Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
you can take material out of the seat. this is the cheapest and easiest. also some really soft material in the seat will keep the original shape!
the next one you can do yourself, you must drop both ends equally and that takes a lot of careful measuring.
forks
you can remove the preload from the caps
put softer springs in
raise the legs a long way through the yokes/TCs. (to get the handlebars further clear of the top of the forks you need bar risers but to then have very flat 'dragster' type bars)
on the rear
simply unwind the spring
put the softest spring in for your weight.
you can do all this. just keep using the measuring tape and checking your race sag (with you on it) as well as static sag.
put your weight up here and maybe we can help with the spring weights?
regards
Taffy
the next one you can do yourself, you must drop both ends equally and that takes a lot of careful measuring.
forks
you can remove the preload from the caps
put softer springs in
raise the legs a long way through the yokes/TCs. (to get the handlebars further clear of the top of the forks you need bar risers but to then have very flat 'dragster' type bars)
on the rear
simply unwind the spring
put the softest spring in for your weight.
you can do all this. just keep using the measuring tape and checking your race sag (with you on it) as well as static sag.
put your weight up here and maybe we can help with the spring weights?
regards
Taffy
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 3+
Berkshire, England
The best way is to insert a collar that sits internally in the suspension parts and that restricts the extended length of the component. As a result you might need to cut down the length of the springs in order to avoid increasing the pre-load unnecessarily. Obviously, you need to make sure you don't restrict the movement so much that you haven't got enough travel any more, especially if you plan to ride dirt and jump it.
The collar can be made really easily using some aluminium or stainless sheet cut to the right length and then rolled - you can then experiment as you wish with the best length for you. As you shorten the front suspension there will be minor changes to the front end handling characteristics (like raising the forks in the triple clamps).
The other suggestions Taffy makes will all adversely affect handling if you're in any way demanding of the bike.
Hope this helps,
Simon
The collar can be made really easily using some aluminium or stainless sheet cut to the right length and then rolled - you can then experiment as you wish with the best length for you. As you shorten the front suspension there will be minor changes to the front end handling characteristics (like raising the forks in the triple clamps).
The other suggestions Taffy makes will all adversely affect handling if you're in any way demanding of the bike.
Hope this helps,
Simon
this was hard english for me. i will try to make it out. how much do you think i can lower it without making any "big" changes to the riding of the bike?
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
if you purchase a used 'light' spring for the rear and fit it with zero preload you'll have lowered the bike.
you can raise the forks through the clamps by just over 1". removing preload will do no harm.
these will affect the bike only slightly if any. simon said "if you are demanding" this is true of any machine.
you must decide!
regards
Taffy
you can raise the forks through the clamps by just over 1". removing preload will do no harm.
these will affect the bike only slightly if any. simon said "if you are demanding" this is true of any machine.
you must decide!
regards
Taffy
w/p makes all the parts to lower your bike 1 & 2 ". Im taking my ktm in today to get it lowered 1". My dealer has had the parts on order for a few weeks .My 07 fs650e fits me well, but my 450 exc is just too tall.I even bought the 20mm lower factory seat . I will get the pn# of what it takes . I have no clue if it will fit the berg but its a start .I do know that the parts came direct from w/p & not ktm.
I dont & I asked my ktm guy about lowering the berg & he said he has O clue . Looking @ the parts its just shorter springs & shorter needles .Cool thing is he races & weighs the same as I do height is the same also So he should get the bike right the first time .Also installing a Z-start pro auto clutch
I spoke to the WP importers in the UK yesterday, located in Bury St Edmunds, as mine is a bit high for me. They suggested checking the sag on the rear suspension as the rear spring may have too much preload applied. I'll check this and go from there however I'll be interested in the parts that you are being advised are required. Otherwise I'll have to invest in some platform boots.
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 3+
Berkshire, England
Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
You will also need the sleeves as I have said above. Why? Because otherwise your suspension will over extend whenever the bike rises. They're simply a length of tube that, on the front end for example, slots over the stanchions internally and, if you want, you can make them any length you like. What the collars do is restrict the extended length of the suspension which has to be done if you install shorter springs.
But whatever you do, you fit only shorter internals at your own peril......
As I said before, if you have already set up your suspension properly, re-adjusting spring, spring pre-load, damping etc. for height will affect its handling.
Why do I know this? Because in the European supermoto scene this is what has been done to suspension since the beginning of time - particularly before any sm bikes were available out of the crate and the only stock was mx stuff. :roll:
All the best,
Simon
drgnrydr said:
You will also need the sleeves as I have said above. Why? Because otherwise your suspension will over extend whenever the bike rises. They're simply a length of tube that, on the front end for example, slots over the stanchions internally and, if you want, you can make them any length you like. What the collars do is restrict the extended length of the suspension which has to be done if you install shorter springs.
