New stator and rewound stator

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eon

Joined Feb 2002

88 Posts | 0+

Brisbane Australia

Discussion Starter
• Jun 23, 2004

• #1

I have just received a new stator and rotor for my 02 501, though it would be a good idea to measure the windings, got some weird measurements:
Red to Black 1.73k - should be 3k
Green to Black 23ohms - should be 168 ohms

I rang the dealer who couldn't give an explanation other than it may be for an earlier model or even a two stroke KTM.

With regard to rewound stators, I am unimpressed with the one I have. It is made well and works great (the yellow power windings that form the base aren't touched, only the red/green/black windings to the coil are rewound and re-encapsulated) but it doesn't like to start off the button, probably because it was wound to 1.9k and not 3k, I was told they don't need anymore! The magnets are starting to look a bit ordinary now also hence the splurge on the new kit.

Ian

 

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001

17K Posts | 774+

Ely, England

• Jun 23, 2004

• #2

eon

had my cover off for the first time in well over a year last week as i needed to do the cam timing. i presume that petroleum jelly is a good conductor so i have smeared all necessary parts in the stuff having used rock wool to clean things up first.

a four stroke needs a completely different advance curve to a two-stroke-especially to start it! they are especially the OPPOSITE of each other to start the engines.

i'm not hot on electrics but that might help you.

Taffy

 

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BundyBear

Joined Apr 2003

1K Posts | 3+

Newcastle, NSW, Australia

• Jun 24, 2004

• #3

Comparing the resistance of the new vs rewound stator is not particularly reliable in that the resistance measured depends on the total wire length and section area of the wire. The number of turns is important to generate a certain voltage at a certain engine speed and should hopefully be identical to original. If the plastic bobbins used to wind the new windings are thinner then less length (= less resistance) is needed for the same number of turns. If the wire is slightly thicker then its resistance per unit length will decrease. Your measurements that are less than original possibly indicate the use of heavier wire in the rewinds to make them more robust, but perhaps he also did wind less turns.

If I ever have to get mine rewound I'll try to get more turns than original put on the coils to see if it works OK. I does seem to improve starting.

 

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Scully

Joined Jul 2003

330 Posts | 0+

Nth Tasmania ( Australia )

• Aug 2, 2004

• #4

stators

According to SideTrack mag (Aust pg 68 #49) Betta Bikes PH 08 8384 3550 can double the out put with a stator rewire? Very interesting article!

 

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Hakan

Joined Nov 2001

138 Posts | 3+

Long Beach, CA

• Aug 3, 2004

• #5

Does anyone know what power light bulb it is possible to run on a std pre 2001 system. I have a 55/60 H4 in my bike.

This weekend we did a 100 mile midnight madness run in Big Bear CA and although I had no problems, my buddy was running a white light H4 80/100 on his XR and he had a real nice set up. He had his stator rewound last week to handle this.

Will the FE 501 system take the stronger bulb without any mods?

Thanks,

Hakan

 

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BundyBear

Joined Apr 2003

1K Posts | 3+

Newcastle, NSW, Australia

• Aug 3, 2004

• #6

It should have two windings in the stator, each capable of 70 watts output - 140 watts total. If you try to run a light near this size it will tend to dull at low engine revs. Be careful with the standard glass & reflector as I have seen a 100w (might have actually been a 130w?) bulb melt one on a Husky.

 

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Scully

Joined Jul 2003

330 Posts | 0+

Nth Tasmania ( Australia )

• Aug 4, 2004

• #7

watts?

I read an article that gave a "formula" for working out what size bulb or other electrical assy's you could run depending on the o/put of the bike, I just tried to find it, I will look for it again later.

 

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Scully

Joined Jul 2003

330 Posts | 0+

Nth Tasmania ( Australia )

• Aug 4, 2004

• #8

Formula

I found the "formular" for working out what wattage lights or other electrical items you want to run on the bike.
A> Get alternators output wattage, from manual.
B> Add up all wattage that you use on the bike, ie, horn, blinkers, lights etc etc
C> Divide B by 12
D> Subtract C from A = available wattage.
Hope this helps someone? (and for someone)??????????????????????????????

