kenda carlsbad front washes out

my personal choice is the bridgestone M 23 , good on rocks and slippery terrain

Front end washouts are often related to too much sag in the rear, unloading the front. Nothing will steer or handle properly unless the springs and sags are right, not to mention your posture. Aim for 30/100 in the rear.

I've nio Kenda experience, but I do currently have a 742FA fitted. Not bad, good when new and seems to be wearing down and keeping the knobs fairly square, but is starting to shed side knobs prematurely. The best value I have found so far for grip and durability, and continuing to grip as they wear for all round use on the front is the BS 201 and the Dunlop 773. These are soft to soft intermediate tyres that will also handle the rocky stuff. Get the suspension valving right and 12 psi is fine and makes them work. Ultra HD tubes and no pinch flats or dinged rims.

I have a Tubliss on order for the front so that will be interesting too. Should be here soon.

Steve

Bridgestone 201 100-90-21 hits guard and frame on 08 650.

tyre is best by far for sand. comparing to the stock metzeller and the d742s, main reason is the tyres larger footprint, its not classed as a sand tyre.

reduced diameter of tyre by about 8mm with angle grinder with tyre in bike (4mm off each centre knob)

forks run flush with top of clamps tyre still contacts guard on big hits. Viking suggests in big fork thread to add washers inside forks between spring guide and fork cap to help.

tyre doesn't throw knobs yet and has done about 80 hours hard labour, the dunlops on my other bike did throw side knobs early.

love the big tyres

Bushie

I haven't had a problem with the one 201 I had on my 07 650 with clearance that I noticed. Can't remember whether its a 90 or 100. You could always put more oil the forks with to sort it!

Steve

steve said:

I haven't had a problem with the one 201 I had on my 07 650 with clearance that I noticed. Can't remember whether its a 90 or 100. You could always put more oil the forks with to sort it!

Steve

Click to expand...

I better not get started on the oil height, might muck up this nice thread about tyres and washout have tried as much as 80mm though. 0.46 or 0.48s might be good to help too. doesn't happen often unless running a very flexy backer 2 pivot soft BV from the orange pages.

forgot to say the angle grinding trick makes the profile of the tyre flat on top, something thats noticable when changing direction on hardpack.

side knobs usually came off the dunlops when doing a lot of 120 -140 Km/hr sliding on nice pea gravel roads, the bridgestone seems more durable in this respect.

as steve says loading the front wheel more with geometry settings is the simple way to help with front end wash outs. making sure I am right up the front near the tank cap helps a bit too. If its in sand then 8psi in a big tyre helps a little further.

regards

Bushie

Almost got a bite on oil height!

NHS, not for highway service means AFAIK an 80mph/130kph speed limit, so yeah you could start overheating and destroying tyres.

But, I do agree that the BS201 is a good thing. I've used them heaps on my 501 but as I now get Dunlops at a heavily subsidised price, limited sponsorship, I thought I'd try them and see if any of them work for me.

So far in my Dunlop test on the 650, for my mixed terrain of fire trails and single track, usually rocky, but with soft patches, sometimes bulldust, the most durable and best handling, most confidence inspiring for me is the 773 front and 952 rear.

I haven't felt the need to try something other than the 952 as it just works, durability and grip are OK. although force of habit will still fit an S12 for a loamy grass track.

My Dunlop front assessment so far is:
952 front is vague on turn in, durability is fine, but then I don't like the feel
756 is good new, but knobs round off quickly and it starts to slide a lot
739 is durable and good on smooth flat stuff, but not real good on softer stuff
742 work well but shed side knobs prematurely
773 works and lasts

I do like S12 Michys but they only last a ride or two and are destroyed
Pirelli 412 are similar to Dunlop 773 but I think are no longer available

So, S12s for soft stuff, otherwise 952 up back, although Mitas C02 are an old favourite for long life and 773 or 201 up front.

BS201 are a great durable all rounder up front, not tested up back.

My opinion, on my bike for my riding style and usual terrain so treat with caution.

Steve

And for more handling, check the doc, where you could eventually end up here, so take these shortcuts:
http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php/ ... etup_guide
http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php/ ... etup_guide

Both of which I believe I passed on to Taffy some time ago

Steve

Bridgestone front, Maxxis rear.

I swear by bridgestone m201 fronts. Have been using these for 4 years, and love the grip in all conditions. rock, hardpack, mud, sand is ok too, and the turning qualities. Get one, you cant go wrong for anything but sustained bitumen or dirt road touring, as any knob just wont last.

I used to run bridgestone M401 rears, and love them, but recently swapped to Maxxis - maxx cross IT(size18x110). Done about 400km all on single trail, dirt roads, rock, mud, sand, hardpack, and cannot fault the tyre as a great all rounder, and appers to be holding up well.

I have ridden mates bikes with Maxxis ronts, and honestly, didnt notice much difference compared to my trusty bridgestones, so will be trying them next, once I need a new front.

