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Main Bearings

i use silkolene , i always have and i always will .

people on this site also use delo 400 or motul or bel-ray and so on .

the secret is to use a top quality brand, and frequent oil changes .
 
Fry,
Dale says it is not just the fuel quality,fuel quality may just magnify the problem.
The issue "high static compression and short duration cam" turns the engine into a lugger.Its not how you ride it .It is what it is.
The solution is "longer duration cams and remove material from the combustion chamber".
When the engine is then running under less static compression stress it becomes smoother,then take the balancer and throw it in the bin as it is no longer needed Then you are probably getting close to a works motor.
 
NS gottya, but in a standard configuration, fuel quality is important, to build to a certain spec is another topic. All fine points. The only problem with removing the balancer is cornering. One of the main reasons that the Husaberg works so well in offroad situations, outside of chassis geometry and suspension setup, is the their design of balancer takes some of the gyro out of the engine, making the bike easier to turn. In a situation where the bike is flicked back and forth, this is very important.

The works motor is rather simple actually and very close to std configuration.

Take care Bruce

See ya in Chile!
 
faktor said:
Dale how does one stop this lugging from occuring etc as a rider what do i do that contributes its?

Also Jwilly I am maticulous on maintanence and change oil constantly as well as inspecton for metal material in oil what exactly are you trying to say?


Hi Faktor,
keep heavy loads (ie big throttle openings) limited to 4,000 rpm and above.

When putting (no load) run in a lower gear selection letting the engine buzz @ light throttle between 3k rpm and 5k rpm.

Hope this helps.

Dale
 
fryguy said:
NS gottya, but in a standard configuration, fuel quality is important, to build to a certain spec is another topic. All fine points. The only problem with removing the balancer is cornering. One of the main reasons that the Husaberg works so well in offroad situations, outside of chassis geometry and suspension setup, is the their design of balancer takes some of the gyro out of the engine, making the bike easier to turn. In a situation where the bike is flicked back and forth, this is very important.

The works motor is rather simple actually and very close to std configuration.

Take care Bruce

See ya in Chile!

Truth be told the gyroscopic issue regarding cornering is only true in theory. If one does the math it becomes quite obvious that given the rpm and mph said balancer in practice is worthless above an idle while under load.

Even in Motard and Mile DT the riders could not tell which bike had a balancer and which did not. (ie during triple digits the gyroscopic input was undetectable)

Regards,
Dale
 
NSMAN

i believe the plug is the first place that tells you of everything. someone like gene french could tell you what was wrong from just the plug.

the porcelien part picks up the flecs.

i WAS told that there was a low compression head gasket available for my 400 but i haven't persued this line of enquiry and as dale says, losing your squish is a detrimental step. i don't recommend octane booster on health grounds so a little avgas should do the job. here in the UK for roadracing they use a 50/50 mix but it simply isn't necessary to stop detonation. 20-25% would do at the tops.

however, avgas has to carefully looked after as it is hydroscopic and won't stay in the can long.

please don't look for a plug colour either - you won't get one with 50/50 as i have repeated;ly said here. the kokusan doesn't i believe give a plug colour and this is why nobody as i'm aware has attempted to jet their '04+ bikes as of yet.

as repeatedly said (continuously) you can only check it 4" down the open pipe and by splitting the mid section break on a system.

if knocking is only a low rev problem and at that for racers i suggest the LX1 and LX2 cam. that or i believe the tornado G2. i believe we have a new member about to try a katoom 7207 (or whatever i can't remember right now) but we may have to wait for the smell to go away first......RUWM?

also, make sure there are no sharp points etc when removing the head.

regards

Taffy
 
Hi Taffy
Sometimes when I am looking for answers I go to the aviation industry for insight.I always liked the way they do things.Since engine failures in the air result in more serious results they have developed ways to look for impending problems before they occur while in the auto/motorcycle world we tend to let things happen and then try to make changes so they dont happen again.
For instance there are reams printed on how to disect oil filters.Detonation and many other engine conditions leave very clear evidence in the paper pleats of the oil filter.Detonation also has been shown to cause high frequency vibrations and can result in excessive cam and rocker wear as well as broken valve springs(ever hear of this before)...It just got me thinking...
 
faktor

don't forget the conversation we had on the phone , the 16 - 45 gearing is way too tall for the deep sand .

if i were you i would lower the gearing to something more suitable , i would hate to see you back on here in 5000 klms with a handful of metal bits . :wink:
 
Sorry Factor,
Not sure what happened there ...... What I thought i posted went as follows..... 15/45 will drop your gearing about 1/2 a gear on what you have at the moment. It may not help you much if it is your riding conditions/style that is the problem, ie riding in a gear that may be 2 or three gears higher than you should be in. At the end of the day you may find that you just shift to a higher gear and still lug the big girl. Do you really think your riding style is the problem, or could it be that there was just a fault with the engine? It is hard to think that riding in deep sand would be the primary cause unless you continuously have the right grip wound to the stop and a motor that is struggling to pull anything more than around 1500 - 2000 rpm.

Mick
 
Light throttle, heavy load and TPS induced ignition lead will put a real hurt on hardware.

With a 41 mm carburetor even light throttle under load / low rpm will provide near 100% VE. (Volumetric Efficiency).


Mix in the TPS signal relaying a small throttle opening with a consequent total spark lead of 50 degrees and you have created the potential for failure.

Dale
 
I think he was saying to try and keep it between 3,000 & 5,000 RPM's or so for the lighter riding rather than lugging the engine in a lower RPM / higher gear...
 
LINEAWEAVER said:
Light throttle, heavy load and TPS induced ignition lead will put a real hurt on hardware.

With a 41 mm carburetor even light throttle under load / low rpm will provide near 100% VE. (Volumetric Efficiency).


Mix in the TPS signal relaying a small throttle opening with a consequent total spark lead of 50 degrees and you have created the potential for failure.

Dale

Dale will one of your cams fix this problem and can i use it with my standard 05 650 head and valves?

Thanks
 
faktor ....

let me step in and say ... disconnect the tps , i did and recieve a berg with better manners .
 

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