KTM Radiator Fan on 03' 400FE??

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There is no risk of burning the fans' motor by using too intense of a current?
 
LeFrog said:
There is no risk of burning the fans' motor by using too intense of a current?
Click to expand...

If they're 12 v amp draw would be what they're rated at, you could check it. Bike is 12 v, right?
 
Yeah but I am talking about the intensity (amps). Voltage is tension. I guess you can fuse it with a .5A just in case. That wiring diagram from KTMTalk is pretty good. I think I am going to PM that Lonewolf.

I also think a plastic fan would be better than an aluminum fan, which would carry too much vibration into the motor.
 
Husabutt

The auto clutches are a slipping clutch so they will run hotter than a normal engaged clutch, and similar to a slipped clutch.

Lefrog

As long as the fan is 12v it will only draw what amp is is desinged to draw and will not burn itself out. the motor itself has resistance.

fry
 
As stated the fan (load) determines the amperage draw. The regulator regulates voltage surges and the battery operates as a balast as well storage. The fan setup is simple and sraight forward. My only concern again is water intrusion.
Most bikes may not even require a fan setup. It's just the fact that I ride tight single track in 90-100f temps. I ride slow in general and riding a gear or 2 too high with an autoclutch does not help the situation.
 
I checked the KTM/Lonewolf link on the CPU cooling fan issue and it looks good. Pictures always help. The problem is, I do not know where to wire this fan into the harness (i.e. which leads to use). Also, does anyone know where to get the correct thermal switch for the fan and whether the switch mounts on/in the block/head or radiator? Thanks in advance for all input. Wiring diagrams, photos and even flannel-graphs would be a big help.

Drooling and dragging my knuckles all the way to the tool box. Left foot... right foot...breath (repeat as necessary) :)
 
I have a battery tender set up on my battery. I tied the fan power and grounds into the battery tender harness on the load side of the fuse that is place for the tender. The switch I am currently using is just an automotive grade manual on/off switch. I figure I will run the fans full time for awhile.
 
They did work, but the ambient temp was between 65-75 degrees. I cant really say how effective they are at this point. I have one of those point and shoot lazer thermometer's that I will try next week. I will get some readings from different points with the fans and without so I can guage the effectiveness.
One thing I did notice is that the radiator fan shrouds got pretty hot at times indicating that the fans are pushing the air through.
 
I'm new to the Husaberg world, and was looking for info on overheating when I found this site. Me and a friend purchased "new" '04 450e's about 3 weeks ago. We ride in tight "eastern" type enduros. Both of us overheated within 10 seconds of stopping after the first 5 mile section. Our dealer had rejetted the carbs before we picked them up to eliminate the lean condition from the factory. My second ride went very much like the first, only with Engine Ice this time. After reading the comments here regarding all of the gyrations you guys are going through to get the heat down, I'm wondering why I bought this bike. It's hard to imagine spending 6.5K for a bike that won't run in the tights. What was I thinking. My buddy is "over it" now as he traded it for a KTM. I'm still debating what to do, as I love the way the bike handles, but if I can't race it it's worthless. If BMG can't fix this heat issue, they'll never sell em east of the Mississippi. I have another race this Sunday and if it pukes and costs me series points, I'll be "over it" too.
 
Describe puke?? A small amount boiling out the overflow intially, or you can hear the coolant boiling in the bike and it looses 1/2 a quart and you must refill it.
If the bike is not overheating (boiling the coolant in the engine and radiator) I would recommend the Evans coolant. When ever you refill the coolant make sure you bleed the air out of the head using the bleeder screw.
 
my mate had the same problem on his '04 FE450. it was ignition related. he got through two units and when the ignition unit was right-so was the coolant!

regards

taffy
 
Initially the puke was almost all of the coolant. It steamed for several minutes (well at least 1, but it seemed like more). After it cooled down I drained about a cup out of the lower hose. After refilling with Engine Ice it has "steamed off" while riding but I didn't have time to stop. At the end of the day the radiator was about half empty.

I have mentioned to the dealer that I had heard at this forum about a possible ignition problem. He said he wasn't aware of one, but would check on it. Does anyone have any specifics I can give him. My bike was manufactured 12/03 so it would definately be an early '04 model.

I have ordered the Evans for this weekend but I still think it's covering up a problem.

Thanks for replying
 
The Evans is not a cure for overheating, it is the cure for boilover. Your bike seems to have the same symtoms as mine. As of yet, I am at a loss. I was told about the ignition problem. My dealer spoke to the distributor and it was determined that I had the updated ignition already.
I find that if I can get my speed up every chance I get and try not to lug the engine it definately runs cooler.
I have not given up yet and still have a few more things to try. I am going to try some 2 too cool (oil additive) and wraping the headers. Both products should be here in a couple of days. Once I have everything l will run some tests and try to be alittle more analytical.

piggd,
Make sure you get the Evans prep fluid. Also, whenever you refill the cooling system make sure you use the bleeder screw on the head. There is a picture in my gallery if you are unsure of what I'm taking about.
 
Thanks berger

I did open the burp screw when I filled it with Engine Ice. I did not order the engine prep though. My intent is to run the engine til it's hot then drain the coolant, so any remaining will evaporate. I will also leave it disconnected over night.

I realize the Evens doesn't cure the overheating, but have you noticed if your bike runs hotter or cooler with the Evans?

What are the numbers to look for on the updated ignition? (even though it doesn't appear to solve the problem in every case)

I'm curious what you will find with the additive and wrap

Thanks Again
 
yhdyhjdfyhdfybhdyhe

takes a long while to answer e-mails but try him. i'll be racing with him on sunday and will ask him for an absolutely specific answer just for you. how about that!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy, you will be my new best friend.

I emailed chris also so we'll see.

Thanks Again
 
:cry: I have my FE400. It has one big radiator, no burp screw, no thermostat. I can not find a "knock out" or a bolt to remove that would then accomodate a thermal switch for a fan mod. Still over heats in the ruts when going slow. Carb jet change. Recommendation? If I make it run richer, it might run cooler. Suicide is fast becoming the only truly noble alternative......
 

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