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Larger oil capacity…

Joined Aug 2016
69 Posts | 7+
New Zealand
I have a 08 FE450, i want to use for adventure dual sporting and commuteing, i have been wir th the idea of fitting an aftermarket oil tank. To double or triple the change intervials.
So has anyone dine this? What problems may i expect to run into? I don't want to affect oil pressure or strain the oil pump may these be issues ?

Thanks Hadrian
 
Good question, Bozarth might be able to shed some light on it if you catch him in a good mood.
 
Also after any tips on plumbing such a system would be greatly appreciated or any help really.
 
I swear there is a write up somewhere on here with some one doing an external oil cooler with increased oil capacity of another liter... I will see how busy I am at work tomorrow and try to find it
 
I think someone plumbed part of the frame as a reservoir. It was in some adventure set-up article on the web I think.
 
It's a crying shame they didn't dry sump these engines from the start. No sharing oil with the gearbox and clutch. Less oil frothing from the crank hitting oil in the crank case, also allowing for higher rpm and more power. Obviously a much larger oil capacity held in an external tank. The only minus is adding weight, but it probably could have been done with only a 10-15 lb addition.

Dry sump systems require a dual oil pump. The take-up pump sends oil collected from the bottom of the crankcase to the external tank, and is high volume/low pressure with the capacity to run dry without harm. The pressure pump is the same as a wet sump pump, high pressure/low volume. They also circulate oil to external oil coolers, as well as siphon oil from an external tank.

I doubt it would hurt the oil pump to add an external tank or cooler. However either would have to be high pressure making a cooler make more sense in a wet sump system.


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Sidecar boys run a cooler, plumbing isn't difficult, where to mount it out of harms way is. Added about 1ltr to the capacity. The chair boys put the cooler right over in the chair so no probs with the pump pushing it round.
 
there is some evidence that the oil cooler could be part of the problem. the temperature doesn't drop so that only leaves the fact that you carry more oil. British bikes used to have an oil tank under the seat. that to me b=makes more sense. it's the capacity you want NOT the drop in temperature, that will come (the drop in temperature) from simply using more oil.

regards

Taffy
 
Some great replies much thanks thanks to all.

So a fellow Kiwi berg rider put me on to this but its for the 09-12 70° Guys but worth a read any way. So You Want a Lightweight Adventure Travel Bike?. | Expedition Portal

So yes Taffy i have no issue with heat so a under seat tank is the line of thought that seems best for me, but as Md4stone says it will have to hold presure, i am sur if i can't find one i can make one/get one made.

Another thing that has been mentioned to me is the possibilaty of the removal of the oil seal between the stator housing and the crank case… this mod leaves me with a few questions, will it hurt my stator? Dose the oil actually circulate? As the seal is at crank hight the oil will just sit there wont it? Two holes drilled higher and lower to allow convection currents to transfer the oil would surely work better tan just the seal being pulled… and if so that a job to be done at a rebuild not when my engine is nice and tight and i just want to ride…
Once again thanks everyone for your replies and i will keep you up2 date on how i get on…
Cheers Hádge
 
I can't answer the question about whether or not oil will damage the stator, but it is absolutely imperative that all oil chambers in any wet sump system have passageways to allow the oil to return to the pick up screen at the lowest point gravity-wise in the sump.


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strongly advise against using the stator housing. firstly, you need a hole at the bottom to let the oil out and back to the crankcase so it would hold exactly......nothing!

secondly, the crankcase is continually trying to pump itself dry by creating a small chamber in which the difference between high and low crankcase pressures at bottom and top dead-centre helps this. having an anti-chamber reduces this effect. so now you have two reasons why.

the best thing to do is to make an exact copy of an auxilliary plastic fuel tank in steel/alloy. the trouble is, it is so beautifully moulded that nobody will imitate it and it'll look like a slab of ham. but it is the way to go.

have you thought about how you're going to get it up there and how you want it to come back down? remember, you want your oil to circulate. you also will need an overflow tube incase the header tank overfills, the cap will also have to be able to vent both ways as the capacity goes up and down. it sounds trivial but I always found it encouraging that I could see the oil being pumped up to the catch tank and see it squirting across the tank.

Husaberg oil goes into the crank, leaves the crankcase via the reed valve, travels back lubricating the various gears and the clutch before entering the gearbox arena just to be picked up again by the oil strainer.

you need to know what oil pressure you have and what spare capacity you have? you need to route two pipes. get them off another bike. ducati use a lot of external oil hoses..... you can also be getting your pressures and piping right while the tank is being made, they don't have to be together till the end.

I have a spare auxilliary tank here but only to borrow (deposit paid). |I can point out some of its failings as there are mistakes in the designs.

regards

Taffy
 
Since you are riding off-road it precludes what is possibly the easiest way to increase oil capacity which is to have a deeper sump and extend the oil pickup. That's what a lot of race cars use as opposed to going to a dry sump system. On an American V8 that amounts to a deeper oil pan and a hose to the new deeper bottom, super easy to do because they are offered as an aftermarket kit for popular engines.
Could fabricate a pancake tank that fits under the frame but that would take away your ground clearance so no go.



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Also, an oil cooler WILL help with overall cooling of the engine as another way to dissipate heat. In cold weather you could cover the oil cooler. It will add some oil capacity.

Another idea is to add an external oil filter. Put a nice big car oil filer of your choice onto your bike. You can immediately see the advantages there [emoji362] Get rid of that little joke of a stock oil filter and put both an external oil filter and an oil cooler on it. That's what I would do if I were contemplating doing what you are. Should about double your oil capacity too [emoji106]
22c152ee472c5cb2b973eaf041ba3a4b.jpg



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Also, an oil cooler WILL help with overall cooling of the engine as another way to dissipate heat. In cold weather you could cover the oil cooler. It will add some oil capacity.

Another idea is to add an external oil filter. Put a nice big car oil filer of your choice onto your bike. You can immediately see the advantages there [emoji362] Get rid of that little joke of a stock oil filter and put both an external oil filter and an oil cooler on it. That's what I would do if I were contemplating doing what you are. Should about double your oil capacity too [emoji106]
22c152ee472c5cb2b973eaf041ba3a4b.jpg



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My idea precisely as well.
 
I run wet ignition
An Oil change needs 2.2L

Just drilled hole between ignition and crank cavity at the bottom.

Hey Bushie! I understand that you have had this setup running problem free. How long have you been with this setup and do you have it on one engine or more? KTM rfs engines are also wet stator/oil ? Anybody else have done this? Thanks.
 

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