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Maintenence Intervals FE390?

Joined Jun 2010
139 Posts | 1+
Canberra Australia
I am looking at buying a FE390. What are the service intervals like for the valves for a casual trail rider - are they easy to check? Is the bike easy to live with?

Is there a manual on this site?


Thanx in advance
Fizz
 
Thanks for the link, but it doesn't show the 2010 FE390. The manual for the other models shows piston replacement every 90 hrs (thats every 10 rides) - wow.

Does anyone have the 2010 FE390 manual? And have experience on maintenance.

Thanks
 
fizz said:
The manual for the other models shows piston replacement every 90 hrs (thats every 10 rides) - wow.
Don't have the 2010 manual or any personal experience, but I did ask a UK dealer and they said nobody replaces the piston (and various bearings) just because the bike has done a set number of hours despite what it says in the manual. They said they'd expect to get at least 150 hours before changing those parts (still not a lot admittedly) but in practice they would only change them when you start to get problems such as a bearing rumbling, and that could be a long time if it's well treated. Hopefully someone who's got a 390 can tell you how far they actually got on the original piston...

Of course, depending on where you are and what warranty you get you may take a different view if you think that not following the guidelines is going to void your warranty for anything that goes wrong in the engine. Not much chance of needing to worry about that in the UK though, unless you're planning to do more than 90hrs within the 30-day warranty period.
 
Member Dustbite runs a tour company down in Portugal and uses the 450 and 570's. He got about 500 hours out of his bikes before having to re ring his bikes, of which he has 4, two 450's and two570's. One 450 needed a cylinder. He's still riding them on the original lower ends and heads and valves.

Follow the maint schedule in your owners manual as far as oil changes, valve adjustments, and keep the air cleaner, clean.

Go ride.
 
fizz said:
I am looking at buying a FE390. What are the service intervals like for the valves for a casual trail rider - are they easy to check? Is the bike easy to live with?

Is there a manual on this site?


Thanx in advance
Fizz

The manual says check Valves on 2010 FE390, FE450, FE570 after first 3 Hours then every 15 Hours.
The dealer checked mine after 3 Hours, said they did not need adjusting. Havn't had them check since and has 20 Hours on it.
Never had a ride on the 390 but the 570 is real easy to live with!!! Crack the throttle open and it goes like the wind, or just chug up a steep rocky hill slow, it does it all. No need to even change the sprockets.
 
Valve lash is easy just remove fuel tank and unbutton radiators ( mounting bolts only leave the hoses connected ) loosen 4 bolts on the cover and you're away. There are markings on the head and cam that will give you tdc and there is even a provision for locking the crank at tdc. It's a two beer job.
 
I checked my valved at 3 hours=no problem

checked them again at 40 hours= slight increase in lash to max limit

checked again at 70 or 80 hours, = one exhaust .0005", yes 5/10,000 too loose, had them reset to minimum.

The intakes have not moved since the first 3 hours.

Dustbites bikes with 500 hours needed only to "replace" the exhaust shims, as they distorted slightly.

Others have reported in the hundreds of hours without valve adjustment needed.

To me this further proves that the fine dust that get's into the fuel via the vent tubes on carbbed bikes is the main cluprit for valve wear.

The snow bike conversions of regular carbbed bikes have also reported hundreds of hours of operation without valve adjustment as well.
 
DaleEO said:
Member Dustbite runs a tour company down in Portugal and uses the 450 and 570's. He got about 500 hours out of his bikes before having to re ring his bikes, of which he has 4, two 450's and two570's. One 450 needed a cylinder. He's still riding them on the original lower ends and heads and valves.

Follow the maint schedule in your owners manual as far as oil changes, valve adjustments, and keep the air cleaner, clean.

Go ride.


That is impressive what sort of oil does he use? I know a mechanic/honda lover who is now blaming breathers for their short valve life.
 
HELP ME PLEASE......hi can anyone kindly help me? I removed the filter that is located on the rigid tube that lubricates the distribution but I don't remember its meaning any more since from a top it is plugged, I would like to know its right position thanks in advance to those who can help me.
 
HELP ME PLEASE......hi can anyone kindly help me? I removed the filter that is located on the rigid tube that lubricates the distribution but I don't remember its meaning any more since from a top it is plugged, I would like to know its right position thanks in advance to those who can help me.

I guess you are talking about the filter in the heads banjo bolt?
Closed end up. That filter and liner is to suck excess oil from the head.
 
I recently bought a somehow neglected 390 fe, what a lovely machine, I want to squeeze from it lot of life so I must put it back together to a nice level.
I noticed the CCT sounds (the clack sound) so I ordered the Tricky CCT and its on the way. I wonder if I also shoud replace distribution chain as well.
Also my magura clutch is leaking through the rubber hood where the lever connects to the clutch. I wonder, is it worth repairing or just order a new one?
Definitively im not profficient in clutch fixing, is a task for the garage that I would love to do myself, but I rather pay for expert hands 1st than paying twice for fixing what I destroyed.
Thanks for the advice, greetings from Lithuania
 
G'day Franco-

All Balls make a master cylinder repair kit, just make sure you clean out the bore of the cylinder properly. Easy job, you just need circlip pliers. Bleed system from the slave cylinder with syringe- buy a 60ml one from pharmacy/ chemist shop/ drug store in US speak. They should be bled like your brakes at least once a year, no one ever does it enough.

Standard cam chain tensioner is good, suffers from sticking if oil not changed enough or bike left idle for too long. They are actually a hydraulic system so work well in all temperatures where it's hard to adjust manual ones correctly. You shouldn't have to change the cam chain unless the bike has lots of hours or was thrashed (that's Oz for ridden hard)
 
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Excelent, I will try to get this clutch master cyinder kit, Im looking for new clutch prices and are not cheap. Also the clutch cable is a bit torn next to the handlebar, but its only cosmetical so ill keep it as it is.
CCT arrived and was installed by myself, more easy than I thought.
One enduro muddy track sent me to the ground and I lost for good the rear right blinker, I wonder if anyone may suggest me any type, there are many option but for me I just need durables (I Believe the standard ones are not flexible, hence they break after first stress.

Thanks
 
These are the biz- sold heaps when I was in KTM/ Berg shop, on my 570 as well, bright and durable, easy fit.

DRC moto led 586 flasher
drc-moto-led-586-led-flasher
 
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This was s'posed to be in that post- told you I was hopeless at this stuff!
 

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