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My rear shock is too stiff

Joined Jan 2005
2 Posts | 0+
Elk Grove
I have an 03' Fe 400e. I weigh about 174lbs (not counting ride gear).
I have the softest spring I could get on the shock and I have set both slow and fast dampening settings to the lowest setting. The rebound is set in about the middle. I have set the sag. The bike is brand new and only has about 7 hours on it. I like my rear suspension to be on the soft side, and it is still to harsh. What do I do next?
 
Trav,

It is quite possible that you have your shock set to soft and the harshness you are feeling is from it bottoming and/or riding too low in the stroke.
 
If my sag is set correctly wouldn't that rule out my shock riding to low? And it no where near bottoms out. It is stiff as a board...
 
Trav

if you're that light i suggest you open the spring right up. in the owners manual it gives the length of the spring in the code i believe. it's even on the spring itself. something like 280mm long. see how wound up the spring is first-how much preloud?

regards

Taffy
 
What is your static sag and race sag?

Most people set their sag the same as on a jap bike; which is wrong.

With a linkless suspension, we have a different golden rule.
 
"Ideally" You want to have about 5mm of preload on your spring.

After reading how you have set your bike up I would have to agree with the earlier post that you have it set up way too soft.

You need to understand how the linkless system works. First there are two pistons in that shock, one is speed sensitive and the other is position sensitive. The position sensitive piston relys on a needle that is built into the top of the shock body. This needle is designed to cut off the oil flow that is going down the center of the shaft when the shock compresses to that point. And remember, you are running a progessive spring that is supposed to be working in unison with the increasing hydraulic damping effect as the shock compresses.

So, if you are riding with the bike riding too low in the travel, you will constantly be riding in the part of the travel where that needle is engaging the top of the shaft and radically increasing the hydraulic damping of the shock.

When I got my new 04, the stock spring was too soft and that is where I was riding. As long as I was riding easy it was super plush, but, as soon as I kicked up a notch the suspension became very harsh and un ridable at faster speeds.

Also, you only have 7 hours on the bike. The motor is not broken in, and guess what, neither is the suspension.

My suggestion is to put the bike on a stand with both wheels off the ground. Take off the rear fender, and shock guard plastic so that you have totally unrestricted access to the shock. Loosen the pre load on the shock to the point where the spring has absolutely no pre load on it what so ever. Kind of just dangling around in there. Now, measure the spring, find it's longest point in relationship to how it is compressed by the pre load ring. Take that measurement and then add enough preload to compress the spring 5mm.

Now, put on all the gear you normally ride with, and put the bike on a flat/level surface. Find a place on the bike to measure the fully extended length of the suspension. Say from the rear axle to somewhere on the muffler. Make a clear mark where you measure to, and write that measurement down. Now, sit on the bike, approx. a fist's distance from the gas cap to your crotch. Carefullly balance yourself on the bike while a friend measures the distance. It should be between 3 3/4" to 4" of sag, or somewhere close to that.

If the sag is close to that then proceed. If it is way off then you will need to get the right spring, other wise you are just spinning your wheels and wasting your time b/c it will never be right until you get the right spring/springs on the bike. If you try and over come incorrect spring rates with "clicker" adjustments you are going to never be happy with the bikes set up, b/c clickers have a very limited range of function.

Now, set all the clickers back to the stock settings on the shock and the forks, and go ride the bike. Whatever you do to one end, is going to effect the other end.

Also, if you think the rear end is kicking, and have tried to compensate with increased rebound damping, this could be making it much worse. IE the rear wheel is not returning fast enough and is packing and riding in that part of the stroke that is getting stiffer.

Remember, the bike is new. You still have alot of stiction in the fork and shock seals, as well as stiction in the swingarm pivot area.

By the way, does the bike move up and down relatively easily? Or does it seem like it sticks in place?

Hope this helps. If you have any questions drop me a line.
 

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