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lineweaver jetting kit

Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
we brits had a bank holiday yesterday so iwas out testing dale's jetting kit at last. hell, i've only had it 6-weeks!

dale advocates completely different pilot jetting to me, the MJ is around 0-5 less than me and i'm 10 less than everyone else so we are talking 'sharp, crisp, lively'!

i decided to keep my standard MJ and PJ system and and run just the lineweaver needle. the rest of my pilot area jetting is great with me running just a 35pj and 45paj.

the needle has a lovely smooth pick up, roll on and a light but harder pull at 3/4 throttle for me. it makes the bike feel smooth which i presume means that we never actually have a lean patch as you do with the single taper needles. a clear improvement-at least from half throttle.

i then tried going from my 'spit' of APJ to running without and noticed no difference.

next, i went to dale's PJ figures which are way higher than mine and again there was no difference except that now and again i could 'catch the motor out' and it would die and then go. i used a proper PAJ for the first time in 4 years-shoving in a #100 so i was "dead proper like!"

i had planned to test a race can that i've been loaned and have already had for 3 weeks without fitment. guess that'll also have to wait another 3 as well then!

anyway, i'll race with dale's needle and pilot jetting this next sunday. i won't touch anything else, i'll run it how dale likes it.

i can see exactly how he got the improvements because i studied the needle and of course he, like me, advocates a tiny MJ which takes BALLS to run. the major differences are from 1/2 throttle and that's why the KTM he dyno'd looked so good from halfway.

after getting initially a false feed back from the cam due to being at a MX track, i want to again reserve judgement this time till sunday night.

i won't quote any jetting sizes unless dale chooses to do so. however, in the huge jetting thread started by scully, dale's 400 jetting and mine is there.

it has taken both of us hundreds of hours to get to where we are.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
my pilot area jetting is great with me running just a 35pj and 45paj.

i then tried going from my 'spit' of APJ to running without and noticed no difference.

next, i went to dale's PJ figures which are way higher than mine and again there was no difference except that now and again i could 'catch the motor out' and it would die and then go. i used a proper PAJ for the first time in 4 years-shoving in a #100 so i was "dead proper like!"

Taffy

Hi Taffy,

The jet kit primary target is that of 501 and larger displacement engines equipped with an FCR 41. Such being said I have often found a #42 PFJ, #100 PAJ and 1.0 - 1.5 turns from seated on the PFS to be better suited to the 400 / 450.

I often rely on an adjustable PAS to fine tune the smaller bikes during transition. (most often set near 1.0 turn which is in the fixed #100 PAJ range)

Hope this helps and thank you for the honest "real world" feedback.

Best Regards,
Dale

PS
In addition the metering rod clip position often needs to be set lower (richer) than on the larger bikes.
 
hi dale

definately smoother and better from halfway (still on the needle).

i would prefer to be back on my 35PJ/45PAJ and may go there before the weekend. i found a little spot on the yamaha. at a certain revs in a certain gear i found a little extra! because i'm sure it's nigh on the same i shall possible leave as is or may even go 40/75 w/ 1.5 (or to suit!).

the needle was oddly enough, better on c4 than c3-nice one! the engine always makes a better growl as you know which used to make me say "cooer! it must be faster!". alas i found the truth out a long while ago. it'll want c4 or c5 i'm sure. probably c5 with the 145 would be a good combo.

regards

Taffy
 
i thought i'd resurrect this one for you all and sparks especially!

2/10/05
150>C4>35>45PA>1.75
145>C3.................75
145>C4....................
145>C2....................

8/10/05
.....C3.....................
.......................1.25
.......................1.75
150MJ..................... open silencer
......155MAJ.............

41mm carb
150mj>200maj>...38PJ>3/8 turn>2.5
148mj>C2>35PJ>45PA>2.5
.........C1......................

back to before 41mm
148>155>C3>35>45>2.5
#85 choke fitted
.............C1................
.............................1.5
Belmouth modification
152>..........................
145>.........................

and so there you have it:
Mk1 carb>41mm>Bergoroadracer's belmouth mod and cone airfilter>145MJ>155MAJ>lineaweaver needle on C1>35PJ>45PAJ>1.5 turns of PS>.028"/0.6mm of APJ>#85 choke for racing/first time start (but rich).

four years wrk (but not a single test for 16 months). fatbob read and weep. and you fry!!!!!!

regards

Taffy
 
Hi Taffy,

I will run it on the DMS set up first then i will retry Dales needle with your settings and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for sharing to all your hard earned settings.

Regards

Sparks.
 
taff, you were always too technical for us.
but i will be trying out some of your info on darrin's 650 w/ the fcr41 this week when i get some new pilot jets. after fixing the pipe, i am looking at the carb and other issues. it appears to have an odd assortment (to me) of jets.
 
ned37 said:
taff, you were always too technical for us.
but i will be trying out some of your info on darrin's 650 w/ the fcr41 this week when i get some new pilot jets. after fixing the pipe, i am looking at the carb and other issues. it appears to have an odd assortment (to me) of jets.

Dominic and I completely agree with you on the assortment of jets.

