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My 01 E-Starts cold but battery does not charge up

Joined Mar 2005
3K Posts | 3+
Mesa, AZ
It's a mechanical/electrical post, because I have an electrical question to ask.

So here is: my 01 FE501e starts cold on the button. Well, not exactly, totally cold.

Tonight, again, I primed it with the deco on, then tried to start it and because I still hurt a bit from my last ride (100+ kicks given), I tried the button and ... the bike started! :shock:

So. I have a brand new battery, I changed the plug, I redid the connections and it's all very tight under the battery connectors screws. I added a ground cable to the starter. I had the battery on the Optimate and I went and got a new plug because the old one was fouled (my fault).

Well, all is great in my Husaberg garage except that, when I tested the voltage it showed 12.86 off, same on, and it is a YTZ7S, therefore I suspect that the bike is not getting charged up.

What part should I suspect is toast?

I don't see myself carrying an optimate on the trail and looking for power outlets on the cactii...
 
You need to check it at say above 3500 rpm plus. Its not likely to charge well at idle.
 
Oh now you're going to tell me that it did not charge up on the trail because I was going too slow... :twisted:

By the way I am running on a Champion plug because that's all I could find in my area and then I dug up a post from our AvGas-using friend where he said he was using the same exact plug.

Hey I wonder how this bike would run on 100LL... J/K.
 
My bike was not charging due to a wire break just before the head stem (right before the wiring decides to go up to lights handle bars etc) where 2 white and red wires come into one. It is the second time I have seen a broken wire on a berg there. You might want to cut a good 40cm of the black surround and have a look it may well be your problem as well. Mine is an 02 berg.
 
LeFrog said:
... I still hurt a bit from my last ride (100+ kicks given),
...

Did you stall the engine or crashed around 50 times? I had problem starting the bike when really cold but that was an adjustment issue. Adjust the carburettor and try to change the kicking technique and you will not use so many kicks. Correct adjusted carburettor/valve/ignition will make it easier to start with the button as well.
 
did i mention that i found the TDC marks out and therefore advanced the ignition 8 degrees? because the rest of the bike was spot on it made little difference but now it starts first kick everytime. it's taken 3 years to get it right but it's worth it.

it may pay for more UHE members to check TDC using the dead stop method.

regards

Taffy
 
mikst said:
LeFrog said:
... I still hurt a bit from my last ride (100+ kicks given),
...

Did you stall the engine or crashed around 50 times? I had problem starting the bike when really cold but that was an adjustment issue. Adjust the carburettor and try to change the kicking technique and you will not use so many kicks. Correct adjusted carburettor/valve/ignition will make it easier to start with the button as well.

Stalled it a couple time, yes, crashed twice (not bad for a first ride on a non-dialed in suspension), but overall I had a fouled plug (I pulled the choke while the bike was already started, a technic I used with the DRZ, not good with the berg) and the carb needed some more tweaking to adjust to the heat and altitude. But mostly the heat.

Now I have adjusted the idle speed, the mixture screw and changed to one of those very expensive plugs made by Champion. It was all I could find and the bike starts a lot better then with the NGK Iridium plug, go figure.

It starts on the kick very easily now too. Maybe the carb could go see what Lineweaver can do, I'll think about it. But I need to do my suspension first.
 
LeFrog said:
...
Stalled it a couple time, yes, crashed twice
...
We all do that :D
I just wanted to point out that starting problem often is an adjustment issue.

LeFrog said:
It starts on the kick very easily now too. Maybe the carb could go see what Lineweaver can do, I'll think about it. But I need to do my suspension first.
You will get the best result if you give him the total bike.
 
I don't think it will be worth it. I live in Arizona. Driving to his place with the bike, waiting for the repair, coming back...
 
Check one bit at a time.
1. Are u getting at least 13V AC across the stator output with engine spinning? Yes = stator prob OK. No =stator probably got broken wire or 12V winding fried (most unlikely).

2. If 1 = yes are U getting at least 13V AC at rectifier (may be a combined reg/rect on your bike)? Yes = wiring to rect OK. No = wiring broken.

3. If 2 =yes are U getting @ least 13V DC from rectifier? Yes = rectifier probly OK. No = rect fried.

4. If 3 =yes chances are it is a simple wiring problem between the output of the rect & the battery. Check it all. I don't think the charge goes thru the fuse.
 
I having a similar problem with my 03-FE501E.

Ie doesnt seem to be charging the battery.

I have 12.6v at the battery when not running, and basically same volyage when started and reving. ie no detectable voltage change.

Both yellows of the stator read from 10-40+ V AC the higher the revs the higher the voltage.

The red white wire off the Rectfier/Regulator reads from 5-8 volts DC, and 10-16 V AC. (higher readings with higher revs) I thought this should have only read as a DC Voltage of approx 13.5V.

I bought a new Rectfier/regulator and the new one gives the same results.
I ran a new earth wire into the rectifier with no change.

The Red wire that comes from the regulator tops reads from 10-12.4 VAC.

Anyone got any ideas as to whats going on? Advice appreacitaed

Cheers
Horto
 

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