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Learning the Importance of Loctite The Hard Way

Joined Feb 2007
166 Posts | 0+
B.C., Canada
During this long Canadian winter I tore apart the old 'berg to tackle some maintainance items before the riding season began. New intake valves, dual valve spring kit, new cam chain, new rocker arms, etc. I took the side cover off to install a Orangeberg seal kit as my waterpump seal had began to leak a steady dribbling of coolant. The other day I finally had it all back together and went for a short local ride to shakedown any problems. No weephole leaks, and the bike was running great. I started hitting a couple small jumps to try out my new suspension settings and after a landing heard a strange whirring noise. I shut the bike off and let it sit for a minute then fired it up again, no sound. Hit another jump and there it was again. i racked my brain thinking about what could possible come loose and rode back to the staging area (2 minutes). As I pull up I see oil puking out of the bottom of the motor. Uh-oh. took the bike home and pulled the sidecover off to inspect.


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Thankfully the sidecover took the brunt of the damage. There was only minor scaring to the case. Anyone guess the culprit?

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When I changed the camchain I had removed the lower guide bolt. When I put it back in I only snugged it up, was going to loctite it later. Sure enough I forgot and it vibrated out withing 40mins of engine operation.

At least it turned out to be a relatively cheap lesson. All the gears look good, no damage to anything other than the sidecover.
Loctite,loctite,loctite!!

Aaron
 
Don't worry Aaron, with a bit of careful filing that bolt will clean right up :eek:ccasion5:
 
It may not seem like it but you've got off lightly there.
Exactly the same bolt came out on my bike, result snapped cam chain, bike seized, damaged valves and inner case needing welding. I'd just had it rebuilt and wasn't happy.
 
ahoolsema

i urge you to look at the last photo. remove the black chain guide and then look at the cases. there is a chance that the left wall (9 o clock as you look) has been ripped out. it's inly 2mm wide there. whatever you do, make sure the new bolt is a snug fit. there's a chance the wall will fall out and you'll have manxbergs problem.

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: Learning the Importance of Loctite The Hard Way

Taffy said:
ahoolsema

i urge you to look at the last photo. remove the black chain guide and then look at the cases. there is a chance that the left wall (9 o clock as you look) has been ripped out. it's inly 2mm wide there. whatever you do, make sure the new bolt is a snug fit. there's a chance the wall will fall out and you'll have manxbergs problem.

regards

Taffy

Taffy,
Thanks for the heads up. I took a good look and the wall is indeed intact and looks healthy. No cracks or anything.
Ps- The bike sure was running sweet before the loose bolt issue. New Taffy dual-spring valve set-up or just a winter of no riding, I'm not sure. Sure was purring nice and power seems snappier than ever.
 
Just on the Loctite thing, it doesn't go off immediately so always a good idea to let it go off overnight if you can...just for added security.
 
on real critical bolts, where even loc tite may let go, i usually cross thread and then tack weld the fastener.
 
......and successfully make the head of the screw tamper proof by wrenching the corners off.... :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

regards

Taffy
 
tuts said:
on real critical bolts, where even loc tite may let go, i usually cross thread and then tack weld the fastener.

Yep, a friend of mine keeps telling me there are 3 types of threads....1= RH thread, 2= LH thread, 3= Cross thread
#3 works for both RH and LH threads...also keeps the weight down as no alternative thread locking is required. :lol:
 
:!: You three have just detailed the RIVET-HEADED CROSSTHREAD.

This is a special fastener that, while rarely installed, must be regularly undone. The usual application is in the least accessible position of a large pattern of bolts.

Details of the rivet-headed crossthread series can usually be found on the the rear side of any well used tap-drill chart. They are often used in applications where metricity or inchticity either cannot be determined or the installer just doesn't give a fück...

The chances of coming across them increases exponentially with the expense and/or unobtainability of the item they are installed into. Likewise the exercise of replacement of a rivet-headed crossthread invariably reveals more of them.

I understand that several Chinese companies have perfected their manufacture.

I have found that liberal use of beer helps to remove them (or at least care less when more are encountered).
 
A quick update to my situation:

I put a call into Boss and he got me the parts quickly and even cut me a break on the price. I took everyones advice and let the loctite cure overnight. Used Taffy's recommended method of installing the kickstart shaft as outlined in the Doc. Got the cover on and after 4 hours of riding no leaks, no problems.

It sure is nice to be riding again.

Aaron
 
I just finished a training package for a company in regards to Human Performance Factors in aircraft maintenance. The video that Transport Canada and the FAA have put togther in regards to stuff mechanics and engineers have left behind or forgotten to do it scary...which is why when it comes to important systems they have a proceedure of "dualing" everything. One engineer does the work and then another comes behind and goes through the whole job...just to be sure. There's no reason why a guy can't also "dual" his own work especially on a motorcycle. I never do anything without a list, and I check and recheck everything. Thats because I forgot a small oil passage gasket once and it cost me my crank bearings...ouch.
 

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