neubie with a fs650e 2005 engine question

helithumper · Nov 23, 2010

hi I'm new to the forum. I just bought a 2005 fs650e with 89hrs on it. the engine is making metal so i'm going to tear it down.I see in the manual they say to change the conrod bearings at 60hrs. it seems like really low times to change that bearing seing that you have to split the crank. and the main bearings I hear are crap, so what main bearings should I be putting in and is there any other bearings in the engine I should be upgrading. thanks

The_Force · Nov 23, 2010

Hello helithumper and welcome to the site. :cheers:

the bearings that i use are (TMB206/C3 JR2 Part no. 06250.60206) on the output shaft side and
stock (NJ206ECP/C3 part no. 800.30.019.000) on the ignition side they can be bougt at your local
ktm/husa dealer

I don't know for how long the Big end bearing lasts. my bike has a diffrent crank
(weaker build 32mm big end, 82mm stroke) and i'm at 250+ hours on the big end.

Regards

helithumper · Nov 23, 2010

for what reason would you run two different main bearings, do you guys split your cranks on your own or do you have an engine shop to do it.

The_Force · Nov 23, 2010

helithumper said:
for what reason would you run two different main bearings, do you guys split your cranks on your own or do you have an engine shop to do it.

don't know why different. some on this site do there crank them self's.
you need skills and 30t rigid press for it though.

These main bearing's com from ktm RFS 560 SMR or the KTM RFS 610 crate motor.
there is guy on this forum calls him self Engineharware he races husabergs in Supermoto
he say those are the only bearing he uses in his bike's stock ones don't last.
A link to his site: http://www.enginehardware.se/

I'm at 120hrs on mine

bergbro · Nov 23, 2010

The_Force said:
helithumper said:

for what reason would you run two different main bearings, do you guys split your cranks on your own or do you have an engine shop to do it.

Click to expand...

don't know why different. some on this site do there crank them self's.
you need skills and 30t rigid press for it though.

I believe the reason for the 1xroller and 1xball bearings is that there is not enough interference between big end pin and crank flywheel (9ton to move 32mm berg pin verse 15ton for 28mm jap pin) allowing the flywheels to become nonparallel. This then leads to the edge of the needle roller gouging the outer bearing.
By using one ball bearing it gives it somewhere to flex without gouging.
Personally I got 150 hours out of my motor before i saw swarf in the oil. Only wear in my motor was the big end where the hardening had lifted from 1/3 of the conrod and the big end pin had marks on it where the flywheels had been moving. This type of bearing damage is caused by high torque loadings i believe.
There are a few different solutions to this particular conundrum (its not a problem u unerstand? jus a solution waiting to happen).

Purely opinion based on experience!

helithumper · Nov 24, 2010

thanks for the good info

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