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Kickstarter comes up too high

V

vwhusaberg

Joined Oct 2008
59 Posts | 0+
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
Hello. Bike is a 2002 FE501. I'm about to replace my broken kickstart shaft, but I want to make sure I fix another problem while I have it apart. For the last couple of months my kickstarter has been coming up too high. I mean really high. It springs back to the park position, but when I go to kick it, I have to boot backward with my heel, then hold it with my hand to get it to the point where I can even get my foot on it. I tried taking it off and rotating it one spline backward, but then I hardly had any usefull kicking rotation left. Any ideas on what could have been causing that problem?

Thanks,
Ray
 
Hi Ray,

I just replaced the kickstart shaft on my 2003 400fe. It's not a bad job and the link below is to a thread that I started as I did the work. At the bottom is a link to my gallery where i posted pics of the work as it went on. It will probably help to have a look at those pics.

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=9297

The problem you describe is likely caused by wear on the "sledge" A little crescent shaped piece of steel that has a lump at one end and this determines at what point of the kick lever travel the pawl engages on the gear to begin turning the motor over. My guess is that's where the problem lies.

There is a newer kickstart shaft part that may fit your bike too and you should get that one if possible. Again there are pics in my gallery.

Lastly a search in the mechanical forum and an hour or so reading all the "kickstart" posts will shed more light on what you need to do.

Good luck
 
You might want to try one of Taffy's modified "Engagement Sledges"

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HUSABERG-KICK...14&_trkparms=72:1301|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318

You will find the part in the "Crankcase Left" page of the parts manual.

b6f3_1.JPG
 
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hey ray!

just to say welcome mate and put all the bike amnd location details in your nik etc.

does the kickstart arm when returning actually bang into a stop (as you feel it?) because if so you have the kickstart on the wrong splines!!!!!!

let the kickstart return to it's stop while holdiing the arm OUT. it should go anti-clockwise and come to a stop with full BWE. if you have that the kickstart has hit the stop as in the right hand end of the above photod sledge.

replace the kickstart on the splines. if now, the arm is ok when you extracxt it but you now have 6" of sprung slop well you need the "Taff's crescent mod!".

apply within sir!

regards

Taffy
 
Ok thanks guys, the info will really help me. It was quite a bummer yesterday at the indoor MX track when we couldn't even bump start the thing...too much compression. I called Dan at Motoxotica this morning and ordered the updated shaft, sledge, sprague (still trying to get it to go on the button too), gaskets, etc. I think I've spent about a grand now on the two starting systems. Over the next few weeks I'll be installing these parts, plus a Sparks rewound stator and Trail Tech regulator...oh and I bought a Battery Tender today too!! I'll let you guys know how it goes. So how can I add a picture under my name like you guys have?
 
Merry Christmas everyone!

Ok, well I've removed my broken kickstart shaft. the sledge was ruined and one of the screw heads was actually torn off...luckily I found it and was able to turn the screw out with a small nail.

After I got the kickstart shaft out, I pulled something out from behind it that turned out to be the auto decomp lever which was damaged and cracked. The bike has the handlebar mouted lever which is connected to the lever on the right side of the cylinder head by a cable, however there is no cable connected to the lever that I pulled out of the engine.

Does anyone have a picture of how the cable setup for the auto decomp is supposed to look? I've searched all over, but I can't find one.

Is it worth the trouble and expense to get the auto decomp working? Does it really give much advantage? My goal is to get it starting on the button reliably, and use the kicker as a backup. It generally starts in 3 kicks when cold (without any decomp).

If I decide to, can I leave the lever out and plug the hole with a good sealant? Will the kickstart mechanism still work otherwise?
 
I'd say forget the auto decomp on the kicker. You don't need it if you follow the standard procedure for kickstarting (just past TDC on the comp stroke and let fly). If yoy want reliable starting on the e button then the dutch clog decomp lobe on the cam is proly more important.

I reckon the kickstart will work just fine without the auto decomp lever and shaft but be sure to seal it up good.
 
If it were me I would restore the kickstart activated decomp to its former glory. This way it is not necessary to find TDC etc. and will help lessen the stress on your new kickstart shaft should you encounter TDC whilst kicking.
 
block it off with an M8 bolt and nut. if asloz says you get the dutch clog decomp - you won't need it.

regards

Taffy
 

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