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Jetting Husaberg 650 Akrapovic Titanium HELP

Joined Dec 2010
4 Posts | 0+
Hello to everybody I Am the founder of Husaberg Italian Forum .
I need help.
What tipe of jetting do you have on yours Kehin FCR mx 41 ??
I have main jet 178... but maybe it still small. I am 679 feet from sea lever. Thank you.
 
What year 650?
I have a fs650 2004 and run a 160 or 165 main but not sure how far above sea level i am hope thats a help. I also have ti system akro. Regards Glenn
 
I run a 180 main and a 45 pilot and the needle 3rd from top, i have run a Yamaha needle before at Finke desert race but im not sure of the number, the dealer in Alice Springs dyno tested my bike and fitted it. It ran good at the high speed.
John ORANGEBERG
 
Thank you very much to everybody. My Husaberg is a 2008 FS so it fits keihin fcr mx 41. i have 178 mainjet and 45 pilot now i want to see the needle settage.
 
hello,
for full titanium akro:

SILENCER ON:
160 main
45 pilot
OBEKR NEEDLE 2 position from top.

SILENCER OFF:
just move the needle clip
below 20celcius : 5 position from top
above 20 celcius : 4 position from top

race tested from sea level to 200m altitude
 
I have the following jetting fs650 04
55 pilot
165 main
obekr 3rd clip from top
air screw 2 and 1/2 to 3 turns out.
 
Bike is 2004 fs650.
My actual spec is:
stock headers
rino slipon
main jet 178

Needle and pilot are stock.

Earlier I had stock 160 main jet.

AFR is too rich right now in mid and high rpms...

Shoud I change main jet to smaller one - what size would You suggest?
Or maybe play with the needle settings?
I am around 260m over sea level.
Todays dyno run
2urkn45.jpg
 
Last edited:
I would try a 160 or 165 MJ and 165 main air jet stock main air jet is 200

160 was lean probably at mid and high rpm ?

so the smaller main air jet makes the fuel curve nicer for the 160 main jet with increasing rpm.

also check if you have the EKR "stock" needle or the DVT "stock" needle, EKR is better IMHO
 
my full spec now is:
needle: OBEKR
idling jet: 45
main jet: 178
main air jet: 200
idle air jet: 100
needle position: 6
starting jet: 85

Earlier I didn't have place to plug o2 sensor, so can't really say if it was lean or not...

So You're suggesting to try:
165 main air jet
with
160 main jet

or better would be:
165 main air jet
with
165 main jet

?

Thanks for Your commitment ;)

P.S.
I kinda like those backfires but if I can have few extra horses instead I can live without them.
 
yes something like that

Im not going to say for sure which jets you need because I think you are the only person able to make that decision :)

you could for example increase the size of the MAJ to see if it leans out at mid and high rpm.. that may be a better way to go ... or just leave it... rich at high RPM isn't a bad idea IMHO

this is the best info I have found on describing what the air jet does.

airjet.gif

This graph is 100% a figment of my fevered imagination, and is only to be used as a general guide, not an absolute definitive end all be all word of truth. That said..

1. air jet way too small
2. air jet a little bit too small
3. air jet just right
4. air jet a little bit too big
5. air jet way too big

So basically what happens is if you have the mixture right at low rpm, and it's too rich at high rpm, the air jet is too small and you need a bigger one. Or if you have it just right at high rpm and it's too lean at low rpm, you have an air jet that's too small and you need a bigger one. Or if you have the mixture just right at low rpm and it's too lean at high rpm, the air jet is too big and you need a smaller one. Do I really need to type the fourth combination? When you put in a bigger air jet, it leans things out everywhere, but more at higher engine speeds. And when you put in a smaller air jet, it richens things up everywhere, but more at higher engine speeds. Then when you get the right air jet, it might be too rich or too lean everywhere, so now you have to go and put in a smaller or bigger fuel jet to fix things up again. So you control the shape of the graph with the air jet, and move it up and down with the fuel jet. The same thing is supposed to apply when working with the main air jet and main fuel jet, but it doesn't on FCRs, for reasons which I'll get into further down. But it's supposed to, damn it.

If you find that the engine runs perfectly at WOT near the torque peak, but becomes lean toward redline, select smaller main air jets. Conversely, if the engine runs perfectly near the torque peak but richens toward redline, select larger main air jets. Changes in air jets may require changing the main fuel jet. Say you have good performance at engine speeds leading to the torque peak under wide open throttle with a 150 main fuel jet and 200 main air jet. Should you need to richen the mixture at full revs and full throttle and select a 180 main air jet, you may need to go down to a 145 or 140 main fuel jet to keep the lower rpm mixture the same as with the 150/200 combination. Generally (there are always exceptions), once the main air jets are properly selected for the intended application, they need not be changed again unless you change the intake restriction (modify the airbox or use different filter) or change engine or exhaust specification. Varying atmospheric conditions can usually be dealt with by fuel jet, fuel screw, and needle changes.

he goes on to say that in his experience regardless of A/F ratio the most power from a given engine is usually made with a big Main Air Jet so I guess aim for getting it right with as big as possible


carbkie.html, Keihin FCR Carb Tuning Procedures
 
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