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Main Bearings

OK, some advice please then from those who may know to those who dont,

DO you think the modifications made to the 2007 FE models are going to fix this problem ??

I really need to know what the collective opinion is as I will soon be laying down my hard earned cash on either a FE650 (the current preference apart from this reliability issue) or a 525 EXC (a bike I am pretty sure I can make last 5,500 km of racing mode)

PLEASE advise ASAP
 
You will be fine even with an older modle providing you have taken the time
to go through your scoot your self.Like dale stated most of the problems
have occured with guy's on tarmac,just try to ride a 650 in the dirt like guy's do
in supermoto & we will be visiting you in the hospital or worse.

Gear it,jet it,have your dealer give you the info he has reguarding the issues
know to be problematic,address them,use good common sense & you will
have a great time with your new berg! I am! Good luck, be safe, & please
let us know how it goes down Gazza!
 
looking at skf.com finding this on the cage material Polyamide isnt it the brown plastic known many bike that not have steel or brass cages!!. can it be a problem with it?
looks strange if they say that some syntetic oil can be a problem ? if they break down the material?

Single row cylindrical roller bearings with polyamide 6,6 cages can be operated at operating temperatures up to +120 °C. The lubricants generally used for rolling bearings do not have a detrimental effect on cage properties, with the exception for a few synthetic oils and greases with synthetic base oil as well as some lubricants containing a high proportion of EP additives when used at elevated temperatures.

here is a link were i find it.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod ... ink=1_4_11

regards
 
BOSS said:
You will be fine even with an older modle providing you have taken the time
to go through your scoot your self.Like dale stated most of the problems
have occured with guy's on tarmac,just try to ride a 650 in the dirt like guy's do
in supermoto & we will be visiting you in the hospital or worse.

Gear it,jet it,have your dealer give you the info he has reguarding the issues
know to be problematic,address them,use good common sense & you will
have a great time with your new berg! I am! Good luck, be safe, & please
let us know how it goes down Gazza!
Click to expand...


Ditto!
I could not have said it better myself.

Cheers,
Dale
 
Something that is never spoken of here concerning Husaberg engine failures including main bearing failures is the reasonably high compression of the Husaberg engines.With ratios in the area of 12:1 fuel grade selection and fuel quality must be very important.
Detonation damage will not only show itself in piston failures but also increased wear on every moving part in the engine.
I have read that the first tell tail sign of mild detonation is a constant supply of tin like flakes in the oil filter.In the part of the world I live in the quality of fuel is on the thin line of what is acceptable for Berg engine at the best of times.
Has anyone ever contemplated bring the compression down a point or two to help with crank bearing failures,extend rod bearing life rad boil over etc....any thoughts.
 
nsman said:
Something that is never spoken of here concerning Husaberg engine failures including main bearing failures is the reasonably high compression of the Husaberg engines.With ratios in the area of 12:1 fuel grade selection and fuel quality must be very important.
Detonation damage will not only show itself in piston failures but also increased wear on every moving part in the engine.
I have read that the first tell tail sign of mild detonation is a constant supply of tin like flakes in the oil filter.In the part of the world I live in the quality of fuel is on the thin line of what is acceptable for Berg engine at the best of times.
Has anyone ever contemplated bring the compression down a point or two to help with crank bearing failures,extend rod bearing life rad boil over etc....any thoughts.
Click to expand...


Hi Bruce,
I have seen a number of late model Husaberg engines severely damaged as a result of detonation.

The high static compression ratio and short duration camshaft are an open invitation to lugging.

Lugging such an engine ( in particularly while below full throttle ie "off the rich main jet" and on the big end of the TPS ignition advance) will often create inaudible detonation with disastrous results.

Good example thanks to Faktor:
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=5638

Regards,
Dale
 
Hi Dale,
Since there is not a selection of head gaskets to choose from.To accomblish the task of lowering the ratio,what is the best direction to take?.I took a few moments to measure the piston crown thickness today at work and it is 4.25mm.in the centre of the piston.Would it be a poor idea to spin .25 mm off the piston crown?Will this unduly weaken the piston?
 
nsman said:
Hi Dale,
Since there is not a selection of head gaskets to choose from.To accomblish the task of lowering the ratio,what is the best direction to take?.I took a few moments to measure the piston crown thickness today at work and it is 4.25mm.in the centre of the piston.Would it be a poor idea to spin .25 mm off the piston crown?Will this unduly weaken the piston?
Click to expand...

I decrease dynamic trapping @ lower rpm via a camshaft with substantial duration and overlap.

Mechanically I open up the combustion chamber which also serves to unshod the valves and provide improved breathing on the top end.

