JD jetting kit

mine used to do that, accel pump duration way too long to chompensate for screwy jetting. lots of lil dribbles at low rpm from small throttle movements would flood my engine.

even with a 175 main the bike would go lean at high rpm after the accel pump stopped squirting. the problem was that the #200 MAJ was too big and let too much air into the mix at high rpm.

I would reduce pump duration (see steves gallery or the doc) and use a 160MAJ with a 165 main to be safe and see if you can come down from there you should have an EKR needle stock or the dvt maybe, I prefered the EKR its all in the DOC with the exeception of the MAJ which is explained but not included with the other jetting suggestions.

its the Main Air Jet explained a little further here

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbkei.html

turning off the pump and going straight to somwhere between 155 and 165 MAJ will make things easier to undertsand.

no need for a JD kit I think. there is a dyno graph in lineaweavers gallery of one of the JD needles

husapye said:

Just wondering if anyone has installed the James Dean jetting(Husaberg) kit for the 04-08 bike. Do mainly trail riding and looking for more low speed control an tight single track. My Fe 450 does cough/stop stalls at low reves. Thought the JD kit could be the medicine.

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You need to tell us where you're from, altitude etc...

I tried the JD kit and it made really good smooth power, albeit a little milque toast.

There is a lot of info in the fuel section on this site. Several different ways to go. I went with Buzzard's $40 spruce up thread and it has worked out well for me.

Here's my current set up on my 04 550.

Honda AP diaphragm (.75 squirt duration, you need this)
R&D AP spring.
AP gap setting at .115"
Factory Pro Emulsion Tube
Honda NCVS needle at 4th postion ( you may need 5th, and an R needle)
Adjustable Pilot air screw set at 75
Stock Main air jet
38 pilot jet ( you may need a 40)
155 main jet ( you may need a 165 to be safe)

If your bike is rich stuttering at low revs and on and off throttle try opening up the AP gap and this will delay the AP squirt. If after you have cured the stuttering problem, but now there is a bit of a hesitation try opening up the pilot screw a bit. If this does not cure the bog, then lower the clip on the needle on position and this should do it.

If you are not familiar with the FCR carb, you are about to embark on a learning curve that in the end will have your bike running great, and you will understand how it all works together.

Best of luck

Re: RE: Re: JD jetting kit

husapye said:

Highly appreciate the feedback,Yea I'm on a big learning curve but unlike other makes i owned this bike is really worth and pays dividends

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Hi Husapye
if youre going to spend the money spend it on one of taffys jet kits i previously had a jd jet kit installed in my 08 fe650 and changed to taffys jet kit and it has done wonders to the bike it runs sweet as now plus i restricted accel pump as steves forum to about 1 sec squirt duration hope this helps
cheers aquajett

RE: Re: RE: Re: JD jetting kit

I have gone to a 42 pilot, and 182 Main (!). I have a slip on akropovic. standard needle, with clip 6 from the top. This works, but if I wanted more performance I would be looking at the AP as above, but try this jetting first and you may be happy with that?

We also need to know what year your bike is, it makes a difference.

we had lineaweaver leave a dyno graph here with the results of his jetting and JD jetting. unfortunately there wasn't just a void between the two it was more like a chasm. i used to know JD really well. he got his nickname from me and i am grateful to him for insight into codes etc.

But much of his support is based purely on him being an american and (so it seems to me) little else. right from the start his jetting was rich but he received mystic god status from those buying bling and swearing to gods it was miles better when it patently wasn't.

but his needle codes are deliberately unfathomable which means that you get no support outside of the auburn stables. not much good in the woods of wales half way up a root strewn slope with a stalling bike.

lineaweaver made the best needle. it had the perfect taper. the only problem was that it was woefully rich at low revs. sparks couldn't even keep his bike running that's how bad at 0-5mph it was. luckily that area has been a speciality for me. the needles i work with are single taper and not home made. so although they're a slight compromise between bottom and top they are precision pieces where as even dale would admit his were a bit 'rough' due to the hand lathe work.

there is virtually no compromise for the R & T riders with my kit unless you've seen a sumo rider trying to do 3mph over a slippery kerb stone or jumping a tennis ball at 3mph! the trail riders are missing a bit of zap in 5th and 6th gear which would be handy.

