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kicks back hard when you try to start it

Joined Sep 2012
1 Posts | 0+
I just bought a 98 fe400e their are some things I would like help with. If you can help I would be greatful.Their are 3 small hoses on the carb. I know what 2 are for the thirdis got me.One is a vent two is a bowl over flow whats the third. What should the compresson be 75 lbs. is the best I got. What is the best way to make sure the timing is in faze. If you try to start the bike it will kick back so hard it will throw your leg off.When it fires it will hurt you.I have tried to look this up but can't get a stright anserw with out wanting a crdit card or wanting to sell me something.Got layed off don't have no money and don't use crdit cards. Gettig this bike running and sold means if I eat this month. So if you can help. PLEASE DO and THANK YOU
 
considering there aren't many on here still running a 98fee, you need to provide more details.
does it have an enduro tank with the long right side?
stock dellorto carb?
what are the two hoses you know?
where is the one you don't?
why not use the estart?
does it have a kickstart mounted decomp? handlebar decomp?
there is a specific way to start it by locating the kicker to start just after tdc compression, otherwise a bear to start.
 
as long as the hoses are not blocked off who cares what they do? i think two are vents and one is an overflow if it matters. i guess the main thing is that they are not clogged.

the only times i have gotten kick back on my 600 was when the flywheel woodruff key sheared, at that time it died and would not restart untill i replaced the key they was back to normal. at the time it would try to start at times but not actually run or kick kickback my leg off.

does your bike actually run or can you get it to run??
does the estart work?

compression should be much higher than 75lbs. with estart cranking compression on my 600 was 140psi
per dale lineweaver in the owners doc estart compression should be 130psi
most say (including ned, remember our last discussion on this ned lol) compression should be tested with throttle open and using the kick start and also be in the 130-140 range
 
Not wanting to seem cold or anything,but if getting a older Berg running and sold means if you eat or not I would suggest you quickly develop a plan "B"
 
also you can check your timing with a timing light, see owners doc or research the site. if you want to know your base timing is good (this will not show off with timing light) you have to remove the cylidner ehad cover and rotated the crank to tdc then check to make sure the cam sproket bolts are 90degrees in related to the cylidner head surface if it is at a slight tilt one way or another then the timing chain is off a tooth, mine was like this but only because the original owner put it back together wrong after rebuild then i bought it and fixed it. not because it "jumped time" i dont think that could happen without an explosion of some type.
 
nsman said:
Not wanting to seem cold or anything,but if getting a older Berg running and sold means if you eat or not I would suggest you quickly develop a plan "B"

LOL yea maybe make plan b then try to figure it out
 
Hi, sorry to ear that

Take care, once my 600 broke my foot, it was ones of the worse things that I had.

The easiest thing for you to check is the stator timminng and the most likely, so I pesume that you don't have a timming light, so try check this:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14748&p=122397&hilit=pre+99+timing#p122397

You can also check the sping od the auto decomp, but its not so easy.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 

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