Milky Oil, No Coolant???

MPM_Andrew · Sep 12, 2009

After stuffing up the install of a water pump seal i have been trying to get rid of milky oil from my engine (04, 650).

I have now gone through 10 litres of oil and still get milky oil within 5-10 seconds of startup. When left to sit the 'used' oil appears to return to normal and there is no visible separation of liquids. I am guessing the milkyness is aeration of whatever has contaminated the oil/cases - but that's why i'm throwing this out there, i'm just guessing.

I should mention that the last 5 oil changes and startups have been with no coolant in the system - trying to ensure that the problem was not a continuing water leak.

I've used an engine flush additive (4 oil changes ago), after first using methylated spirits and some carby cleaner when the water pump seal failed at the start of this saga.

What could be turning the oil milky? - can it still be some residual contaminants left inside the engine after this much oil has gone through (ie. metho or carby cleaner), or are there other reasons for milky oil?

What can i do to clean out whatever is in there and/or stop the oil going to sh!t so i can get some proper lubrication and go riding again?

Any help or wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Note: the oil that i have been pouring in one side and out the other is the cheapest JSAO oil i can find around here - Shell Advance 4T (15w-50) - not what i would normally run in the bike but chosen because i figured it was only going to be used for a flush out (that was the first bottle anyway).

Bobzilla · Sep 12, 2009

I think you may have a head gasket or o ring issue. I am sceptical that the coolant is still in the system from the seal botch up. I have had bikes under 3 feet of water when they were running and only needed to drain and then flush with diesel, no running lust turning over and then 2 oil changes back to back . Normal operation after.
Getting any oil in your coolant?

logjump · Sep 12, 2009

All oil looks milky if you're looking through the inspection window while the motor is running. If it returns to looking normal after sitting like you say, I don't think you have a problem at all.

MPM_Andrew · Sep 13, 2009

Can anyone else confirm what logjump is saying? - that it is normal for oil to look milky in the inspection window.

The oil has always appeared normal (or dirty brown) whenever checked in the past. It also does'nt sound like there is a lot of lubrication at the moment - very noisy even for a berg.

Bobzilla - are you referring to the O Ring that goes between the clutch cover and cases (the water channel into the water pump)? - if so, this is a new ring, and i've also put plenty of sealant around the ring as i thought this may be the problem (before running the engine without coolant in the system). Head gasket is also brand new.

I don't think what i am trying to get rid of is coolant anymore - in fact i'm certain. I'll try diesel, turning over with just the kick starter and a couple more changes and see where we are then.

bikebarnbeckman · Sep 13, 2009

while running, and only looking through the site glass, yes, one could get the impression that the oil is milky. Also, when you drain the oil, and i there is water in the oil, you should see water drain first, as well as water bubbles or small water spots in the oil. The oil would literally need to look like chocalate milk when drained and you would notice a loss of coolant if this was happening on a larger scale, and again, you would still see water/coolant drain first. Also your oil filter would be saturated with milky goodness.

Bobzilla · Sep 13, 2009

You may have put on a new o ring but did you damage it during instal. There is also a o ring in the head that could go but I think it si oil if I remember right. It you think the oil is not circlulating properly just open the vent in the top of the motor when running. If it is working you will have a mess.

Look at the oil in the window 2 or 3 minutes after stopping. Should be oil looking not milky

Coastie · Sep 14, 2009

Yep it looks milky while running - it's just aeration.
Like the others have said let it sit for a couple of minutes after shutdown.
I'd say your looking for a problem that doesn't exist.
BTW I wouldn't run it without coolant - they get hot too quick and you don't wanna create other problems.

Husaden · Sep 14, 2009

My experience is NOT to put anything but a little silicone grease on ANY O-ring. When you put sealant on it, you sort of glue it in, preventing it from doing it's job. The o-ring gets presurre from one side which forces it to take a perfect shape, squeezing the right places if you like, and them forces create the the propor sealing effect. You want it to stay flexible. Hard to explain, hope you get the idea.

That sidecover gasket can be in the way for the O-ring and may need a little TLC with a stanley balde.

Anders, DK

bushmechanic · Sep 15, 2009

to test if there is water in oil, soak some paper towling in the oil and burn it

if there is water present it crackles and pops. do a few test runs with some samples

can you post a pic of the sight glass?

I got a white streak from top down on the glass with the engine off when my water pump bearing went.

the milky bubbles after startup are from aeration but when the oil has heated up to 70 degC or so it shouldn't have any bubbles in the sight glass. doesn't in my bike with delo400.

MPM_Andrew · Sep 17, 2009

And the winner is.....

Bobzilla!

4 changes of oil following a good flush with Diesel fuel and no more milky oil.

Total fluids required to flush the system following muppet install of water pump seal (put it in backwards) - 12 litres of oil, 1 litre of methylated spirits, 1 can of carby cleaner, 3 litres of diesel and a bottle of engine flush. Thank god for stainless steel oil filters.

I suspect the problem was some methylated spirits used to get rid of the coolant in the first instance didn't evaporate properly.

Thanks all for the assistance - every tip was helpful in trying to resolve this very frustrating saga.

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Milky Oil, No Coolant???

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