Darrin
 
Quote" Mk1 carb>41mm>Bergoroadracer's belmouth mod and cone airfilter>145MJ>155MAJ>lineaweaver needle on C1>35PJ>45PAJ>1.5 turns of PS>.028"/0.6mm of APJ>#85 choke for racing/first time start (but rich)."

I'm very surprised you are having success with Dale's needle on C1. This looks like it would take significant throttle opening before the needle taper becomes effective. This certainly requires some pump squirt to avoid a lean bog. I am trying to get it correct without the pump.

This begs the question: how much throttle should be used for the snap wheelie test?
1/8, 1/4, 1/2 of the available travel? I wonder if it's possible to get acceptable results without the pump.
 
so neil

you are a canadian but you talk like a yank?

how can you do a snap wheelie when rolling along at half throttle. it's always been tickover, it's always been idle so come on - get it together.

as for the throttle taper - how do you know when it starts? and when it does start can you tell me where that is in relation to a D or an E series needle? do you know where those two start in relation to anything or even each other?

no bog! read my lips!

regards

Taffy
 
Mr Taffy,
I'm not trying to ruffle your feathers. I understand the snap test is done at idle in first gear. I am asking how much throttle you use on your snap test; i.e. do you move the throttle only slightly to do a snap?

There is very little to differentiate Canucks from Yanks, same radio, same TV, same vehicles, similar stores etc.

PM sent regarding needle taper.
 
there is no point in going beyond a blip because that is all that it can help the test with. of course i might continue riding up through the gears but that initial snap TO PRODUCE A WHEELIE is why we're there!

i have plenty of charts mate thanks. point is still: do you know where dale's taper starts relevant to those others i mentioned?

the needle straight is slightly rich on mine i feel even though i coded it as halfway between an R and an S straight.

for a genuine log-jumping SNAP you can't get the jetting right without the APJ. however, the truth is so distorted that right now it is yet again being misconstrued in someone's head!

you only need a spit of it. best to try and set the carb without it and then add it afterwards.

regards

Taffy
 
OK we have reached the meat and potatoes. Excuse me all to hell, but when I read you had been testing Dale's needle, I thought you were testing his kit. The kit is based on removing the pump rod and I thought you had done this.

I had assumed that some tweaking of the PAJ was able to make the snap test work (no pump). I figured you must have found a different way to set it up.

The loss of vacuum on a qiuck twist requires that some fuel must be added from the pump. I was keen on Dale's kit because of the possibility of operation without the pump squirt. I agree with your findings as to the pilot jet size; Dale is way too rich with a 48. I had a minimum squirt when I first tried his setup and the soot in the exhaust was unbelievable. Even without the squirt it's bad. A 42 was a noticeable improvement. I can see how the 35 or 38 are best when the pump is used.

I thought Dale's needle might have managed to change the non-pump low speed operation. Obviously there's no free lunch. Sorry to have created a tempest in a teacup. I did discover that the Berg motor is remarkably tolerant of incorrect jetting.
 
Hi Neil,

Nicely put, I had the same problem when fitted Dales kit, went to a 40 pilot and this made idle and just off idle a lot better but still to rich on the needle, this when Taffy mentioned the DMS needle so I thought I would give it a try PJ 40 MJ 150 PAS just over .6 of a turn and PS 1.5 turns out this seemed to work fairly well until I did some calculations on fuel consumption bearing in mind the motor is still being run in so mainly 1-4 throttle this is when I decided to run Taffy's settings on this needle, what can I say :notworthy: :notworthy: this is defiantly in the ball park with these settings.
From clip No 4 down to 2 PJ 35 PAS just under .5 of a turn MJ 150.
I will try these settings for a while the retry Dales needle on clip No 1 and see how that fares.
But as for the AP I think it is more needed on the FE than the FS not many logs to jump on the highways well at least not in Spain anyway.

Regards

Sparks
 
well i'll tell you what, i had the carb off tonight and guess what - it isn't working. infact everytimne i take the carb off it isn't working, yet because i set it up w/o the apj i'm able to say i don't notice the difference!

i slowed to a crawl to jump a log about three years ago it could be 4 or even 2. next time i turn up at a log and the apj isn't working i will curse but the next log is due in 2009.

again, you're not quite on the same lap as me. dale's kit is a needle a PJ and a MJ. so if i have the needle and i choose my own PJ and MJ i therefore have his kit still.

your flat spot is simply a sign that you are working outside the parameters and you aren't sure which way to go. all you need to do is take your time and test dilligently.

remember that your fuel is shyte compared to ours and i'm unsure as to the effect it has.

regards

Taffy
 
For what it's worth to all you out there in the good ol' US of A, I recently fitted the lineaweaver kit to my 650. I left all of the settings as prescribed by Dale's instructions, and it works like a charm. No bog, no sputtering, no dying, and it's a hoot when that needle kicks in. All in all, I give it two thumbs up. However, I do live in the same area as Dale, so it is possible that adjustments may need to be made for your particular area. After all, everyone's got their own recipe for the same dish.
 
Oh yeah, my bike is an FS. I didn't know I had to click the attach signature box. I also disconnected the TPS. Works for me!
 

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