Mechanics??

ajt · Dec 13, 2004

I friend was riding my 650FE 02, and it locked up, then restarted making some unusual noise. I drained the oil and it had a lot of flakes but no junks.I am going to pull it apart. I have split the cases on my 520, although I am not a mechanic, but I like to fiddle. Is there anything special I need to pull the motor apart and/or anything I should be carefull of?
Thanx

ajt · Dec 13, 2004

Oh yeah I have downloaded the 04 Engine rebuild manual, I know there was some changes but it should make for a great reference.

berger · Dec 13, 2004

You can order the factory manual. I just got one last week, it was like 11 bucks. Well worth it.

mikst · Dec 14, 2004

You can download the 01-03 workshop manual as well at Husaberg.se.
That one isn't very good. The -04 workshop manual is good and that's the only one you need. I have followed it and it works if you use your brain. The different clearances etc you take from the downloaded 01-03 manual.

ajt · Dec 18, 2004

Ok I have the 650 apart, looks like the counter balancer bearing let loose. The motor has aproximately 110 hours. Everything looks really good, I can still see the original cross-hatching on the cylinder, and all the bearings and gears look really good. I will double check everything to make sure that the debris didn't do any damage. Besides the updated Rocker-arms, steel timing gear, and double-counter balancer bearing, (timing chain?) what do you guys recommend I replace while I have her apart. Should I replace all of the bearings just to be safe? How about the wristpin or maybe a set of rings?

I am planning on riding the cr*p out of this thing and want it ready to go for next year! So any advice as to help make this thing fresh again, would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanxs,
Adam

mikst · Dec 19, 2004

With the knowledge today I wouldn't have replaced the counter balancer bearings. These two bearings are more expensive than the main bearings and considered the earlier posts; you don't need the counter balancer. Next time I need to split the engine I will balance the crank instead.

Replace the crankshaft sprocket as well. If the chain is worn the sprockets are worn too. I had a steel sprocket but it's worn so I will replace the whole timing device. With the information I have got this far you have two options regarding the timing chain. A Regina C121HCS or the DID used in -05. Regina is used in model -92-01. By the way, when I asked for a camshaft sprocket they told me that I would get the -05 sprocket. If it's better or equal time will show.

Camshaft bearings, clips gudgeon pin, ball bearing counter balancer driving shaft, ball bearings crankshaft and the ball bearing water pump are critical, I have been told. I also replaced all o-rings/seal rings, which keep the water and oil apart or are parts of the lubrication system. You can replace the main ball bearings with roller bearings but then you need to assemble the engine more carefully and measure the clearance.

ajt · Dec 19, 2004

Thanx mikst!

How about the timing chain tensioner, is there an updated longer one? Mine was all the way extended.

ajt · Dec 19, 2004

I heard that the lighter(?) 470 balancer would work better because there is less rotating mass, that combined with the updated bearing should be good? Any thoughts Dale?

mikst · Dec 19, 2004

In Taffy's gallery you have a modified tensioner. It's longer and the tip is made of steel. The -04 tensioner could perhaps be better if you will replace your tensioner. It's different but I haven't seen any in real life so I cannot compare the length.

Do you have a single bearing balancer? You can probably update that one with some effort to a double bearing. Otherwise you need a new driving shaft counter balancer as well. In Sweden an up date to a double bearing is around 575USD.

If you replace the balancer you probably need to re-balance the crankshaft.

DaleEO · Dec 19, 2004

AJT,

With 110 hours on the motor, and your intentions to ride the heck out of the bike I would do the following:

Valve job- Take it to someone who knows what the heck they are doing. I'm betting that the original valves are just about ready to be replaced. It has been my experience that one needs a valve job about every 60 to 70 hours. I think you will be surprised to see what they look like. Can you say tulip? The stock Husaberg valve guides are a little soft, the guy who does my head work replaces them with BMW M3 valve guides. Your valve guy will have to cut them down to fit but they last allot longer.

Cam bearings:

Piston & rings: Measure and see, at least replace rings.

Main bearings: I went to roller bearings.

Counter balancer: I went to the double row bearing.

Cam chain, cam gear, and cam chain driving gear on counter shaft:

Trans Bearings: For the amount of money that it would cost you to replace the bearing at a bearing house I'd replace them all:

Connecting Rod: I believe the manual says to replace it at 100 hours. Replae the wrist pin while you're at it. Be sure and check the play that might exist between wrist pin and the piston.

Think about replacing the needle jet, and needle as well. They should be pretty worn out about now which would make the bike run rich.

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