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Kickstarter wrecking case

jmscrttndn

jmscrttndn

Joined Jan 2015
277 Posts | 157+
Winnipeg, Canada
Hello,

Tore into the engine today. Found that the kick starter has started to push into and deform the case along the one edge. This is bad because now the kickstarter assembly doesn't fit properly and is likely causing wear and continual damage to itself (and possible the rest of the engine due to debris).

On a positive note, the rest of the engine looked really great, so that's a relief. Haven't split the cases yet.

Let me know what I should do. Thanks,

-James.

Album link: Imgur

LXaOzTK.jpg


Please see album for more detailed view.
Please see album for more detailed view.
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Please see album for more detailed view.
 
jmscrttndn said:
Hello,

Tore into the engine today. Found that the kick starter has started to push into and deform the case along the one edge. This is bad because now the kickstarter assembly doesn't fit properly and is likely causing wear and continual damage to itself (and possible the rest of the engine due to debris).

On a positive note, the rest of the engine looked really great, so that's a relief. Haven't split the cases yet.

Let me know what I should do. Thanks,

-James.

Album link: Imgur

LXaOzTK.jpg


Please see album for more detailed view.
Please see album for more detailed view.
Please see album for more detailed view.
Please see album for more detailed view.
Click to expand...

I have same problem . Looking for great fixes.

Thanks
 
have you found actual lumps of aluminium swarf this time?

I'd be surprised if you have? I think it's an old injury and a cock-up by someone fitting it together? they can do that when someone has got it wrong putting it together. a new sledge plate, 2 x 1mm washers and off you go I reckon?

regards

Taffy
 
I know the kickstart wasn't working properly for the p/o. In fact, wasn't working at all. I gave him the link on how to get it back in place properly. Like taffy said, old injury.
 
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chef said:
I know the kickstart wasn't working properly for the p/o. In fact, wasn't working at all. I gave him the link on how to get it back in place properly. Like taffy said, old injury.
Click to expand...

Yes, likely fitted back together incorrectly... then somone jumping on the lever can do some damage inside! I played with it last night and could not figure out 100% how it's supposed to work (in term of the interactions between the sledge plate and the rotating part.

Taffy said:
have you found actual lumps of aluminium swarf this time?
a new sledge plate, 2 x 1mm washers and off you go I reckon?

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

The large chunks of metal I found stuck to the drain plug (were magnetic), looked as if they could have come from this assembly perhaps. There is still an abundant flow of small, smooth metallic flakes when I drain the engine oil after running for only 20 minutes. Looks almost like glitter. It does not seem to stick to a magnet when I try, so aluminum I suppose?

Taffy, where would the 2 x 1mm washers go? Thanks mate,

-James.
 
this is an old wound, your metal is coming from some other source. so fit a new sledge plate with new torx screws. the shaers go behind the sledge plate.

check the key on the kickstart shaft is still in good condition? you can turn it over.

regards

Taffy
 
I had the same problem, or rather created the same problem.

When attempting to do my water pump seal, I kept buggering up the kicker shaft until it bound up completely.

I did as Taffy suggested with the copper crush washers, but once I figured out how to install the bits properly the crush washers were not needed.

The trick is to make sure the shaft doesn't move when sliding the cover on:

Install kicker shaft, check shaft
Install clutch basket, check shaft
check your timing marks, check shaft
Install intermediate e-start gear, check shaft
Install fresh gasket, check shaft
Install left cover, check shaft
torque left cover, check shaft
Plug out and roll motor using kicker, check shaft

Sounds stupid, but this thing kicked my arse. I went through 6 water pump seals, 3 water pump gaskets, and 3 left side gaskets before I finally figured out what I had been doing wrong.

Take your time and really understand how that kicker is supposed to operate with the clutch basket removed. When I finally figured it out, I hurried to get it back together forgetting to use the pinion shaft heat shrink, thus mucking up my seal again.

Good Luck!
 
Taffy said:
this is an old wound, your metal is coming from some other source. so fit a new sledge plate with new torx screws. the shaers go behind the sledge plate.

check the key on the kickstart shaft is still in good condition? you can turn it over.
Click to expand...

