Metal chunks on drain plug

I would pull the pickup filter screen and see what is in there. A better image of the flakes on the plug may also help in IDing what they may be.

That is concerning. Obvious sources are going to be bearing surfaces or clutch.

I had that type of crap on my drain plug from new all the time until even after Orange berg fixed the main bearing and still many more km than that.
What I believe that it was, or only could be was the ends of the gear teeth, they were just as wide and came off in one piece, like a needle like, I could press down on them with my fingers and nearly went through my skin and I always had lots of metal fluff around the magnet. but then it came a lot less.
The only bike that I remember having a magnet on the drain plug was a Suzuki DRZ400E that I bought new and I never seen much metal crud build up on that as the berg did have and I changed the berg oil much more often, around 300KM mainly.

When I bought my 450 berg it would not rev out like it did after orange berg did it up, so what happened was that the crank was trying to bust the main bearings and that's why it could not rev out like it does now, it would get real nasty and just try to shake it's self to apart at max rev. now it must rev 3000 rpm more and is smooth but not as smooth as a Jap 450 are.
So if you think that it may be a main bearing maybe it will be like mine was and not want to rev right out.

It was like it would rev out to harshness and then I would change up and it would be just within the power band to ride quick and at times a little under that, but now I ride it at about the same rev as or a touch more and it's quick as it has good torque and grunt and only use the last 3000rpm if I really have to keep someone at bay or real big hill climes.

do another oil change and you'll get a better idea. do the cheap ideas first.

Taffy

you could still only be losing a small bolt out of the cam sprocket. it is there to stop the decomp weight. the signs of copper should narrow it down but I'm struggling to think what could let copper go and still operate OK? that would explain a lot of steel and some copper.

there's a chance that the previous owner did some DIY and dropped a copper washer and it is nothing.

Taffy

When I blew a motor due to lack of water some of the chrome particles on the oil screen were copper coloured due I presumed to excessive heat. Just an idea

Copper or brass looking particles are the small guide Bush for the clutch pushrod inside the gearbox input Shaft. Older bikes than yours have bushes inside the rocker arms too but they don't chunk like that

Check the copper with a magnet if it sticks it’s not copper

Same thinking with my 450, nothing in the oil filter. Always have those debrit. I play à lot with thé clutch in technical trail.
Can some one tell me if it's clutch partical?
Thé clutch was very hot dit make some noise à few minutes after à hard muddy ride.

please measure the length of your oil straibner? is it 83mm or longer?

Metal like that can still be from anything. it is important that you know your bike and keep cleaning the magnet. by the third oil change if you still have that you have an ongoing problem. main bearings are the usual culprit.

Taffy

Dan0995 said:

Same thinking with my 450, nothing in the oil filter. Always have those debrit. I play à lot with thé clutch in technical trail.
Can some one tell me if it's clutch partical?
Thé clutch was very hot dit make some noise à few minutes after à hard muddy ride.

Click to expand...

looks like your bike ate a spring.
my guess it is the spring in the oil pressure relief valve.

Hi Taff,

The part size is 81 x 14 mm.
Yes the engine overheat and stall for minimum 30 min. My radiator seems to have a small leak when it's hot and I was riding with maybe half of the prestone needed. The mud under the engine and the guard didn't help.

It's seems like a small spring destroyed by compression.
It's there a way to inspect the bypass oil pressure spring?

The bike start at the first or second crank when cold.

The partical are there at least since 2 old change change every 10-12h. I'll make a 4h ride this week-end. Maybe I'll flush the oil and see if it's coming back.

If still there, I should split the engine? New bearing in prevention?

there is an oil drain UNDER the engine. this can be seen on page 20 of the engine parts book and item number 42; 58038023300

I suspect this spring is missing. if not tthis spring then look through the parts book and chase for others.

Taffy

Hi,

3h ride, flush oil, again small parts. See image.

Is it normal that oil strainer is a bit loose? The rubber seems not to make any difference.

No drain plug under the engine. See image, only a small hole.

Should I remove the hydrolic clutch system the reatch the oil pressure spring, I guest it's that bolt? See image

Thanks!

Daniel

don't touch that screw under the engine.

the drain is on the right hand side at the bottom but most definately not underneath.

not sure what the problem is but just keep riding it and changing oil. to check the mains you can put it on the sidestand, take the ignition cover off and grab the flywheel, try and clonk it up and down...other than that, keep riding it. it's going to go one of two ways isn't it?

cheers

Taffy

Greetings from NH. I am new to the forum and this is my first post. Riding a 2014 Husaberg FE350 that I picked up used at about 3000 miles and 130 hours. I put around 500 miles and 25 hours on it over the past year. Recently noticed some tough upshifts as well as some "strange" noises. I'm new to 4 strokes so unsure if normal noises or not.
Anyway, just changed oil and found metallic slivers on magnetic drain plug. Screen was clean and no significant debris on my oil filter. Running Bel Ray 4T Thumper 10w50. How alarmed should I be?