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New 2011 FE570 quits after 20 miles!

Joined Jul 2012
20 Posts | 0+
I rode it sixteen miles today on it's maiden voyage. Put a KTM fuel sock in at the dealer's yesterday when I picked it up new. Put 1 1/2 gallons of 91 octane Arco in and rode it for sixteen miles of mixed dirt and asphalt to the top of Santa Rita Creek Road.

On my way back down (coming home), it started losing power and as I pulled in the clutch it stalled.

I pulled over and after about ten minutes it started up with an extremely fast idle. I rode it a mile and it died again.

Waited about ten minutes and it started again, rode it about a quarter mile and it stopped and wouldn't start no matter what. Still won't and it's been eight hours.

It's flashing three long and three short which the owner's manual calls a "fuel injector fault" whatever the f*%k that means.

Pretty disappointing for a $10,000 bike!

Closest KTM dealer is 120 miles away, closest Husaberg dealer is 3 hours away...yipee! NOT!!!
 
Questions:

1. Was the fuel tank removed and flushed to get rid of any residue from the molding manufacturing process? There is a recommended chemical solution wash (name escapes me) to flush the tank. Flushing with gasoline does not properly clean the tank of this residue.

2. Does this bike still have the 10 micron injector filter? These melt and quickly block the injector. These were all susposed to be replaced by the dealers with the 20 micro filter. Lots of posts about this filter.

Cheers,

Blaine
 
Blaine, I don't know if the tank was removed and cleaned. The mechanic that set-up my bike has a FE570S as does the owner of MPC in Roseville, CA where I purchased it.

They told me they replaced the filter with a 20 and removed the injector and cleaned it ultra-sonically. The sock was brand new with no debris on/in it.

I called the mechanic at Malcolm Smith Motorcycles today as they are one of the few dealers here in Cali open on Monday. He thought it was way too early for the little filter to clog up (20 miles) but said the 3 long/3 short code for an injector fault is very vague, could be anything from out of gas to plugged filter to plugged injector, etc.

I guess I'll call John Moore in Santa Cruz tomorrow and see what he can do. It's going to be an expensive fix even under warranty as he's the closest dealer and still 3 hours away. Gas in my Ford F 150 both ways plus a day off work, not a good start for a relationship!
 
willhesch said:
I called the mechanic at Malcolm Smith Motorcycles today as they are one of the few dealers here in Cali open on Monday. He thought it was way too early for the little filter to clog up (20 miles) but said the 3 long/3 short code for an injector fault is very vague, could be anything from out of gas to plugged filter to plugged injector, etc.

No way would the Fuel Injection light flash the Injector fault code if it was out of gas (petrol where I come from :) ), plugged filter or plugged injector.
It is purely an electrical circuit fault like:
* Injector connector is not on correctly.
* Blown Fuse.
* Broken wire in the loom or shorted wire.
* Faulty Injector.

Check resistance of Injector.
Check for +12V on the Injector connector while hitting the starter button at the same time to engage the power relay.
Check for pulsing voltage across the Fuel Injection Connector while hitting the starter button at the same time.

Injector.jpg


Davo
 
Davo, thank you for such a remarkable reply!

The tests are beyond my capability but I will show this to whichever mechanic I end up taking my bike to.

Your prognosis matches what Barshoe told me this afternoon, plugged or non-functioning injector.

Here's an interesting tidbit which he and I discussed today. The dealer who sold me the bike told me they replaced the 10 micron filter with a 20. He also said they ultrasonically cleaned the injector. Why would you clean the injector? It's a new bike with a new (I'm hoping) injector, what could've been wrong with it from the factory? It just seems interesting in retrospect, especially if it ends up being a clogged or faulty injector.

I'm going to make some more calls tomorrow morning and try to line up a mechanic to fix my bike, I'll definitely see if they can perform the tests you recommend.

Wish you lived here in Cali!
 
willhesch said:
Davo, thank you for such a remarkable reply!
Thanks

willhesch said:
Here's an interesting tidbit which he and I discussed today. The dealer who sold me the bike told me they replaced the 10 micron filter with a 20. He also said they ultrasonically cleaned the injector. Why would you clean the injector? It's a new bike with a new (I'm hoping) injector, what could've been wrong with it from the factory? It just seems interesting in retrospect, especially if it ends up being a clogged or faulty injector.
Not sure why he would clean the injector. Maybe he was just being thorough. I have no idea if this could happen, but maybe there was a bit of debris in part of the fuel system after the fuel filter from when the bike was new.
 
Davo, it was a loose ground wire. Supposed to be screwed into the frame but was dangling, I don't know how it ever ran, it must've come loose on my first ride. You were correct all along. The dealer first replaced the fuel pump but the bike still wouldn't start so they started looking for wiring after putting the Husaberg diagnostic tool on it.

It's still starting hard, popping and farting and lots of cranking to get it started, I don't know what's up with that. Dealer thinks the battery's down, what do you think about that? I took it for a five mile run tonight to charge it. I only have a ten amp charger and the dealer thinks that's too heavy for the little battery so running the bike is all I can think of.