Disconnecting the TPS will reduce fuel economy, however, lessens the tendency to detonate and makes the "big singles" more manageable offroad.

I do not recommend stacking gaskets, etc. as such will increase the squish area and actually provoke detonation even with the reduction in static compression.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Dale
 
LINEAWEAVER said:
Lugging such an engine ( in particularly while below full throttle ie "off the rich main jet" and on the big end of the TPS ignition advance) will often create inaudible detonation with disastrous results.
Click to expand...
So revving the engine is actually less damaging to it? Or have I missed the point.

I ride supermoto, and was concerned about revving the engine too much, now I can relax a bit more (if my assumption is correct).
 
Dale

Can you elaborate on 'inaudible detonation' please? I've always been lead to believe that pinging sounded like a hammer on an anvil, but as this thread carried on, I was wondering if detonation could occur with being heard, and then, there is your comment. I'm all ears.

fry
 
fryguy said:
Dale

Can you elaborate on 'inaudible detonation' please? I've always been lead to believe that pinging sounded like a hammer on an anvil, but as this thread carried on, I was wondering if detonation could occur with being heard, and then, there is your comment. I'm all ears.

fry
Click to expand...

Hi Fry,
Often mild detonation takes place without the audible "ping". Such is particularly true with water cooled engines as the jacket contains and dampens the warning shot.

In addition other noise (exhaust, intake, heavy breathing, etc.) can mask detonation.

Many "heating issues" can be traced to detonation. High frequency vibration (ie cylinder ringing) reduces the heat transfer ability from liner to coolant.

Late model automobiles rely on "Ion Sensing" technology which picks up the detonation way before one can hear it. The ignition lead is reduced accordingly all without you knowing it. Such is why you may run low octane fuel and only notice a lack in performance and mileage as opposed to a holed piston and / or broken rod.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dale

PS
And you thought I was just another pretty face. :D
 
In aircraft they are always wary of excessive high manifold pressures,high rpm with no load and induced lean mixtures.Hence the need for a guage package that boggles.
 
jwilly said:
Or I supose we could just let everything just run its course and wait for the break-down. As the world leaders did with the terrorists. Wait until its too late and then look for blame elsewhere. Which is why proper-setup and a regular maintenance program will prevent MOST issues. If you dump yor oil and its full of steel, I guess its OK to load up for 1 last ride then blame the bike and Husaberg for the failure. The oil change is a sign from God to let you know your engine is pissed and needs some TLC
Click to expand...

Looks like I may be a bit late due to being out of town but................
This is a Motorcycle Mechanical Fourm

lets keep it on that

If you have political or social comments please take them to Jo mamma on adv rider ot towne square on TT

Sorry to be a Pri*k but thems tha rulz
 
Well, there I go, poor fuel and inaudible detonation nets some damaged internal parts. Now will someone debate the cost of buying good fuel vs rebuilding your engine more often.....no don't, lets just do it right the first time.

Consistant fuel quality would solve a lot of peoples problems, beyond engine reliability, like overheating, jetting inconsistancies, fuel economy.... the list goes on
 
fryguy said:
Well, there I go, poor fuel and inaudible detonation nets some damaged internal parts. Now will someone debate the cost of buying good fuel vs rebuilding your engine more often.....no don't, lets just do it right the first time.

Consistant fuel quality would solve a lot of peoples problems, beyond engine reliability, like overheating, jetting inconsistancies, fuel economy.... the list goes on
Click to expand...

Such is indeed a very mixed back with delicate balance.

Quite different to other offerings featuring less compression and heavier hardware.

Ferrari vs Ford Escort.

Dale
 
so what will it be fry?

your dilemma - you know?

LX1 or LX2?

i reckon you should try the top end one as i have the lugger and it's great but if you're an animal with the bike and revs i reckon the top end one would do the job nicely.

(by the way i forget what i have and forgot which way round!)

and a reminder to all folks, dealers as well ..... you can wait 6-months to a year for an indispensible gem from lineaweaver like that but it's worth waiting. this site badly needs to maintain a high standard with high quality technical imput which only 1 or 2 can offer.

keep it real dudes.

nice touch about the terrorists Jwilly.....

regards

Taffy
 
Dale how does one stop this lugging from occuring etc as a rider what do i do that contributes its?

Also Jwilly I am maticulous on maintanence and change oil constantly as well as inspecton for metal material in oil what exactly are you trying to say?
 
Hey faktor,

try gearing your bike shorter by a tooth or two. I used to lug out of corners on my KTM in 3rd, sure the bike would pull hard eventually but it had a slog getting there. I found I did less clutch work also helping with oil life.
 

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