Hope this helps, but tyres are a personal choice, but I used to push my 525, had had no isuues with above mentione tyres...

Jamie.

Hi madpugs,

I have had a couple of issues with front end pushing, but sofar havent explored tyre influence, this week have put a new front on my Berg, so we will see!

So far I have worked on sag adjustments at the rear of the bike, which gave far more positive handling, and kept the rear end tracking a lot better, and then noticed a very unnerving push, articularly in sand and loose pebbles.

I adjusted my fork height, (I innitially had them set on the third ring through the top clamp) by pushing the fork stanchions down into the clamps (make the fork legs longer) by 3 - 4 mm, which helped a lot.

goodluck!

steve said:

Almost got a bite on oil height!

Steve

Click to expand...

I'll bite Steve 15cc over stock in each leg worked for me.It stopped the harsh bottoming over jumps(the primary intention)as well as the tire hitting the rear of the fender without resorting to shims or anything else that would adversely change the damping characteristics.Rear sag 95mm,fork height-level.No issues with push or slide with 756,742,maxxis it.Currnetly have an s12 rear and m12 front but haven't tried that yet.

ford,

I was thinking that if Bushie filled his forks completely then he would no longer have a problem with rubbing tyres. He has done an unbelievable amount of experimentation/learning with his forks recently. And I agree, a bit of extra oil can be a good thing. My view is that if you don't bottom occasionaly, once or twice per typical ride, then you are not getting maximum value out of your suspension, but bottomming too much and harshly in particularly can do damage, to you and especially to shock bodies whch can get expensive.

Too much oil in the forks and we get hydraulic lock, whch can almost feel like bottoming. Air is inherently a progressive rate spring, so its another variable we can use for fine tuning the forks. Anyone else remember the 'speedo and tacho' fitted to 80s YZs for a year or so in lieu of steel springs?

Cheers
Steve

High speed Compression on rear shock is sometimes referred to as dynamic ride height adjustment, can help to raise rear from mid corner to exit but if washout is occurring during initial cornering and braking with the rear wheel off the ground or near off the ground it didn't help much. less rebound on rear and more on front can help too up to a point as did anything that made the MV less effective but thats getting a bit OTT and arsey perhaps. just what i found, effects are very slight and usual Internet relevance and BS disclaimer applies. someone may benefit though.

Steve, I'd love to be able to run 90mm oil, that was a great tip of yours from another thread. there are a lot of benefits and a few unfortunate side effects, I'm too fussy for my own good I suppose. will get there one day, 90mm is a goal for this week and I'm closing in. will put that in another thread if it works out.

with regards to washout and oil, adding oil raises the ride height of my bike during cornering, just ever so slightly, making washout worse so if doing only one thing to remedy the problem and not revalving the MV, I would prefer to add some washers as viking suggests, BUT its not a big problem and the sound of the tyre slightly contacting the guard is a good indicator of travel used. sort of adds a bit of bottoming resistance too I guess. only disadvantage at present is that the tyre can spin on the rim and kill the valve stem,only happened once, blasted Ktalk Bv's! tubliss would be good. been a month or so since I ran one so its just a guess that large float stock MVs should benefit from raising oil height.

hows that for a freindly tickle couldn't find an emoticon for fishing.

regards

Bushie

We do seem to have highjacked this thread. Madpugs, does any of this help, or have we confused you?

Bushie, High or Low speed to keep the rear up. I'd suggest Low speed, remembering that 'speed' here is the speed of travel of the shaft. Its a bit of a bandaid though, as it'll compromise something else, like bump absorption.

Cheers
Steve

steve said:

We do seem to have highjacked this thread.
Steve

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Well,so long as it's your fault then .I have a thin rubber o ring on each fork leg so I can accurately determine travel.With the stock settings,I bottomed hard on the track and ended up going in 9 on front compression before adding oil in 5cc increments.I ended up with 15cc more oil and compression 2 stiffer than stock.I'll still bottom this once to twice per lap but only just.As for the rear,I have the rebound stiffened up four to stop the wheel from hopping on an abrupt hit or when it just catches the lip of a jump-stock it would just about pitch the rear "arse over teakettle" in "taffy speak" :wink: I've got quick bleeders on the front forks as well.I've had three wp suspended machines and each relatively quicky built excessive airpressure as compared to jap bikes I've had and too much pressure makes an enormous difference in the front end of these imo.

Bushie, High or Low speed to keep the rear up. I'd suggest Low speed, remembering that 'speed' here is the speed of travel of the shaft. Its a bit of a bandaid though, as it'll compromise something else, like bump absorption.

Click to expand...

yep both comps work and are teeney lil bandaids,hardly worth me mentioning someone may benefit though. dunno why HSC is recommended by some tuners for ride height, penske says LSC first too, then HSC. thinking ahead depending on which speed you want to compromise and the shaft speed at which the ride height adjustement is required one could choose. but thats not real important. some people soften the Bv too , all works but not as much as mechanical geometry changes.


hijacked yes
sorry madpugs