Hi, I have a 2008 Husaberg 650 fe and I had a little leaking problem (oil) out of the little hole near the water pump. I open the water pump and replaced the seal, but everything together but know its leaking water (antifreeze) out of the hole. Any idea what could be the problem?
When assembling, you wrecked the waterseal/gasket.
You wrote th,at you replaced the seal.
If oil was leaking before, then the seal on the bearing was broken.
Did you replace the bearing with sealing or waterpump sealing, or both?
// Andreas/P-son
using Tapatalk 2
You wrote th,at you replaced the seal.
If oil was leaking before, then the seal on the bearing was broken.
Did you replace the bearing with sealing or waterpump sealing, or both?
// Andreas/P-son
using Tapatalk 2
Joined Dec 2004
2K Posts | 247+
back in cottonwood, az
there is an o ring on the crank that keeps the oil from coming out. the seal keeps the water from coming out. the crank has a very sharp edge on it that usually kills a seal on install unless you're lucky. get a new seal, chamfer the edge and try it again carefully with grease on the seal.
Heat a bit of heatshrink over the shaft, that's what comes with the orangeberg kit to stop pinching the seal and it works well. Just leave enough hanging so u can pull it off
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
ned37 said:
on the crank ned ? big friday night ?
I do this to the intermediate or waterpump drive shaft (can do with a file) and run an orangeberg style setup but with a bigger bearing
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
hi
the nr 60 is the water seal it keeps the water in it is good to change it
but for the oil leak it won't help .....
the inboard bearing nr 63 comes with a special seal mounted on it (not seen in parts pic)
this seal lip runs on the bearing inner race so they use an o ring between the inner race and the shaft to keep the oil from leaking out along the shaft the o ring is not in this parts pic
the orangeberg kit uses a seal that runs its sealing lips conventionally on the shaft and an alloy bearing carrier to house a smaller bearing
the nr 60 is the water seal it keeps the water in it is good to change it
but for the oil leak it won't help .....
the inboard bearing nr 63 comes with a special seal mounted on it (not seen in parts pic)
this seal lip runs on the bearing inner race so they use an o ring between the inner race and the shaft to keep the oil from leaking out along the shaft the o ring is not in this parts pic
the orangeberg kit uses a seal that runs its sealing lips conventionally on the shaft and an alloy bearing carrier to house a smaller bearing
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
this is a pic of the bearing #63 with the integrated oil seal
you can see it (the seal) does not contact the shaft hence the oring required between the bearing ID and the shaft
see the groove in the shaft in my pic above about 2mm wide? that is where the oring sits
you can see it (the seal) does not contact the shaft hence the oring required between the bearing ID and the shaft
see the groove in the shaft in my pic above about 2mm wide? that is where the oring sits
Hi, the problem is that I'm on Iceland and don't know where I can find the orangeburg kit.
I only have the original seal (nr 60), do you have part nr for the inboard bearing nr 63?
I only have the original seal (nr 60), do you have part nr for the inboard bearing nr 63?
Another thing, I did this without taking the clutch cover off. Can I not do this without taking the clutch off? Is is necessary to remove the clutch cover to get this done?
One more thing, have someone a video how this is done?
One more thing, have someone a video how this is done?
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Hi arriva
You can repair it only with that special bearing that bushie showed you.
You must take the clutch cover out. There is no other way.
And when you installed the seal without removing the cover you also ruined the seal probably.
When you see water coming out, it's that seal, when you see oil it's the seal of that bearing.
Don't forget to protect the seal from the shaft when you install the cover, I've posted a picture somewhere of that done with one heat shrink sleeve (very cheap, works very well)
I have some pict here viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14696&start=15 it might give you one idea how it goes.
If you want to make a search here, use weep hole, that how we call it here.
:cheers:
ZAGA
You can repair it only with that special bearing that bushie showed you.
You must take the clutch cover out. There is no other way.
And when you installed the seal without removing the cover you also ruined the seal probably.
When you see water coming out, it's that seal, when you see oil it's the seal of that bearing.
Don't forget to protect the seal from the shaft when you install the cover, I've posted a picture somewhere of that done with one heat shrink sleeve (very cheap, works very well)
I have some pict here viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14696&start=15 it might give you one idea how it goes.
If you want to make a search here, use weep hole, that how we call it here.
:cheers:
ZAGA
It seems like I have misunderstood this in the beginning.
