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just bought husaberg 2005

H

husaberg-newbie

Joined Apr 2008
16 Posts | 0+
belgium
hi, i am from belgium and new on this site.
i just bought a husaberg fe 450 2005.
wich oil should i choose? the seller said i should use 5w50, but is 10w50 still ok?
i use the bike for enduro so how many hours for oil change?
what is the oil capacity of my bike? 1l?

thanx! :p
 
husaberg-newbie said:
hi, i am from belgium and new on this site.
i just bought a husaberg fe 450 2005.
wich oil should i choose? the seller said i should use 5w50, but is 10w50 still ok?
i use the bike for enduro so how many hours for oil change?
what is the oil capacity of my bike? 1l?

thanx! :p
Click to expand...

Hi Newbie,

Welcome to the site, as you have probably read already there is a wealth of information on here that can save you a lot of time and money.
Regarding the oil a well hammered subject, every body seems to have own preference I my self use Silkelene Pro4 this is a 15 50 and has served me well on all different types of motor cycles engines over the last 25 years with no mechanical failures, but any of the top oil manufactures will work OK. 10/40 10/50 15/50.
Oil change interval as frequent as you like 5 10 hours.
Quantity 1 Liter but some people 900ml.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Welcome Newbie,

Concerning your oil level.............

Check my gallery on page I think for the technical bulletin that came from the Factory.

An important technique when changing your oil: After removing the oil drain bolt and letting the oil drain, lean the bike over to the right side to get more of the oil out for a few minutes. Then lean the bike over to the left, hold the kill button down, and pull the compression release in and kick the bike over 15 or 20 times. This will force the remaining oil under the crank past the reed valve.

The what I do is lean the bike back over to the right, you will be surprised at how much more oil comes out. Now pull the oil filter screen out and let the oil drain over night if possible.

Clean the oil filter screen with some contact clean and low pressure air. Put a little bit of grease on the O rings of the filter screen and the threads of the cap screw, re install and torque to 11 ft.lbs. Do not over tighten! 11ft lbs is plenty. Clean drain plug with contact cleaner and put some grease on the threads and torque to 14 ft lbs.

900 ml's of oil should be about right if you drain the oil this way, but, work up to it so you don't have to try and pull some oil back out.

Hope this helps,

Dale

P.S. I run Motul 15W/50, and have for the last 12 years in my berg's with good success. I change the oil very frequently, hardly ever letting the oil come out black.
 
hi,
i have another question, i noticed that i can't give full trothle at one time. it falls away when i do it. it's probably the carburettor but how can i ajust it? another jet? or can i ajust the air screw on the carburettor?
 
adjust the tiny screw UNDER the carb. probably out (anti-clockwise) by as much as a full turn. if this isn't it i'd clean out the carb and start again! dirt and muck have the same effect.

regards

Taffy
 
does anyone has the owner manual of the 2005 model?, i want to know how many newtons i have to put on the screws of my engine, because i have to check my clutch.
 
husaberg-newbie said:
does anyone has the owner manual of the 2005 model?, i want to know how many newtons i have to put on the screws of my engine, because i have to check my clutch.
Click to expand...

Husaberg repair manuals/spare parts manuals are available at the factory website, which is www.husaberg .se
 
if you turn out the tiny screw, does it mean more fuel or more air?
Click to expand...
more fuel. the screw meters the fuel picked up by the pilot system.
 
hi, another problem..
my engine was leaking oil on the left side, so i had to replace the paper thing( i dunno the name in english) when i opened the left side i heard a ''click'' so i asumed the spring of the kickstarter had come out. so i took of the clutch to reach the kickstarter, i put the kickstarter back in and i put some tension on it like it is descirbed, and then i assembled everyting. when i assembled my clutch i heard the same ''click'', but i just went on assembeling. when the engine was closed, the kickstarter couldnt move, also when i puch my electric start, the engine doesn't move...
does anyone no wath this could be?

thanx!
 
your spring has come uncoiled again! you must try and do this with the bike laying on it's side - or at least partially!

and the paper thing is called a "gasket".

regards

Taffy
 
You'll find the answer in the owner's doc in the main menu of the UHE homepage.
Go to classification #17.1 (engine rebuild)
Scroll down to kickstart fitment. Yes, you'll have to remove your clutch cover again.

log
 
husaberg-newbie said:
yes, i have the owners manual and i mounted it like it was said, but afterwards i seemed wrong...
Click to expand...

I think you misunderstood me h-n. I'm talking about the "Owner's Doc!", not your manual.

Look at the main menu to the left on this website.
8th item down is the Owner's Doc!
In the Owner's Doc! go to classification #17.1 (engine rebuild)
Scroll down to kickstart fitment. It actually mentions the diagram in the part's manual is wrong.

log
 
Hold the kickstarter shaft down in place when handling the cover (do not let the shaft move upward out of the center case). If the kickstarter shaft lifts up, the spring will rotate it and the pawl will dislodge. You will not get the cover seated unless the kickstart shaft is correct. You should see about a 2mm gap between the clutch basket and kickstarter gear when the kickstarter shaft is properly seated.
 

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