But whatever you do, you fit only shorter internals at your own peril......
As I said before, if you have already set up your suspension properly, re-adjusting spring, spring pre-load, damping etc. for height will affect its handling.
Why do I know this? Because in the European supermoto scene this is what has been done to suspension since the beginning of time - particularly before any sm bikes were available out of the crate and the only stock was mx stuff. :roll:
All the best,
Simon
RE: Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
I just called him & he said that he will put the complete parts list down & it will totally lower the bike & reduce the travel as well ???
I just called him & he said that he will put the complete parts list down & it will totally lower the bike & reduce the travel as well ???
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 3+
Berkshire, England
Re: RE: Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
Yes, it will reduce travel - you're in essence pulling in the stanchions. You'd also loose travel if you did things like raise the forks in the yokes but then you could also risk grounding out when you land a jump. The loss of slight travel is not an issue in sm.
Simon
drgnrydr said:
Yes, it will reduce travel - you're in essence pulling in the stanchions. You'd also loose travel if you did things like raise the forks in the yokes but then you could also risk grounding out when you land a jump. The loss of slight travel is not an issue in sm.
Simon
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
I understand what you are saying & completely agree.The guy that has my bike now is lowering another bike besides mine & has been a racer & ktm dealer for over 30 years ,hopefully he knows whats up
I understand what you are saying & completely agree.The guy that has my bike now is lowering another bike besides mine & has been a racer & ktm dealer for over 30 years ,hopefully he knows whats up
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 3+
Berkshire, England
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
The FS rear shock uses a shorter spring, including different rebound disk and bump seal. Obviously internals such as the shims, tube and needle are also exchanged for shorter components.
Hope this helps,
Simon
spanner said:
The FS rear shock uses a shorter spring, including different rebound disk and bump seal. Obviously internals such as the shims, tube and needle are also exchanged for shorter components.
Hope this helps,
Simon
Joined Jun 2008
1K Posts | 98+
Simi Valley Ca.
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
I just picked up this thread from Feb. Anyway I mentioned this before on lowering without taking foam out of the seat. Im 5'10'' and I was still a little on toes with my FE. Being a Painter/Bodyman I cut the plastic hooks off the bottom of the seat and very carefully grinded away over 1/2 inch. You can't do much more and make this work. I then fiberglassed them back on, making sure they were the same hight. They are close. Now when I install the seat i need to push a little more down in the middle to hook it on the metal tabs. Works good and I sit a little lower. As for the high footpegs, well thats doesn't seem to be a problem. What I like is being able to feel comfortable in berms and tight trails and being able to stop at a light with one foot almost flat on the ground
Pollo
I just picked up this thread from Feb. Anyway I mentioned this before on lowering without taking foam out of the seat. Im 5'10'' and I was still a little on toes with my FE. Being a Painter/Bodyman I cut the plastic hooks off the bottom of the seat and very carefully grinded away over 1/2 inch. You can't do much more and make this work. I then fiberglassed them back on, making sure they were the same hight. They are close. Now when I install the seat i need to push a little more down in the middle to hook it on the metal tabs. Works good and I sit a little lower. As for the high footpegs, well thats doesn't seem to be a problem. What I like is being able to feel comfortable in berms and tight trails and being able to stop at a light with one foot almost flat on the ground
Pollo
Joined Jun 2008
1K Posts | 98+
Simi Valley Ca.
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Lowering Fs650e
For those who want to try this and are not familiar with fiberglass that much here's a few tips. After cutting off the plastic hooks with a die grinder or mini air saw and grinding away the desired amount making sure of both hook heights, then cut into the base and hooks with die grinder slices. Criss cross them making them look kinda like the stitches on Frankensteins face. 1/4 inch deep is ok, going a little through is ok. Grind it in a little and make it ugly. The Fiberglass won't have strong adhesion unless it penetrates into the project. Use Fiberglass Mat not cloth and tear and cut pieces to fit. Mix your resin with the right amount of hardener and apply mat with resin. Put about 3 layers of wet mat on
For those who want to try this and are not familiar with fiberglass that much here's a few tips. After cutting off the plastic hooks with a die grinder or mini air saw and grinding away the desired amount making sure of both hook heights, then cut into the base and hooks with die grinder slices. Criss cross them making them look kinda like the stitches on Frankensteins face. 1/4 inch deep is ok, going a little through is ok. Grind it in a little and make it ugly. The Fiberglass won't have strong adhesion unless it penetrates into the project. Use Fiberglass Mat not cloth and tear and cut pieces to fit. Mix your resin with the right amount of hardener and apply mat with resin. Put about 3 layers of wet mat on
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