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KTM 990 e-starter for my husaberg 650 from 2004

Joined Nov 2012
170 Posts | 0+
Transilvania
Hi guys!
Im new here, and i was wondering if anyone could help me out... I have a 2004 Husaberg Fe 650 and the electric starter is rubbish and I was wondering if I could fit another starter form a 2007 KTM 990.

Pls help me guys :),
Tom
 
Go and read the Owners Doc,s on 00 - 08 Bergs see Taffmeisters the upgrade is the CBR 600 Yam 600 starter, upgrade
The battery to CTZ6 equivalent
 
the electric starter is rubbish
very rare for it to be the starter motor. usually on an '04, it's the torque limiter or the sprague. what are your symptoms?
 
The electric motor simply doesn't start the engine, sometimes it can even move the piston if i don't hold the manual decompressor. If i hook it up to a car battery then it starts rotating but still will not start. The truth is im not so familiar with the bike since i bought it 2 weeks ago. And just last week i broke the kicksart shaft off and thats why im such in pain, cuz the E-start doesnt work either :(.
 
I agree shim the torque limiter up and you will be so much easier to star no more turning over and not firing. But make sure you de comp spring is working first.
 
Agree with the others. Its not the starter motor thats at fault.

I have a FS650 same age as yours an it starts easy on the button.
 
Ty guys for the help, I will certainly check the torque limiter today, i hope its just that acting up.
 
All,
don't want to spoil the parade here, but if the engine will still not turn over when the manual decompressor is used, there's more than a slipping starter clutch to consider... unless of course there's a lot of noise typical of a slipping clutch, or a broken gear!

Tamas, I suggest a thorough reading of the DOC is a good place to start. If your starter just spins when you press the button, pull off the clutch cover and check out the starter drive train. If on the other hand your starter just stalls, or only just manages to turn over the engine (but not fast enough to start it) check your battery performance, the condition of the starter cables (especially the ground cable), the function of the starter solenoid and then consider the starter motor itself. Strip it and check for worn brushes and bearings. If it's worn, it'll be quicker, cheaper and more sensible to upgrade rather than to replace with the OE part.

If there's a big difference in starter performance when you pull the manual decompressor, I strongly recommend you look closely at the condition of the camshaft decompressor.

The e-starting systems on the older Bergs is, by experience, pretty marginal. With a bit of work, they can be made to function well, but everything needs to be working perfectly... and I mean everything from fuelling, to valve clearances, decompressor, battery, and the entire ignition system. Upgrading the starter motor and battery helps. Getting everything else correct is the key to making it work well.

Good luck.

Cheers... Paul
 
Ty m8 for the info.
My guess is that the camshaft decompressor is faulty since if i hold the manual one down the motor can turn it over fast. Also I check the starter motor itself and all is okay, nothing is worn. I also checked other parts such as torque limiter and sprague since I had to get the cover off in order to change the kickstarter shaft.
I would like to ask, how can I tell if the camshaft decompressor is faulty? I also checked the connections from the battery to the starter motor and everything is fine, and tried starting it from car battery via thick wires and still the motor could barely turn over the engine.
Regards, Tom
 
Tamas,
pull the cam cover and peer at the little centrifugal cam set into the base circle of the main exhaust cam lobe. Look in the DOC: engine upgrades/auto decompression issue for a very full description of the problem together with excellent pictures, AND how to fix it.

Sort that out (I updated the camshaft, drive sprocket, cam-chain and tensioner whilst I was at it... just convenient to do it all at once), then move on to the starter motor. CBR600 / R6 starter motors are readily available on ebay cheaply. Some mods to the mounting bracket puts this problem to bed once and for all.

If you've still got crank-speed problems (I doubt it... try the jumper cable trick and car battery again as the acid test), I'd look closely at the battery. Mine was relatively new, but still completely shagged when I bought the bike. A combination of a dodgy regulator/rectifyer teamed-up with the previous owner cooking the battery with a less than intelligent battery charger in an increasingly desperate attempt to overcome the charging issues destroyed it after only a few months. On the bench it seemed fine, by which I mean it held onto its charge well and showed a nice healthy voltage once charged... but as soon as you put it under any load it could supply only a fraction of the expected current. Scrap, in other words.

Once you get the thing spinning-over relatively quickly all should be good, but if it still doesn't start, post again. There's a massive amount of experience on this site (most older Husabergs are absolute twats to start at least at one point in their lives); together we should be able to sort you out. Step by step guidance usually wins in the end.

Cheers... Paul
 
I've got an update for this very old thread...

For those that don't know me, I'm the one that pioneered the CB1000 starter on the Older Husabergs (2001-2005). The CB starter has served my bored and stroked 2004 FE750 adequately through the years, but I wanted something that works even better in the cold. Well here it is... KTM part number 75040001000. This starter is off a late model 690/701. Though it's sizeably smaller and lighter, it's actually a newer design and is double wound, essentially making it 2 starters in one housing. If you're using a CB starter now, all you'll need to adapt it is 2 spacers for the mounting bolts, both 12mm long, and of course longer bolts to go with them. This starter setup does what you'd expect; spins the engine over twice as fast. Lithium Ion battery is always recommended... good luck!


~ Ken
 
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I've got an update for this very old thread...

For those that don't know me, I'm the one that pioneered the CB1000 starter on the Older Husabergs (2001-2005). The CB starter has served my bored and stroked 2004 FE750 adequately through the years, but I wanted something that works even better in the cold. Well here it is... KTM part number 75040001000. This starter is off a late model 690/701. Though it's sizeably smaller and lighter, it's actually a newer design and is double wound, essentially making it 2 starters in one housing. If you're using a CB starter now, all you'll need to adapt it is 2 spacers for the mounting bolts, both 12mm long, and of course longer bolts to go with them. This starter setup does what you'd expect; spins the engine over twice as fast. Lithium Ion battery is always recommended... good luck!


~ Ken

Excellent information. Thank you very much.
 
I am searching old threads trying to figure out what I could do to solve the charging and starting problems on my FE650 from 2008. I've gotten to a point where I am almost ready to get rid of it and get something else instead.
I am wondering.. is the 75040001000 a direct replacement on the FE650? If not, then what year CB starter do you use?
 
Sorry for the late reply, I wasn't getting updates on this thread. I am having the typical issues that I see a lot of posts about om this and other forums. When I take the FE650E out for a ride, it starts on the electric starter (although if it takes too many revs this will flatten the battery), the engine is heavy to turn and the starter simply feels inadequate.
Once running, I can afford to stop it a couple of times before there isn't any charge left in the battery and away we go kick starting the beast every time. The stator doesn't supply enough charge to the battery, I am planning on rewinding the stator and floating the ground to redirect power to the battery to solve this.
I bought a brand new Yuasa battery whe I got the bike but it hasn't made much of a difference.

I placed an order for the beefier starter just now. I'll update on this thread once I get it.
 
check that the battery sows 14.3 volts when running and charging. at least that is the number i recall?
They can suffer from a lack of eartyh for the starter button. remember that the starter button - the "click" down at the solenoid MUST have feed in and an earth.
i helped a UK customer with this recently as i was trying to think of everything -as usual -as i am here and it was the cure!
also, there are 20 similar looking solenoids but the one you want is the same as a yamaha R6. all the right points are in all the right places for a 3 or 4 pin plug.

Taffy
 
Hmm interesting, I replaced the solenoid in an attempt to improve things but I purchased a direct replacement for the OEM solenoid. I didn't know that improvements could be made by installing an R6 solenoid, I'll look into this.
It has been a while since I measured the voltage on the battery with the engine running, I will have another go at this too.
 

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