This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

New carb for the FE600E

Joined Jun 2020
26 Posts | 1+
ohio
I had this carb on the bike but it was to long in the front and smashed the boot for the air cleaner. So I put it in the lathe and cut about 8mm off the front and cut a groove in it to match the boot on the engine. It worked out great.
 

Attachments

  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    85.1 KB
  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    87.7 KB
  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    84.8 KB
  • 6.jpg
    6.jpg
    86.1 KB
  • 7.jpg
    7.jpg
    86.8 KB
  • 8.jpg
    8.jpg
    87.7 KB
  • Like
Reactions: 1 person
Man taking a FCR41 to the head being thrown out of a lathe would feel nice....great work I have a slant 39 sitting on my desk needing to go on the 501
 
Yea, that's why I had it in back gear turning real slow and taking my time to cut it. LOL

I had visions in my head of eating that carb and not sure I would like the taste of it.

I liked the way it turned out so that is all that mattered.
 
hello everyone, I am asking for help, I need to adjust the carburetor keihin fcr 41 in my husaberg fc 600 00 I will add that it works on the original delorto and it does not want to on keihin, sometimes it will start and suddenly go out twice so it bounced that little legs did not break off once I even managed to ride , there is enormous power and I like my Berg very much, I need to tune this carburetor to this model, I think that knowledge will be useful to someone, please help ...
 
Gamer3210, I have to take it apart to clean it when I get it running just waiting on a rear brake hose this week. I will get the jet sizes for you at that time. I know this bike ran good with it.
 
how about a name fella? or a Nikname?

Not so fast buddy, your job isn't finished yet!
that tube may be shortened but I want you to remove the carb aagain and look in the back of the rubber on the head, there, you'll see two lips inside when all you need is one. slice 5mm off with a razor blade and use the outside of the wall grinder wheel to level and smooth off. you then need the groove in the alloy tube to be corrected but it will be a valuable 5-6mm because the rubber boot looks stressed even in the last photo.

Then you want to pay particular attention to two things that go wrong with the Mk1.

the first is the throttle slide has a plate affixed to it on the downwind side. this can flutter making a clucking noise and then it rattles then it fractures and gets sucked in byt he engine - luckily with no consequences.

the second is the O ring on the fuel valve. this goes rock hard after 20+ years and floods the engine with fuel. I do a Husaberg jetting kit for your bike. the needle has three angles of taper and not the one the factory at Keihin gave it.

you'll also need to keep the APJ working so that you have a form of choke. it looks like that carb was once in a bank of 4 on a 4-cylinder bike. The old mod 20-years ago was called "The Taff Mod" (what happened to him?) but nowadays we'd use a spacer on the pump diaphram.

Taffy
 
how about a name fella? or a Nikname?

Not so fast buddy, your job isn't finished yet!
that tube may be shortened but I want you to remove the carb aagain and look in the back of the rubber on the head, there, you'll see two lips inside when all you need is one. slice 5mm off with a razor blade and use the outside of the wall grinder wheel to level and smooth off. you then need the groove in the alloy tube to be corrected but it will be a valuable 5-6mm because the rubber boot looks stressed even in the last photo.

Then you want to pay particular attention to two things that go wrong with the Mk1.

the first is the throttle slide has a plate affixed to it on the downwind side. this can flutter making a clucking noise and then it rattles then it fractures and gets sucked in byt he engine - luckily with no consequences.

the second is the O ring on the fuel valve. this goes rock hard after 20+ years and floods the engine with fuel. I do a Husaberg jetting kit for your bike. the needle has three angles of taper and not the one the factory at Keihin gave it.

you'll also need to keep the APJ working so that you have a form of choke. it looks like that carb was once in a bank of 4 on a 4-cylinder bike. The old mod 20-years ago was called "The Taff Mod" (what happened to him?) but nowadays we'd use a spacer on the pump diaphram.

Taffy

The boot only has 1 rib in it and I measured it to cut the groove in the carb so it fit real nice.

Brian
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6089.jpg
    IMG_6089.jpg
    79.5 KB
97husa 600
on this carburetor works without any problems ?? you didn't have to replace the nozzles to set it?
 
Taffy
your carburetor is newer mine is definitely an older model
Taffy, I count on cb that you will help
 
My carb has a 175 main, a 50 pilot and the low speed adjuster is out 3.5 turns,

I'm at 1000 ft alt.

Brian
 
Hi Brian

that rubber is different, honestly. I have one in the workshop with two ridges inside. it would have given you another 5mm. here's a photo of one I chopped up years ago. the next stage would have been to go to the wall grinder and shave the rubber entry flat and smooth.

Taffy
 

Attachments

  • bodged home made manifold 3.jpg
    bodged home made manifold 3.jpg
    86.3 KB
  • new air filter 2.jpg
    new air filter 2.jpg
    86.7 KB

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions