New 2010 FE450 Burg Owner... Inspection Before Ride!

weird

hopped on mine and been riding the wheels off it with not 1 issue from the showroom or loose peices

One thing I did to my bike was to take apart every electrical connector on the bike and put die electric grease on all of them. This to prevent any water or corrosion on the connections-this will pay off in the long run. In fact, I packed the connections with this grease so it spooged out when I put the connectors back together again.

Yes, there has been a couple of cases of the connectors on the fuel pump coming loose, mine being one of them. However, in MY case it was my fault as I had changed the internal fuel filter, and when I shoved all of the fuel line back into the tank, I did not pay careful enough attention when doing so, and the fuel lines got caught on one of the EJOT screw wells and got bound up an put a strain on the electrical connectors. So, if you are really looking for something to do, you could solder the connections on as some others have done.

There has also been a couple of reports of the fuel pump coming out of the holder that bolts into the tank. There are two fingers on the fuel pump housing that clip into two small slots in the fuel pump holder. There are a couple of different ways to prevent this from happening. The easiest is to drill two small holes in the fuel pump holder, one on either side of where the fingers are and then put a loop of safety wire through there before installing the pump into the holder and then tightening the wire to keep the "fingers" held out against the holder housing. Or, you can do it the way I did it using a #4 wood screw with a countersunk or flat head . Drill a single hole in the fuel pump holder above the finger slot big enough for the wood screw to pass through. Then install the pump, and hold the finger tab with a screw driver, and then through the same hole you just drilled, drill another hole this time in the finger itself of the proper size for the #4 screw to bite into. Then use a counter sink bit on the outside of the housing for the countersunk head screw so that it sits flush with the outside of the fuel pump holder.

The next thing to do while you have the tank off,is to take a new or old standard front inner tube and cut a section to length that will fit around the wiring harness that runs between the battery box, up and over the motor. Cut it down the middle and trim the excess, wrap it around the harness and secure with a couple of tie wraps. This will eliminate any potential chaffing problems on the wiring. There was one case of a guy here on this site that was having some fits with main fuses blowing, and it was traced to the white wire with the blue tracer having rubbed through on the highest point of the cases on the left side of the motor.

In addition to your CV4 blanket, you can wrap the mid pipe with header wrap. I highly recommend the DEI titanium wrap as it is super easy to work with, and really reduces the radiated heat. Just be careful of how much air space you have left between the mid pipe and the CV4 blanket where it passes close to the fuel tank where it is headed down along the frame spar. You want to be sure and have some air gap in there for the air to circulate.

Once you have done your 3 hour and next valve lash check you will be good to go here. Seems like everyone is getting well in excess of 100 hours and the valves still don't move.

If you can afford it, the Akra slip on is a really nice addition to your bike. I put one on my bike before I rode it and it has been great. Great sound, and it weighs less than the box it came in. It also has an open core for the track which I have used a couple of times at my local mx track. It's pretty amazing, not that much louder, and the bike revs a lot quicker!

I also put a bulletproof designs chain guide protector on my bike, along with their radiator guards. The chain guide protector is IMHO a necessary addition b/c if you hit something hard with it, it will break the tabs off the swing arm and you will be sad. The radiator guards are way cool, and are not restrictive at all like some can be, easy to mount as well. They're not cheap, but, nothing good usually is.

And of course I have the 70 Degree Racing sub frame fuel tank on my bike for the extra gallon of fuel.


Otherwise it sounds like you are off to a great start!

Dale

DaleEO said:

In addition to your CV4 blanket, you can wrap the mid pipe with header wrap. I highly recommend the DEI titanium wrap as it is super easy to work with, and really reduces the radiated heat. Just be careful of how much air space you have left between the mid pipe and the CV4 blanket where it passes close to the fuel tank where it is headed down along the frame spar. You want to be sure and have some air gap in there for the air to circulate.

Click to expand...

New 570 owner here. Do you think the 2" wide x 15' roll of DEI Titanium exhaust wrap is the right length to cover a 570 pipe? Thanks.

Gargoyle said:

DaleEO said:

In addition to your CV4 blanket, you can wrap the mid pipe with header wrap. I highly recommend the DEI titanium wrap as it is super easy to work with, and really reduces the radiated heat. Just be careful of how much air space you have left between the mid pipe and the CV4 blanket where it passes close to the fuel tank where it is headed down along the frame spar. You want to be sure and have some air gap in there for the air to circulate.

Click to expand...

New 570 owner here. Do you think the 2" wide x 15' roll of DEI Titanium exhaust wrap is the right length to cover a 570 pipe? Thanks.

Click to expand...

I used the 1" wide stuff and bought the next longer roll and had plenty left over. I think the 2" wide stuff might be too hard to work with around the bends.

I think there is a formula on their site that explains how much wrap will cover a certain diameter of pipe.

DaleEO said:

The next thing to do while you have the tank off,is to take a new or old standard front inner tube and cut a section to length that will fit around the wiring harness that runs between the battery box, up and over the motor. Cut it down the middle and trim the excess, wrap it around the harness and secure with a couple of tie wraps. This will eliminate any potential chaffing problems on the wiring. There was one case of a guy here on this site that was having some fits with main fuses blowing, and it was traced to the white wire with the blue tracer having rubbed through on the highest point of the cases on the left side of the motor.


Dale

Click to expand...

Ive been doing a bit of internet reading about the "new" style batteries and am planning on buying a TurnTech brand battery which are much lighter and smaller then the stock battery. It looks like a new plastic battery box is cheap ($10 +/-) so with that in mind I will cut down a new battery box to accommodate the smaller battery and free up a good deal of space for the wiring. I'm a bit surprised just how crammed-in things are and really can't see NOT having issues over time. I'll post up the mod when I get to it.