Hey guys just changed the water pump seal on my Berg and now I need to clean the inside of my motor to take the contaminated oil out. I have put about 5lts of oil inside to flush it out and there still seams to be a lot in there. Any tricks?
Internal engine cleaning
- Thread starter Full-onbikes
- Start date
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
try methylated spririts
to test for water soak a paper towel in the oil then burn it, if thereis water in the oil it will pop and hiss as it burns
to test for water soak a paper towel in the oil then burn it, if thereis water in the oil it will pop and hiss as it burns
as taffy says. you can get a specific engine flush forte do a good one
http://www.motorspeed.com/store_main.as ... ct_id=3980
http://www.motorspeed.com/store_main.as ... ct_id=3980
Always wondered about the effects the small amount of flush that gets trapped in the motor has on the next lot of oil put into said motor.
maybe 150mls of fluid left in motor after draining?
As long as the detergent doesn't break down the oil, then should be ok....... But, what do we use to clean the grease and oil off our dishes?
allways been susspect of engine flushing agents...... although I am sure I am about to be enlightend.
maybe 150mls of fluid left in motor after draining?
As long as the detergent doesn't break down the oil, then should be ok....... But, what do we use to clean the grease and oil off our dishes?
allways been susspect of engine flushing agents...... although I am sure I am about to be enlightend.
Get yourself to your local supermarket and buy 5 litres of the cheapest motorcycle oil you can find.
Tip it in, run the bike for a few minutes, drain it out - repeat until no more milky oil emerges. Then drain, change the filter and fill up with good stuff.
Greg
Tip it in, run the bike for a few minutes, drain it out - repeat until no more milky oil emerges. Then drain, change the filter and fill up with good stuff.
Greg
Forget flushing oils. Use a diesel engine oil. They have a higher detergency than petrol engine specific oils and far better lubrication qualities than flushing oil so it's no big deal if any gets left in there. I've used this method on cars and bikes to good effect.
Um, sorta dunn that myself in the past pegscraper, with a twist.
Drop the running in oil after the first hour then run sum diesel oil thru to flush any extra bits out then attack with Motul.
sum fellas on this site never put the good oil in, they keep running diesel oil for hundreds of hours.
Drop the running in oil after the first hour then run sum diesel oil thru to flush any extra bits out then attack with Motul.
sum fellas on this site never put the good oil in, they keep running diesel oil for hundreds of hours.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Hey bushbro.... I see you like to empty your crank of oil at change time (was amazed how much oil the crank acctually holds when I rebuilt mine and pre-primed it on the bench), do you then reprime (kick it over several times) to refill galleries before fire up?
One of my mates likes to spin his car over an over to pump the extra oil out, but then he would refill and start right up. seemed wrong to me.
Especially when I pointed out the manual stated there was a 600ml difference in quantity between oil/filter change and a dry fill (from rebuilt).
One of my mates likes to spin his car over an over to pump the extra oil out, but then he would refill and start right up. seemed wrong to me.
Especially when I pointed out the manual stated there was a 600ml difference in quantity between oil/filter change and a dry fill (from rebuilt).
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
yes I do the same drop the oil drain it 20-30 kicks drain some more wait 15 min kick it again then fill it with 1.2L of oil and another 20 kicks to prime it
Sounds like a great job for a jug of Rotella "T".
Although marketed for diesels, Rotella is a "universal" oil. Lots of guys (me included) run it all the time in their bikes.
Although marketed for diesels, Rotella is a "universal" oil. Lots of guys (me included) run it all the time in their bikes.
thanks for the advise guys I will try it out and see how it goes. Will let you know later this week
Ok so changed the water pump seal. Flushed the crap out of the motor with oil and cleaners. Seemed to had got it clean. Did a little test ride around the block and the oil came out like a milkshake again. But got about 1.1lts out so I was not very concerned. Did an other oil change and got the same thing. Is there anywhere else that could be leaking coolant. It does not smoke and the plug is a good color. Tons of power but still worries about the milkshake oil and possibly a little coolant leak. Help please. I am out of ideas short of pulling the motor apart.
Hi all,
I recently thought my head gasket had gone (due to milky oil), but it turns out that the water pump seal was shagged. I've now changed that (and the water pump O ring for good measure), and'll give the diesel oil flushing method a try, and let you guys know how it goes.
Hopefully I've not damaged the seal on installation, but I guess that I'd see fluid leaking out of the weep hole if it was?
As always cheers to everyone that gives advice - I'd truly be stuck without this forum!
Martin
I recently thought my head gasket had gone (due to milky oil), but it turns out that the water pump seal was shagged. I've now changed that (and the water pump O ring for good measure), and'll give the diesel oil flushing method a try, and let you guys know how it goes.
Hopefully I've not damaged the seal on installation, but I guess that I'd see fluid leaking out of the weep hole if it was?
As always cheers to everyone that gives advice - I'd truly be stuck without this forum!
Martin
Duken4evr said:
That's all I've used. It also has the JASO rating for motorcycles.
My buddy has been around pros for a good many years. He says that their oil jugs might say Silkolene or Lucas due to sponsors, but the rider has already dumped it out and put Rotella T in the jugs!
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