner has a splice in one of the AC wires that go to the frame ground. There are two (Yellow) leads that come from the staror and two yellow leads that go into the voltage regulator/rectifier.
Click to expand...

Here is another version, that uses a small regulator/Rectifier attached to 1 yellow lead of the stator and asnd a Brown wire to the frame of the bike (ground). Note the blue lead from the stator is also grounded to the bike frame. The other yellow lead from the stator goes to a separate regulator and to the main light switch. This setup runs some of the lights and the horn with DC and the rest of the lights on regulated AC. Yours could also be grounded to the frame with the blue lead from the stator..

Be careful, some of the regulators/rectifier heatsinks are insulated from the bike frame. They usually are mounded to the shock side of the upper mud guard and use a separate wire from the Regulator to the bike frame for grounding

Note the wire colors in the schematics and please use them in discussions like this. so we better understand how your bike really is wired (also mention which schematic you are refering to).

Regards,

Joe
 

Attachments

  • FE Schematic 01-02.pdf
    48.1 KB
Joe,

thanks for the input.

On my unit, I have two yellow input wires on the regulator rectifier.

I also noticed something strange when drawing up the existing wiring on my bike.

What they call as a "starter relay" on both drawings (you submitted) is for the starter motor. I have no starter motor but I do have this relay. Poles 1-2 go to pos/neg on the output of my regulator/rectifier and pole 3 goes to positive after the fuse (which is located on the pos. output side or the regulator/rectifier.) Pole 5 from this relay goes to my rear brake light switch. I assume that there is a need for a relay to power the brakelight switch?
 
huskyscott said:
Joe,

thanks for the input.

On my unit, I have two yellow input wires on the regulator rectifier.

I also noticed something strange when drawing up the existing wiring on my bike.

What they call as a "starter relay" on both drawings (you submitted) is for the starter motor. I have no starter motor but I do have this relay. Poles 1-2 go to pos/neg on the output of my regulator/rectifier and pole 3 goes to positive after the fuse (which is located on the pos. output side or the regulator/rectifier.) Pole 5 from this relay goes to my rear brake light switch. I assume that there is a need for a relay to power the brakelight switch?
Click to expand...

Check out this schematic, it is of the Elduro and Dual Sport model 00 Bergs except for the USA. They use a relay that is actuated by the key switch to connect the battery through a 16 amp fuse to the rest of the bikes wiring, including the output from the regulator/rectifier.

maybe the previous owner wanted to be able to disable the brake light when he was riding in the dirt??

If so, doing it that way seems kind of awkward to me!

Regards,

Joe
 

Attachments

  • Page 33 from OwnerGB-00.pdf
    29.5 KB
I GOT IT!

After two days of playing around I found out what the problem was.

While bench testing the electrical I figured if I hook up a car battery to my system all lights should operate properly. Wow, was I wrong!

Actualy there is a diod in line with the output of the rectifier/regulator to the power side of the light relay. (as described as a starter relay in earlier discussions)
When I bypassed the diod, and hooked the relay up direct to 12 VDC all lights operated properly. Even the head light. My guess is that they put that inline so the lights only run when the engine is running, with the exception of the tail light. (legal issue) After the turn relay let off some much needed smoke it started to blink as it should. Now everything works fine.

Now I can get back to cleaning the rear section and re-assembling the bike.

Thanks to all who helped. This was a tough one.

For future reference, Baja Designs has some schematics on their website that are quite useful.

Thanks again.
 
LeFrog said:
This bike has Malcolm Smith's name on it. Probably from his shop. You should maybe give him a call.

http://www.malcolmsmith.com/
Click to expand...

I did, I tried to get a replacement seat cover but they no longer carry parts for this bike. It's too bad bacause I need a new seat cover. It doesn't match the new paint that well
 
RE: The finished product

Well it is not too bad looking. It's got some blue and some yellow!
 

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