The dealer cut the little pipe off where the cap of the muffler joins the main pipe stating that would free-up the exhaust but now it's really loud, way too loud for me, I'm embarrassed to ride it in my neighborhood, is there anything I can do other than purchase another muffler? I'm spent-out after dropping $10,000 last week on this bike.

Thanks, Will
 
I'm none too impressed with your dealer. In modifying the muffler they have changed the air/fuel ratio, caused your bike to run lean (unless they also flashed the ECU with the "performance map"), and very probably voided your warranty. Since it's now to loud for you, they've probably also cost you some $300 for an aftermarket muffler.

Okay, these bikes start hard when they're new. That's pretty normal. And your dealer was right about the factory muffler - it's very restrictive. I made a series of incremental modifications to the muffler on my 570 (I didn't go as far as they did, though), and eventually gave up and bought an FMF 4.1 slip-on. Best $300 I've spent on the bike, but you might think that the 4.1 is too loud - even with the reduced noise tail piece and spark arrester.

At this point you need three things:
- You need the performance map flashed to your ECU, and your dealer should do it for free because they made it necessary with their hacksaw modification to the factory muffler. Without it your bike will run lean, and will backfire on deceleration.
- You need written assurance that your factory warranty is still in force.
- You need an aftermarket muffler, which your dealer should get for you at their cost - again because of the mod they made to your factory muffler. FMF makes a pretty quiet muffler for the 570 called the Q4. You will want to check it out.
 
Ruger, they did the performance flash on the ECU per my instructions. I'm just bummed about the noise, it's really loud. If I were hiking and someone came down the trail sounding like my bike sounds, I'd be bummed/pissed. I'll live with it I guess, no money left!

Good to know they're all hard-starting when new...why though?
 
Will, did they give you the part of the muffler internal pipe that they cut off? If so, you could have it welded back on pretty cheap. You'd still have to modify it, because it'll sound like a sewing machine and run way too rich with the performance map. Better yet, you could have one fabricated using a slightly larger diameter pipe. That wouldn't cost much, either.
 
If you have not already.........

You need to remove the air injection valve that is on the side of the cylinder and install the plug kit. This is what makes them pop, hard to start etc...

This in addition to having the ECU flashed with the competitive off road competition map.

You also need to get yourself a battery tender and keep it on the battery whenever you are not using the bike. When you put it on the battery just un do the fuel pump connector that's on the tank face behind the air cleaner, as the battery tender will oscillate the voltage up and down during the charging phase and this will cause the fuel pump to cycle. This oscillation of spiking the voltage helps to clean the plates in the battery and will dramatically increase the battery life if used all the time when you are not riding it. Otherwise the plates will sulphate, and the battery will loose amp hours or cold cranking amps.

The other thing that you should do that will help with your situation since you have had work done and it appears that you are making short rides is to start the bike on a stand that holds the bike straight up and down and let it idle for at least 5 minutes WITHOUT touching the throttle. This allows the ECU to use the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure), IAT sensor (intake air temperature) to determine the rudimentary density altitude and adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. I do this every time I go out riding as the conditions from the last time I rode it compared to when I just starting out are quite different DA wise.

The muffler thing is a drag, but, the stock muffler is restrictive and quiet. If you are going to replace the muffler, put an akraprovic on it. They are pricy but, they are quiet and flow good. I am not personally a fan of the FMF mufflers. You might also consider a Leo Vince muffler as most of them come with 3 different inserts for different levels of noise output.

I know this has been a pain in the a**, but once sorted you will find your bike to be very reliable and long lasting. Dirt Rider just completed their long haul article on the 09 570 that Jimmy Lewis bought, and after 300 hours upon tear down everything was perfect inside the motor.

The one thing you may want to do is wrap the wiring loom from the battery box where it passes over the motor with a piece of a cheap front inner tube. This will keep it from chaffing on the engine cases and causing problems down the road.

Dale
 
Hi Dale. I use a Battery Tender on my 2011 FE570S and it doesn't cycle the fuel pump as far as I can tell. I'd hear it if it cycled, right?
 
willhesch said:
Ruger, they did the performance flash on the ECU per my instructions. I'm just bummed about the noise, it's really loud. If I were hiking and someone came down the trail sounding like my bike sounds, I'd be bummed/pissed. I'll live with it I guess, no money left!

glad to hear you dont want to be too loud. rode yesterday with a younger rider and said whenever we get near houses bordering our riding areas. just choose a higher gear and idle through quietly. nup, mx style and loud as hell.

like you, bugger all money for farkles once i bought the 570 but was concerned about the heat from the stock exhaust. got the lexx exhaust which are around $170 on ebay new. these are surprisingly quiet, at smaller throttle openings its about on par with the stock exhaust. noisier when you crack the throttle but not much more. might be worth looking at?
 
Ruger said:
Hi Dale. I use a Battery Tender on my 2011 FE570S and it doesn't cycle the fuel pump as far as I can tell. I'd hear it if it cycled, right?

Yes you would...........

Maybe there is a difference on the 11 570's since they have a key switch???

Both of my 09's will cycle the fuel pump at least once if not more during the time that the little green light is blinking during the end of the charge phase..........
 

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