 

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BundyBear

Joined Apr 2003

1K Posts | 3+

Newcastle, NSW, Australia

• Aug 5, 2004

• #9

Don't divide by 12. That will give you the total amps used by the system.

 

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Hakan

Joined Nov 2001

138 Posts | 3+

Long Beach, CA

• Aug 5, 2004

• #10

Any estimates on how many watts are required for the ignition?

 

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BundyBear

Joined Apr 2003

1K Posts | 3+

Newcastle, NSW, Australia

• Aug 5, 2004

• #11

Nil - It does not run off the 12 volt system. You should easily be able to run a 100W headlight. A 130W would be pushing it.

 

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44014

Joined May 2004

303 Posts | 2+

BRISBANE

• Aug 5, 2004

• #12

i run a 100w in my 99 fe no problems at all except for the blind kangaroos :lol: i dont even have the second staror wired up :wink: oh and and you cant have the light on for more than about 10 seconds with the bike off :shock:


cheers doug

 

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Scully

Joined Jul 2003

330 Posts | 0+

Nth Tasmania ( Australia )

• Aug 6, 2004

• #13

Brad

Brad said:

Don't divide by 12. That will give you the total amps used by the system.

Click to expand...

Hey Brad, tell "Spanerman" from AMCT mag it's his formula.

 

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BundyBear

Joined Apr 2003

1K Posts | 3+

Newcastle, NSW, Australia

• Aug 8, 2004

• #14

Spanerman should stick to his namesake!

Proves that just because something is in print does not neccessarily make it correct - even in a magazine. (I would not always believe me either for that matter....)

 

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iceman

Joined Apr 2002

104 Posts | 0+

Hastings. Vic. Australia.

• Aug 25, 2004

• #15

44014 said:

i run a 100w in my 99 fe no problems at all except for the blind kangaroos :lol: i dont even have the second staror wired up :wink: oh and and you cant have the light on for more than about 10 seconds with the bike off :shock:


cheers doug

Click to expand...

I've run a 100 watt/80 watt headlight in my 400 since purchase. Sensational!
Night riding is such a rush but it helps to see where you are going.
Cheers Ice

 

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backmouse

Joined Jan 2004

23 Posts | 0+

Sweden

• Aug 25, 2004

• #16

If we use the formula P=U*I (p=power, u=voltage, I=current)
System power output: 140W
System voltage: 12V
140/12=11,66A available for ligth etc.

Lamp 100W current consumption: 100/12=8,33A, (39,96W not used)
Lamp 130W current consumption: 100/12=10,83A, (9,96W not used)

Thats what you have to play with!

But it's better to do only MX no problems with angry trees and broken lamps....

 

Parsko

Joined Mar 2003

582 Posts | 2+

Waterbury, Connecticut, USA

• Aug 25, 2004

• #17

Kudos backmouse.

If you didn't, I would have. I was waiting to read the right info, and you lended it...

 

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BundyBear

Joined Apr 2003

1K Posts | 3+

Newcastle, NSW, Australia

• Aug 25, 2004

• #18

Just member the 140W is not gospel - it is with the engine revving fairly hard. If you are just poking along (as you tend to at night) you are unlikely to realise the full rated output.

 

VIKING

Joined Jun 2004

380 Posts | 0+

Sandpoint ID

• Aug 27, 2004

• #19

Hi I was running 2 45w helmet lihgts and 35w 8" headlight on my 01 fe400
going to a 45w bulb would dim the lights this is with the charging circuit
disconnected just have fully charged battery before the ride I also noted
that hade the voltage at 12v reallity its more like 14v and lumines directly
linked with voltage so with adjusteble voltage regulator you get some
bright lights note bulb life is shorter with increased voltage
Happy trails

 

Bergini

Joined May 2011

700 Posts | 3+

Wisconsin, U.S.

• Apr 7, 2013

• #20

This is a good old thread.....Guess I am not gonna worry about using a 55/65 H13 on my old bike headlight anymore