New Berg (2011) engine or inyection problem

Did the bike run OK initially when you picked it up from the dealer? Have you tried the EFI 'calibration' method of starting the engine and letting it idle for sveral minutes? There's a thread on here somewhere about it. Apparently this is neccessary if you use it across large altitude changes although I had a similar problem with the exhaust popping (much less severe than yours sounds) during the first few hours of running and now it's disappeared. All my riding is done between 300 to 1500ft asl.

pegscraper said:

Did the bike run OK initially when you picked it up from the dealer? Have you tried the EFI 'calibration' method of starting the engine and letting it idle for sveral minutes? There's a thread on here somewhere about it. Apparently this is neccessary if you use it across large altitude changes although I had a similar problem with the exhaust popping (much less severe than yours sounds) during the first few hours of running and now it's disappeared. All my riding is done between 300 to 1500ft asl.

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I believe that would be called a "Burn in" pegscraper and I believe the latest time interval this month is 15 minutes at idle :lol: My favorite topic :roll:
Latest post re the subject is here:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9966

Hey scisneros,
Adjust the idle up a bit. I'm not sure it will help but worth a try.
Spark Plug?
Not too much oil in the air filter?
Check Battery Terminals are tight. That seems to happen a bit on here.
Check for white foriegn stuff in the tank. That has happened on a few new ones. Clogs the Fuel filter/pump.
Check you have the correct amount of oil in the engine. Make sure there is not too much in there.
Is the EFI Light flashing any codes?
What else have you checked?

3,500 meters= 11,482 ft. That's high. You need to turn the idle screw out some clicks and it will start easy and not die. Also if you don't have the map switch it will really help up that high. I rode up that high one time and forgot I had switch off of the aggresive mapping. Bike felt really doggy. Once I switched it back all was as well as the low elevation.

Davo said:

Adjust the idle up a bit.

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I saw that in one of “looki’s” posts a while back, think he is the full quid, but then again he went from a Husaberg to a KTM so I now have my doubts.

Davo said:

Spark Plug?

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scisneros said:

WILL CHECK, BUT I DON¨T THINK THIS IS IT. IT¨s A NEW BIKE.

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Sutto’s changed mine after 3 hours, not sure why but they did. Sutto is the full quid.

Davo said:

Check for white foriegn stuff in the tank. That has happened on a few new ones. Clogs the Fuel filter/pump.

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scisneros said:

I DON´T UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU MEAN WITH WHITE FOREIGN STUFF??? WHERE? INSIDE THE TANK?? SHOULD I EMPTY DE TANK AND CLEAN IT???

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This came up a while ago. It’s just worth checking:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12771&

Davo said:

What else have you checked?"

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scisneros said:

NOTHING ELSE, WHAT ELSE SHOULD I CHECK?

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Dunno what else to check it could be anything:
Fuel Pressure Check.
Injector clogged.
Cracked Spark Plug Cap
Faulty Coil
Valves
etc……..

scisneros said:

Ok guys. This is the deal. I wen´t enduro riding again this weekend on my New 2011 FE 450.
I read somewhere, that the burn-in could be as a result of poor quality fuel where I live (not enough octane) so I tried a Maxima Octane Booster and it really helped. THe bike did run great, no stalling and ALMOST not exhaust explosions (I guess it´s called burn-in).

I tried this after sending my bike, last week, to the shop and they checked everything (spark plug, fuel pump, wet coneectors, etc) and found nothing.

So I guess maybe that was it.

I am still waiting for my Local Husaberg Dealer to bring the appropiatte scanner to play around with a couple of ignition curves and stuff to see if the problem is totally solved (because, I did had some minor burn-in´s from the exhaust which may be cause of not enough fuel sent).

So I will keep riding with this Maxima Octane Booster which helpt a lot

Greetings.

Sebastia

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Great to hear that you're making progress, Sebastia! Keep up the reports and let us know how it goes.
And the term you're referring to is called "back-firing" in the US.

Cheers! E-Ticket

I dont know if the problem has been resolved or not...one thing this sounds like...seems too simple but I've seen it many times now...Aside from the other stuff mentioned like Burn-in, etc. If you have the KTM euro light switch on there, it could have debris and the kill switch is shorting...seems dumb, I know, but these aren't the best switches and have had to do some of my own mods to fix them...when running, the bike would POP try to die, then run again, etc etc etc. Just disconnect the kill switch lead behind the headlight (assuming the Euro switch is on the bike) and see if the problem persists.