In the beginning it was a little leak (oil) out off the hole, I was told that I needed to replace the seal (nr 60).
But now if I understand this right I should replace the bearing (nr 63) preferably with the integrated oil seal to fix the oil leak.
The thing I need to do now (correct me if I'm wrong) is remove the water pump cover, water pump gear, and remove the clutch cover, replace the bearing (nr 63) and the seal (nr 60), then put everything together, clutch cover, and so on....
Isn't that right?
In the beginning it was a little leak (oil) out off the hole, I was told that I needed to replace the seal (nr 60).
But now if I understand this right I should replace the bearing (nr 63) preferably with the integrated oil seal to fix the oil leak.
The thing I need to do now (correct me if I'm wrong) is remove the water pump cover, water pump gear, and remove the clutch cover, replace the bearing (nr 63) and the seal (nr 60), then put everything together, clutch cover, and so on....
Isn't that right?
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Yes it's more or less that I'm not sure, but I think you got it !!
If your problem started with oil leak, it was the bearing to be replaced.
You have to take the clutch cover out, to do that you will need to take the water pump cover out and the impeller out.
With the cover out you replace the seal and the bearing with the seal, put both on the cover first, in the correct way, then you just put the cover back in place.
The best way is to check the workshop manual, there I'm sure you have pict and a decent explanation.
But if you need any help let me know.
I'm not sure, but I think you got it !!If your problem started with oil leak, it was the bearing to be replaced.
You have to take the clutch cover out, to do that you will need to take the water pump cover out and the impeller out.
With the cover out you replace the seal and the bearing with the seal, put both on the cover first, in the correct way, then you just put the cover back in place.
The best way is to check the workshop manual, there I'm sure you have pict and a decent explanation.
But if you need any help let me know.
Thanks for the information
Do you have part number or some info about the new bearing (nr 63) with the integrated oil seal? so I can buy it somewhere
Do you have part number or some info about the new bearing (nr 63) with the integrated oil seal? so I can buy it somewhere
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Check the parts manual, you can only buy it from ktm.
It is a SKF bearing ICOS series, but they won't sell it to you, you must go through ktm.
There is other option, but now I was only going to complicate your mind I will post about the other option when I remember to make pict.
:cheers:
It is a SKF bearing ICOS series, but they won't sell it to you, you must go through ktm.
There is other option, but now I was only going to complicate your mind
I will post about the other option when I remember to make pict.:cheers:
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
to put the new bearing in you'll need to remove the waterpump seal first so that the bearing can be pressed out. the removal of the seal can damage it and generally does!
I suggest that you get a new bearing and two waterpump seals as well as the O ring for the shaft. this and any gaskets should be enough OK?
always press the baring and the seal in - don't tap with a hammer as the bearing can lose the rubber 'ring' from the side and also the seal can fold in half.
I've been replacing these for years and I remember catching the lip on my first one back in 2002.
the secret is to push the right end of the cover on more than you think as it is held back by the gearchange shaft and ther kickstart shaft. put the cover on 'square' = no problem.
regards
Taffy
I suggest that you get a new bearing and two waterpump seals as well as the O ring for the shaft. this and any gaskets should be enough OK?
always press the baring and the seal in - don't tap with a hammer as the bearing can lose the rubber 'ring' from the side and also the seal can fold in half.
I've been replacing these for years and I remember catching the lip on my first one back in 2002.
the secret is to push the right end of the cover on more than you think as it is held back by the gearchange shaft and ther kickstart shaft. put the cover on 'square' = no problem.
regards
Taffy
When I took the clutch cover off, before refitting, I ground out 2 small reliefs so that its easy to pluck the water pump seal out to swap it if needed without having to remove the cover again.
Be really careful holding the kick starter shaft in place when you remove the cover. If not, and it moves maybe 2 mm or so out, the mechanism will slip. It might look OK, but the cover will not go back on, and the kick start won't work. For me, this has been the worst part of the process. Shimming out the sledge a mm or so helps. I don't have any pics, sorry.
Be really careful holding the kick starter shaft in place when you remove the cover. If not, and it moves maybe 2 mm or so out, the mechanism will slip. It might look OK, but the cover will not go back on, and the kick start won't work. For me, this has been the worst part of the process. Shimming out the sledge a mm or so helps. I don't have any pics, sorry.
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