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Needles/Jets?

kez

Joined Sep 2004
312 Posts | 0+
Sunny Surrey,England
Not A 'Berg Question As Such,But I'd Like To Pick The Brains Of The Carby People Here. :wink:
I Need To Richen Up The Settings On My VOR 450.
How Can You Tell What Needle To Use,What The Numbers/Letters To Look For When Going Richer/Leaner? :?
I've Drilled The Side Number Plate To Aide Air Flow Into The Carb,Sound Deeper And Revs Quicker And Harder But It Just Lacks That Fat Mid Range Bit If You Know What I Mean,Bottom And Now Top Seem Ok,Just Starts To Lift The Wheel In Second And Third Then The Power Just Flattens Out. :roll:
If This Was A 'Berg What Would You Do First,Needle+Clip Position? Main Jet? Pilot?
It Runs An 39FCR As Standard.
 
Taffy is the Keihin man, but it sounds like a larger main and raising the needle are in order
dan
 
kez

you could put your settings up here and give me a more analytical appraisal of what has happened so far. you can also go to TT and the exotic section. they're always harking on about this subject. doesn't mean any of them know what they're talking about mind but we all have to start somewhere!

you should get the MJ right first and then the needle. remember that the MJ effects everywhere so to do the rest then the MJ would undo all your work...

MJ = top end
needle = 4th gear plus
PJ= rolling the throttle from closed
needle straight for idle
PS on 1.5 turns. if it works better + or - 1 turn then something is out.

if you want to get a handle on jetting go back to TT and look for Jetting Qs without the apostrophy. it's an old WR thread and was once archived.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks For The Reply Taffy,Heres The Setting Straight From The Owners Manual,Hope Theses Make Sense Since Its A Straight Translation From Italian

Max Jet 175
Min Jet 50
Starting Jet 85
Max Air Jet 200
Min Air Jet 100
Idle Screw 1-1 1/2 Out
Noozle Needle 0.35
Jet Needle OBDTM
Clip Position 2

I Was Thinking Of Going To A 45 Pilot 185 Main And 4th Clip And Altering The Pump Timing To Around 1 Second.
How Do I Find Out Which Model FCR I Have Regarding The Pump Mod?
How Different Is Dales Needle In Comparison With This One?
 
Right,After Changing The Clip Position Lower 2 Places And Changing The Main To A 180,Pilot To A 45 And Altering The Squirt To Around 1 Second,Fuel 2 Turns Out,All Seems Ok With Mid And Top,No More Bog,But Cruising A 1/4 Throttle It Now Stumbles Horibly. Any Ideas.

The Main And Pilot Were 178/42 So Somebody Had Been Playing Before.
 
Kez

you can get rid of the off-idle bog by adjusting the PS under the carb (a home made screwdriver is shown in my picture gallery) or by dropping the needle not once but twice. try 1 turn out from closed.

this will either make the bog worse or cure it but because you run a DTM needle i'm sure that it'll cure it.

forget dale's needle!!!!!! it was designed for the fuel needs of a husaberg and not a VOR. IMHO your main jet is still very very rich. but unlike all other settings (when we're 'avin a larf!!) for me to get the MJ wrong will lead to discolouration of pipes and poor running if i call it too lean. however at 180MJ i think you are well off the mark.

i'm running a 150MJ at present and the bike (much modified so don't try this at home folks) is about to get a 142/145/148 i'm sure.

think i'm nuts? well DL ran into the 140s on his 400DT bike so you'll have to go figure!

regards

Taffy
 
The Bog Was From Around 1/4 Thottle And Up,Example,Riding Through The Woods,3rd Gear At 1/4t And Along Comes An Incline,Open To 1/2t And Instant Bog Then Takes Off. Then Later 1st/2nd Gear In The Tight Bits,Need To Lift Front Over Logs And Roots,Big Blip On Throttle To Wheelie Over Then Bogs No Lift Then Savage Wheel Spin.

The Clip Is Now On #4,Went 1 Size Bigger On Main+Pilot,Mid And Top Feels Fatter If You Know What I Mean???.
Dont Know What FCR I Have,But There Isnt Any Rods To Alter,Only A Quadrant With A Screw And Spring,Turning Outwards It Would Squirt For Nearly 9 Seconds,Turning Inwards It Squirt For Less That 1 Second.
It Would Start When Slide Was Around 2-2.5mm Open.
Pulling Away Is Slightly Different Now,A Little Slower Than Before,But I Think Thats More To Do With The Larger Pilot,Whacking Open The Throttle From Around 1/3 To Full Theres No Real Bog Anymore.
A Little More Playing I Think.
I Have 168 Main That I Could Try As Well:?:
 
ity's too rich everywhere. you seem to feel that more fuel makes more power and there's me going down and dale removing the APJ. there's a message in there somewhere!

the 168MJ; yeh-i'd try it! why not!

especially now, before the winter. have you been to TT and checked all their old threads on the subject? people are always on about their VORs.

there's a lad who races one at eastern centre named gene womack. he's very quick on one! but when it stalls it's a bastard!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
the 168MJ; yeh-i'd try it! why not!


regards

Taffy
Thats Easy For You To Say........You Really Need To See What Has To Be Taken Off To Get To The Carb!!! 8O 8O 8O 8O :lol:
I'll Play On Saturday Once I've Sorted Out My Car And Bring Home My Carb Special Tools From Work To Try And Get To The Jets With Out Taking The Carb Off.

Do You Recon I Need To Get A 35,38 And 40 Pilot As Well?
 
Right I Went Down To A 170 Main And Back To 42 Pilot.Didnt Do The 168 Because I Havnt A Smaller Pilot,Seems To Really Snap Now,Still Got A Little Bog Though,But Its Very Slight. Stumbles Nearly Gone.
What I Plan On Doing Is Changing To A MX Cam And Either A MX Silencer Or Free Flowing After Market System, As The Std Cam Pulls Very Strongly Of Bottom Then Starts To Fade At Mid And Top Struggles. Can Be Quite A Handful In The Tight Stuff.

When This Is Done Whats Your Thought On A 165 Main And 38 Pilot?
Seeing As The Engine Will Be Breathing Better?

I Know It Hard To Say Without Trying But You All Have Much Better Understanding Of These Things.

Sorry Its Not A Berg Question :roll:
 
remember that you can have a rich bog as well! i suggest you just keep on testing downa nd down. you can go from knowing nothing to knowing everything very quickly if you want to get involved.

yep just lean it off and go down. i would warn you though that i never try anything new until i have last problem completely sorted and i advise you to do the same.

by dropping the needle you can 'block the hole' and that's where you'll get some hesitation possibly. the PS should be turned plus and minus a half turn to get rid of it.

if you lower the MJ a lot though you can THEN raise the needle back up because the MJ controls fuel all the way from idle up.

i hope these are useful ideas. let us know how you get on!

regards

Taffy
 

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