"Must Do's" 2000 FE501E Rebuild ?

ocotillo_jim · May 27, 2006

Hi Guys, I've been reading here for years, and learned a lot. I've never really had a need to post, until now. So I signed up, and here goes.

My 2000 FE501E has served me very well. Mostly play riding in the desert, and some recent dual sport. It is close to 200 hours, and I'm thinking I should do a teardown and inspection. No noises or smoke. Just thinking of doing it for preventative maintainance. I have the Husaberg engine manual for this. Downloaded it from here. I have been religiously changing the oil after every ride. I use the $10 / litre full synthetic Bel Ray EXS 10-50. In the manual it says to inspect, measure, etc. But from my reading here it seems that there are some parts that "must" be replaced at rebuild time. Bearings etc. Which parts are these for this year and model? Or should I just leave well enough alone?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

Jim

LINEAWEAVER · May 27, 2006

Hi Jim,
2000 was a great year!
Normal rebuild should suffice replacing all obviously worn and / or damaged components.

Personal notes:
Perform a quality valve job installing new one piece valves.
R&R camshaft support and camshaft follower bearings.
R&R crankshaft big end and main bearings.
R&R piston assembly.
R&R cam chain.

If the OE Aluminum cam drive sprocket and camshaft are in good shape no need to fret over replacement, however, such are viable options as is the replacement of valve springs.

A complete gasket and seal kit should be used and does include a new reed valve.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dale

JoeUSA · May 27, 2006

Hello Jim and Dale,

I also have a 2000 501 E-start.

The transmission main shaft 'clutch side bearing' failed at 299 hours and an intake valve spring broke at 347 hours.

The bike has had the best of care.

I will be replacing those items on a 200 hour cycle from now on.

Dale can supply 1 piece valves and titanium springs.

Regards,

Joe

ocotillo_jim · May 27, 2006

Thanks guys, this is great info. I live in North San Diego County and Ron Bishop is my local Husaberg shop. I've also bought parts from Erics in Pasadena. Are these good shops to have the valve work done? Or can you recommend others? I'm guessing that buying the bearings from Husaberg is not the way to go. Is that true? I was thinking of getting any replacement bearings at the local industrial bearing supplier. Is my thinking correct? One more question on piston replacement. I've never dealt with the nickel lined cylinder before. Does it get bored / honed to match the new piston?

LINEAWEAVER · May 27, 2006

Most any modern well equipped motorcycle facility will have and use seat "cutters" as opposed to seat "grinders". Chances are if said shop has such equipment they are qualified. If not, seek out an import auto machine shop.

The cylinder may be scuffed using a flex hone and / or crocus cloth.

Main bearings are an issue I suggest you further research via this website in particularly in Taffy's Doc

Personally, If a basic rebuild is the objective I suggest a quality ball bearing with C/4 radial clearance.

Dale

ocotillo_jim · Jun 1, 2006

Hi Dale, Any recommendations on where to buy the bearings? I poked around and could not find any specific info on a place to buy them. Thanks, Jim

LINEAWEAVER · Jun 1, 2006

ocotillo_jim said:
Hi Dale, Any recommendations on where to buy the bearings? I poked around and could not find any specific info on a place to buy them. Thanks, Jim

Hi Jim,

C/4 bearings are rarely stocked. I special order from consolidated, however, they do require a minimum order quantity.

If all else fails I have both Ball and Roller C/4 main bearings in stock.

[email protected]

510 223-9052

s-10s_rule · Jun 2, 2006

Hi guys, this is my first post, I just bought a late 90's 501 fc and almost all of the engine bearings in it were shot after about two hours of my riding it. When I tore into the thing I found that the bearings were made by SKF. Since I work at A NAPA auto parts store, and we stock SKF bearings, I cross referenced the numbers and ordered some more SKF bearings. I havent put them in yet but reading this post makes me wonder if you all think that they will be reliable or maybe if someone already replaced the origional bearings and that is why they are fryed again... I think that the only reason the bearings failed is I lost a tooth on the sixth gear on the main shaft somehow, and believe that it put some metal particles in my bearings, since I havent found the tooth... Any insight would be apperciated.

JoeUSA · Jun 2, 2006

s-10s_rule said:
Hi guys, this is my first post, I just bought a late 90's 501 fc and almost all of the engine bearings in it were shot after about two hours of my riding it. When I tore into the thing I found that the bearings were made by SKF. Since I work at A NAPA auto parts store, and we stock SKF bearings, I cross referenced the numbers and ordered some more SKF bearings. I havent put them in yet but reading this post makes me wonder if you all think that they will be reliable or maybe if someone already replaced the origional bearings and that is why they are fryed again... I think that the only reason the bearings failed is I lost a tooth on the sixth gear on the main shaft somehow, and believe that it put some metal particles in my bearings, since I havent found the tooth... Any insight would be apperciated.

No, I have never heard of a Berg loosing a tooth on 6th gear. I would say that the main shaft bearing failed 1st, and caused the 6th gear to fail from insufficient engagement. I could be wrong, but I have had the main shaft clutch side bearing fail on my 501 and the noise the gears made was a horrible howl. I ended up replacing all of the ball bearings in the engine plus the piston, valves and valve guides because of the debris that got circulated. I put a rod kit into it also, but after miking the original, figured it was O.K. The engine got damaged because a large piece of bearing ball retainer ribbon got stuck under the reed valve and held it open, allowing unfiltered oil to circulate back into the engine.

I would have stopped immediately, but was alone in the desert and 18 miles from my van.

Good luck,

Joe

s-10s_rule · Jun 3, 2006

Well I don't think that the bike has had proper maintence prior to me owning it. The guy allegedly owned it for quite some time that I bought it off of, and he told me that the oil filter cap was a blockoff for electric start. So I am assuming that he has never changed it..... *****. :shock: So your theory may be correct about the bearing causing the broken gear, but they were more stiff than loose, and the noises started instantaniously, and I immediately killed the engine and tore it appart, and that is what I found. Guess it dosen't matter, but the factory does use SKF bearings right?

JoeUSA · Jun 3, 2006

yes they use SKF, just make sure you get class 3 fit code when you buy the bearing. That means the bearing is set up to allow interference fits on both the shaft and the housings.

Joe

LINEAWEAVER · Jun 3, 2006

JoeUSA said:
yes they use SKF, just make sure you get class 3 fit code when you buy the bearing. That means the bearing is set up to allow interference fits on both the shaft and the housings.

Joe

Hi Joe,
For what it may be worth:
Of late I have been installing C/4 ball main bearings. Such being a bit more tolerant regarding crankshaft misalignment.

Hope you are doing well.

Sincerely,
Dale

JoeUSA · Jun 4, 2006

Hi Dale,

You are so right, I was focused on the transmission bearings and for some reason did not repeat your earlier post to this new poster who had just trashed his newly purchased OLD Berg.

He does claim to work for a reseller who markets SKF bearings. Maybe you could furnish him with the equivalent SKF part number for the Big end bearing for his 95 Berg.

Best Regards,

Joe

s-10s_rule · Jun 6, 2006

Well I crossed over the factory numbers on the bearings, so they should be right, they all measure the same... Well they are here already and I can't send them back either way, so I guess I will just go ahead and use them. Thanks for the help though!

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"Must Do's" 2000 FE501E Rebuild ?

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