i have designed and even had a needle that is to MY design (not a copy) in my bike for 9 months but have done very little testing with it. it has a triple taper and if i ever get mine back together again and can confirm it's as good as, if not better than dale's (higher up) then i will be ready for production. business is luckily vibrant so the day may come soon when i can afford 400 needles to be purchased and machined to micron specification.

trouble is, by then, we'll all be old and grey! LOL!!!

regards

Taffy

Hi there I am new to the forum. I sold my YZ 450 F for a 2008 FE 550. Its a great bike but I am having the same thing as Husapye. How far above sea level are you Husapye ? I'm at 310 m. I got hosed by a 08 CRF 450 :evil: the other day and I'm not impressed even the difference between my mates FE 650 is massive. Any idea why the main jet is so rich ?

husapye said:

Just inserted Taffys jetting kit.Also reduced the squirt on the AP.The result is dramatic.The bike fired first hit, and started the 'Im too rich and ready to party, bark'
after only 10 seconds.
Large noticable increase in bottom end torque through all gears, smooth roll-on power through mid to top,and an increase in top-end speed.The feel is as though the bike was sick and now is well. Thanks Taffy well done mate!

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wow! husapye! can i use that quote!

do let me know how you get on with the smaller PJ in the woods. you'll love that to!

regards

Taffy

Any idea why the main jet is so rich ?

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because the stock MAJ is too big (#200) I changed it a few times and liked a #160

with a better fuel curve you can use smaller main jets without going lean at high rpm.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbkei.html

Had a look at the doc and a few other forums in the fuel section, had a real good look at that link bushmechanic ( thanks mate ) put up got keen as to try some stuff out but had to go back to work. Finally got back from work after a month ( Taffy's jet kit had beat me home) went for a ride to bet a base line. Took the carb off and found this under the clamp.....

So the carb is off and the jets were;
Pilot screw 2 1/8 out # 40 jet
182 main
OVDR 4th clip.
It was a ***** to start so I guess that was an effect of that split boot and also backfires really bad but I guess that split wolud make it run lean on back-off. Midrange is decent but top end was still woefull the snap wheelie test was so so as sharp throttle openings yeilded a bog ( pump duration ?). Hopefully have the part tomorrow and have a go.

that will make quite a difference but your jetting is still shyte!

regards

Taffy

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhh YYEEEEEEEEEAH !!! Taffy you are the bomb! Got the part today. Took a gamble and fitted the jets ( 165 main 38 pilot and the supplied pilot screw and jet and needle) and limtited the pump duration. Straight up it starts easy as, the backfiring on back-off has COMPLETEY vanished. I settled on 1 3/4 turns on the pilot screw. Bottom end is sharp and crisp, midrange is maybe a little better but the transition into top end is smoother ( as in it keeps pulling ) Top end is noticably stronger, 5th is like a new 4th and at extended hi rpm there was no noticeable heat build up . I would like to beef up the mid range a little so I will raise the clip one slot or maybe go for the 160 main and leave the needle alone. Does this sound right ?

berglsmerg said:

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhh YYEEEEEEEEEAH !!! Taffy you are the bomb! Got the part today. Took a gamble and fitted the jets ( 165 main 38 pilot and the supplied pilot screw and jet and needle) and limtited the pump duration. Straight up it starts easy as, the backfiring on back-off has COMPLETEY vanished. I settled on 1 3/4 turns on the pilot screw. Bottom end is sharp and crisp, midrange is maybe a little better but the transition into top end is smoother ( as in it keeps pulling ) Top end is noticably stronger, 5th is like a new 4th and at extended hi rpm there was no noticeable heat build up . I would like to beef up the mid range a little so I will raise the clip one slot or maybe go for the 160 main and leave the needle alone. Does this sound right ?

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you should try the 160 main and only worry about your top end power. if it's flat then go back. if you have the R&T kit you can fit a blanked little jet i supplied. then try the needle clip in the above and below clip position.

PS. i don't have many customers tell all! glad i ground off the needle codes now.

regards

Taffy

Those rubber carbi connectors on the 450 seem to be a problem. The ones on the bigger bikes seem ok. Has anyone else noticed this and is there are fix?