it holds the cam chain tensioner slider in place. there should be a washer behind the bolt.
are you sure it coming from that bolt and not the valve cover just above the bolt.
are you sure it coming from that bolt and not the valve cover just above the bolt.
Joined Jan 2015
277 Posts | 157+
Winnipeg, Canada
The bolt DOES NOT have bad threads... it doesn't thread into the engine case, but rather into a free-spinning nut.
Likely you need to take off the valve cover and hold the nut from the inside of the engine to remove the bolt. Be sure to apply loctite as prescribed (or some similar thread sealant). If needed, anneal the aluminum washer by heating it to approx 250 deg C, then allowing it to cool slowly. Don't go too hot or the aluminum WILL MELT (been there, done that).
Be careful... if you take that bolt out, the chain tensioner rail may fall out of place (which would require pulling the cylinder head cover off, but you're going to have to do that anyway). It would be especially bad if the "nut" on the inside fell down into the engine.
The bolt is part number 50 below (and part 22 could fall out of position when that bolt is removed). Keep in mind that part 2 pivots on part 22 and that part 2 is under tension from the timing/cam chain and the associated cam chain tensioner.
The cylinder head cover is #2 in the below photo. Be sure to do a valve adjustment while you're in there. Also, if it's time to replace your cam chain, now would be a good time. If you replace your cam chain, you can replace your cam bearings simultaneously.... just don't let the chain fall into the engine once you break the master link or you will need to pull off the side-case.
Likely you need to take off the valve cover and hold the nut from the inside of the engine to remove the bolt. Be sure to apply loctite as prescribed (or some similar thread sealant). If needed, anneal the aluminum washer by heating it to approx 250 deg C, then allowing it to cool slowly. Don't go too hot or the aluminum WILL MELT (been there, done that).
Be careful... if you take that bolt out, the chain tensioner rail may fall out of place (which would require pulling the cylinder head cover off, but you're going to have to do that anyway). It would be especially bad if the "nut" on the inside fell down into the engine.
The bolt is part number 50 below (and part 22 could fall out of position when that bolt is removed). Keep in mind that part 2 pivots on part 22 and that part 2 is under tension from the timing/cam chain and the associated cam chain tensioner.
The cylinder head cover is #2 in the below photo. Be sure to do a valve adjustment while you're in there. Also, if it's time to replace your cam chain, now would be a good time. If you replace your cam chain, you can replace your cam bearings simultaneously.... just don't let the chain fall into the engine once you break the master link or you will need to pull off the side-case.
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