keeping water from wheel bearings

No idea how to stop water from getting in the stock bearings, but when you replace them....don't get the stock ones or All Balls or Moose. Get the actual bearing number or sizes and get a quality SKF, NTN, or other Japanes bearing. Ask for the 2RS version (double rubber sealed). These are sealed both sides right from the factory. I have done this on all my previous bikes and the bearings last way loner than the stockers in the same riding conditions.

I will do some research later and see if I can find the bearing numbers for you.

edit. I think the rear is a 6005 2RS and the front is a 6204 2RS.

I know this will sound a litte off, but I have done this trick for years and it works
Reverse your seals PUT the spring side of the seal facing out.
This will keep the cold water from going into the warm bearings and hub
On KTM and Husaberg make sure the seal lip does not contact the edge of the wheel spacer
Use a white grease and you will see after a few month of riding the grease is still white, NOT comtaminated with water and dirt which will turn the grease grey. Try this before saying this is nuts cann't work!!

For the rear knock out the spacer fill the whole cavity between the seal and the bearing with water proof grease then reinstall the spacer, same for the front.
Its simple If you give the water no empty space to go it wont find a way in.
ORANGEBERG

This might do the trick:




http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DuPont-Kryt...744?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6240e2f8

There are now wheel spacers available that have an internal O ring that seal between axle and spacer- when I find the link I'll post it up

My rear wheel bearings are had again. They were All Balls and we put grease inside them at the shop.

F+ said:

My rear wheel bearings are had again. They were All Balls and we put grease inside them at the shop.

Click to expand...

pistolpete77 said:

No idea how to stop water from getting in the stock bearings, but when you replace them....don't get the stock ones or All Balls or Moose. Get the actual bearing number or sizes and get a quality SKF, NTN, or other Japanes bearing. Ask for the 2RS version (double rubber sealed). These are sealed both sides right from the factory. I have done this on all my previous bikes and the bearings last way loner than the stockers in the same riding conditions.

I will do some research later and see if I can find the bearing numbers for you.

edit. I think the rear is a 6005 2RS and the front is a 6204 2RS.

Click to expand...

I've had to replace 3 sets of wheel bearings total on 3 KTM's and a Berg in 10 years. I had an 09 EC450 Gasser that ate sets of wheel bearings in the 18 months I had the bike. Perhaps the difference was the wheel spacers I was using. All the KTM's/Berg were/are fitted with aftermarket spacers with the stainless steel wear ring on them. The Gasser was fitted with the "cheesy" OEM aluminium spacers that had deep grooves worn in them by the seals. :bounce3:

Hi!
In my FE501 I used IR (interal ring) from needle bearing. I have bought cheapest needle bearings and use only internal ring (chinese needle bearing is cheaper than only internal ring made by eg.NTN).
I have to fitt the height of IRs on magnetic grinder (low cost).
Previouslly I have to replace front bearings (***)after 2 mounths of riding (only at weekend) now I'm using cheapest chinese bearing in front wheel for about 4 mounths without problems............

Internal rings are tough and seal are racing on that surface very nice. Also I don't have any problems with rust.

Seal it and ride without problems!!!

Damian

On my KTM, I went through thre sets of rear bearings before I finally switched out the whole spacer tube, seals, axle spacer and bearings with the MSR kit for these bikes. So far, I've had no more trouble. MSR advertises that the bearings in their kits are 35% larger and stronger than the stock units. They are wider, thus the need for all new spacers. The kit was pretty reasonable too. Good luck.

brian011952 said:

On my KTM, I went through thre sets of rear bearings before I finally switched out the whole spacer tube, seals, axle spacer and bearings with the MSR kit for these bikes. So far, I've had no more trouble. MSR advertises that the bearings in their kits are 35% larger and stronger than the stock units. They are wider, thus the need for all new spacers. The kit was pretty reasonable too. Good luck.

Click to expand...

I have fitted similar kit from All Balls to a friends KTM and agree the the bigger bearing would be better but the are a few other things to consider. When this upgrade is fitted the original bearing retaining circlip is discarded because the new bigger bearing is wider, this circlip is what locates the hub in the correct position. With the original system this bearing is retained with the circlip and the spacer sets the position of the other bearing, the spacer is wider than the distance between the 2 bearing bores to ensure that when the rear axle is tightened the bearing pull up tight onto the inner bearings races , center spacer and outer spacers. Because of this the bearing bore depths are not a critical dimension. The updrade kit i fitted the inner spacer was 2-3mm longer than the distance between the bearing bores enabling the hub to float that 2-3mm when all tightened up. this is not noticeable if the bearings are a firm fit in the hub but will wear and move around more. Other things to consider are the original spacers go through the bearings and into the middle spacer so when all assemble the parts remain aligned and allow the axle to easily be fitted when refitting the back wheel, with the "larger bearing upgrade kit" the inner spacer i loose to move around inside the hub and can be difficult to align and the outer spacers are only held inplace with the seals and can drop out when refitting the rear wheel. I have had the thought to put o-rings inside the out spacers so to seal onto the axle but don't want the axle to be difficult to fit or remove.
More facts to concider is that the engineers that designed the wheel/bike have a much more sophisticated engineering department than the aftermarket kit manufacturer's, was done that way for a reason and has been this way for at-least 10 years . Note taken that making the original spacers from aluminium where the seal runs is not ideal.
On my own FE570 i fitted the BRC spacers with the S/Steel seal runner and quality Jap bearings and seals and don't have problems. To purchase the bearings and seals from a bearing shop costs about $20 so i replace them everytime i replace chains and sprockets so i know i wont have wheel bearing issues. This is the maintenance practice i have maintained my whole riding life 35 + years and have never had a breakdown related wheel bearings.


Wally