Also, of course, check your grounds are good, battery terminal isnt broken (seen this a few times), other simple things before you dig too deep...

I am no mechanic, but it seems to me that backfiring could indicate a timing problem and/or electrical problem. It suggests the fuel isn't getting fully burned in the chamber. This could be caused by an intermitent electrical connection such as the battery or spark plug. Some have had issues with water on the plug cap.

If you have a map switch you could see if the backfiring changes on different settings. I think it would backfire more when in the soft mode, and less in aggressive - since the switch alters the timing. It would be an interesting test.

And I am no chemist, but I think the white foreign stuff is sediment from Ethanol. I was one of the lucky ones that got a bike straight from the dealer with a plugged up fuel filter. After doing a fair amount of research I think it is a result of Ethanol in the fuel.

The dealer usually only puts a small amount of fuel in the tank when they assemble the bike. It then sits on the showroom floor for who knows how long. And in my case it then sat in garage all winter. The water vapor in the air mixes with the Ethanol and it settles to the bottom of the tank. The water can cause sporatic performance with coughes and sputtering and even the engine dying. And it leaves behind the white powdery stuff that can clog the fuel pump filter, the fuel pump itself, or the injector. Long term it can also damage rubber hoses and seals.

I suspect this water mixture with Ethanol may explain a lot of the sporatic performance problems many people have reported.

Be sure to buy gas from a reputable source, keep it fresh, and keep your tank full (to minimize the amount of water vapor that can enter the tank). If your bike is going to sit for a time, add some fuel stabilizer. And it might be worth using some injector cleaner now and then (although I haven't researched that topic yet).

All just theory at this point...

scisneros,

The burn in is the time it takes the bike's ECU to readjust itself after the density altitude has changed quite a bit. Let's say you were riding at sea level and 60F, then went up to 5000' and 70F. That is a big difference in density altitude.

All you have to do is start the bike and let it idle for 5 minutes, and don't touch the throttle during this time. The ECU will adjust to the new conditions.

It also sounds like your bike has come with a "green" map in it for emissions purposes. Once your dealer gets his setting/diagnostic tool, have him re flash your ECU with the "competition" map and I'm sure all of your popping issues will disappear.

Use a good quality fuel, with the right Octane rating. Running too high of an Octane number is going to create excessive heat in the motor, and it will produce less power.

You also might try the Akra slip on muffler. It breathes better and is just as quiet as the stocker, and weighs a lot less.

Davo and everyone else were hitting the nail on the head with their suggestions here. Especially having too much oil in the motor.

By the way, what is the Methanol/Ethanol content of your fuel?

DaleEO said:

Davo and everyone else were hitting the nail on the head with their suggestions here. Especially having too much oil in the motor.

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I learnt the oil level from you Dale :wink:
How controlled am I with bitting my tongue on the burn in?

scisneros said:

Dale, Davo and everyone else who has tried to help me in this matter:

Burn-in is still happening in my bike, not because of excess of oil (have checked that) or any other electrical problem or fuel pump since we checked that also.

So I guess the problem is that it came with a green mapping from factory.

The scanner has finally arrived into my dealer and I helped them install it into a computer.

Now we don´t know hoy to change the green map to a "competitive" map to see if that is the problem with the bike´s burn in.

I had a FE 450 09 and it never had a problem in the same altitude conditions and fuel we have here, the only difference was that the old husaberg distributor who sold me that bike did have the scanner and knew what to do with it (he took the green maps because in Ecuador there is no sound or gas emission problems with the law).

The new distributor didn´t have the scanner until last week but they don´t know where to change de mapping on the bike.

Please let me know if someone has any clue (step by step) on how to make the ORIGINAL HUSABERG SCANNER work in order to do what DALE recommended me.

Greetings.

SC

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Once you get the bike hooked up to the scanner and are looking at the computer screen. You should be able to go to a page with the "maps" on it. There is where you will find a map called "competition European" or something like that.

It takes a few minutes to load it. Then once it is done, do the 5 min idle and take it for a spin.