1. How do washers help? I am not exactly sure this assembly works/functions, so how does raising the sledge by 1mm help?

2. I am going to replace the key (LOCKING PAWL) because it is messed up.

Wolfy said:
I did as Taffy suggested with the copper crush washers, but once I figured out how to install the bits properly the crush washers were not needed.

Take your time and really understand how that kicker is supposed to operate with the clutch basket removed. When I finally figured it out, I hurried to get it back together forgetting to use the pinion shaft heat shrink, thus mucking up my seal again.
Click to expand...

Could you explain how it works? I played with it but cannot wrap my head around the mechanism. Does the spinning kickstart shaft go UNDER or OVER the sledge plate? I think because some critical surfaces are broken, mine isn't working correctly making it difficult to dissect and comprehend. Again, what do the washers behind the sledge plate do?

BTW, when free-spinning this assebmly, the key or locking pawl is fairly loud against the gear. Does this gear constantly spin when the engine is on? If so, I would expect this pawl/key to get a lot of wear... but it doesn't seem to have worn too badly (except due to the failed parts in my scenario).
 
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images


this is how it goes. your pawl is dropped and dangling in the teeth on the inside of the gear. what a mess!

you need the kickstart shaft like this. you can't see it but this is 'spring loaded'.

if you look carefully, the pawl is close to falling off THIS side of the plate. there is nothing really to stop it. but 2 x 1mm washer behind the plates 'balances' the pawl and t doesn't go crooked (aus: crook).

regards

Taffy
 
kickstarter1.jpg


this shows you how the spring must go OK? the tail points at your belly.

the kickstart shaft fits on the tail, THEN you put the kickstart arm on with the arm pointing at 10 o clock (the steering head) and you wind that MF clockwise till the shoulder behind the shaft can sit on the sledge and back aagainst the stop. tap in with a hammer.

THEN fit the spring and the key. (yes it can be done after!)

regards

Taffy
 
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Taffy said:
this shows you how the spring must go OK? the tail points at your belly.

the kickstart shaft fits on the tail, THEN you put the kickstart arm on with the arm pointing at 10 o clock (the steering head) and you wind that MF clockwise till the shoulder behind the shaft can sit on the sledge and back aagainst the stop. tap in with a hammer.

THEN fit the spring and the key. (yes it can be done after!)

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Excellent thanks, I'll play with it tonight. I have some videos of me screwing with it so I may post one. I am not sure that the sledge was stopping the shaft like it's supposed to, so I believe that something has broke off.
 
bushmechanic said:
do you like the timing marks I scratched on for clarity ? :D:D
Click to expand...

Pretty good. What do they show, the rotational start and stop point?

Also, I have done some research and believe I now understand how the kickstarter is supposed to work. I had it totally wrong.
 
Last edited:
jmscrttndn said:
Pretty good. What do they show, the rotational start and stop point?

Also, I have done some research and believe I now understand how the kickstarter is supposed to work. I had it totally wrong.
Click to expand...

Yes, even though the kicker is on the left, you still kick down!
 
Got it sorted. What I predict happened is that the shaft became unseated when installing the case, so when it was "kicked", the mechanism got all sorts of messed up... and dug into the case.

Luckily, all of the damage shown in my photos has nil effect on the operation of the device when correctly installed.

I believe that this is a poor design on Husaberg's behalf. They could have added some sort of fail-safe to positively lock the shaft in place to avoid this issue. It is a common issue too which is annoying.
 
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jmscrttndn said:
Got it sorted. What I predict happened is that the shaft became unseated when installing the case, so when it was "kicked", the mechanism got all sorts of messed up... and dug into the case.

Luckily, all of the damage shown in my photos has nil effect on the operation of the device when correctly installed.

I believe that this is a poor design on Husaberg's behalf. They could have added some sort of fail-safe to positively lock the shaft in place to avoid this issue. It is a common issue too which is annoying.
Click to expand...

yeh! yeh!
yada yada yada!!!!!:p :p

Taffy
 

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