New to me FE570 - Big Problem

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Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Messages
18
Location
Portland, OR
So I just purchased a low hour 09 FE570. Wanting to start at a baseline, I was going through the bike and making sure all was good...So I start to change the oil and on the first drain plug I encounter what feels like a cross threaded plug. It is getting tighter as it is coming out of the case. :angry: :angry: :angry:

Long story short, the threads look OK so I run a die over it to clean up the threads and a tap into the case...I go to reinstall the plug and it threads in nicely and just before it reached the torque setting it spun free. AAAARRRGG!! :cuss: :cuss: :cuss:

I have literally only ridden the bike around the block. :angry: :devil: :cuss: :cuss: :finger2:

The plug now spins and will not extract from the case nor will it tighten....How on earth does one go about removing the *******? (I am talking about the magnetic plug not the screen.)

Once I get the thing out, I'll either Helicoil or use a self tapping drain plug 1x oversize...There is not much material there so I cant see going to a 12mm Helicoil...Perhaps a 10mm with a new sized drain plug? What say the experts?

Thanks!

Cheers,

Jason
 
That sounds horrible. Drill it out. Blank it off. Drain from filter screen bolt. I wouldn't experiment with tapping. Could get even worse.
 
Man, that really sucks. I went through that exact scenario last year with a Yamaha. 3 hrs into ownership! Blasted lying sellers...I tapped mine with a 12mm and helicoiled and carefully flushed and reflushed before running.
The area under the husa is super tight and thin like you're saying.

One other option is to shave the drain bolt head thinner, thin enough to get the filter bolt out. If this will clear, maybe affix the drain bolt in with some non-permanent sealant?

Otherwise, I would think you'd have to go down size in helicoil like you said.
 
It's over at BOSS in Portland now. Hopefully, the plug can be extracted without doing more damage, I'll then put in a single oversized drain plug. Tapping for a Helicoil will require dropping the motor..

Torque Monster said:
Fix it, not fun but can be done reasonably by the right tech.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
 
So to make a long story short, in order to save hundreds of dollars of labor, I'm going to pull the motor out in order to helicoil the drain plug.

Has anyone here done it? Pretty straightforward? Anything particularly tricky that I should lookout for?

Thanks for any insight in advance...

Cheers,

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
 
It is straight fwd.

I put A LOT of grease on the drill bit and tap to catch as much of the shavings as possible.

When you thread in the helicoil, go slow and be careful. You may need more than one, because they get f'd up easily.

I flushed the motor with oil a few times before running, hoping to get any remaining pieces out.
 
I've had situations like this many times in my life where I needed to tap something but couldn't afford to get any filings inside of the engine. Here is my solution that has worked pretty darn well in the past.

Because taps are fluted to allow the shavings a place to fall out and the new threads to continue being cut without clogging the tap, the shavings come from the cutting surface into the fluted portions of the tap and then usually drop out towards whichever way is down (gravity). Here is my trick, pull the oil fill cap, get and air wand, put some sort of seal around the air wand, insert it into the oil fill hole and set the amount of air pressure you would like going into the case. You need to have the drain plug removed when you are doing this and be ready to start the tapping process. The air pressure from the inside of the engine will defeat gravity and blow the cut material out of the taps flutes and not allow it to enter the engine at all.

I go slow when doing this, a bit of never sieze on the tap, and be sure to back the tap in and out multiple times while tapping the threads, don't just cut them all in one go.

This works very well and keeps the metal out of the engine, be sure to wear safety glasses as the metal will be blown outward and towards you as you cut the threads.
 
Thanks for the advice!

Here is how she sits tonight:

u2yzu5a3.jpg


And last night...
huhuna5e.jpg


I got the drain plug out with some help from a friend. The threads in the case are smooth...almost non existent. I'll post a picture.

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
 
I win the lame award. I was so excited to have gotten the motor pulled and the plug out, I negelcted to take a picture of the case.

You can imagine what stripped threads look like.

Well, its all fixed now and I'm in the process of buttoning everything up. Trying to get the wiring harness back in the stock location is harder than trying to repackage cooked spaghetti.

What a pita.

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
 
Good luck , it will all come together I'm sure :cheers:
 
It did. Got a ride ride last week. What a fantastic bike. My only wish, like hundreds of others, that the fuel range was greater...

PEI Mudder said:
Good luck , it will all come together I'm sure :cheers:

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
 
Well done. PITA is right but now you know where everything is on the bike, as well as likely tidied anything up that needed it.
Get a subframe tank. They're great, and add another ~45mi range.
 
Here she is all buttoned up. Freaking love this bike.... at the end of a 100 mile loop, I was having more fun than everyone else...I've never had a bike that makes it so effortless to ride some nasty stuff....

za5u4yme.jpg


Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
 

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